inverter/charger or just inverter

[bdawson11]

I am planning to install a xantrex prosine 2000 watt inverter/ charger.
But would it be better to install just the inverter and then install a seperate battery charger. I currently use a converter/ charger. Thanks for your input.

[GaryKD]

Hi bdawson11,
I feel it is more about how your coach is wired and personal preference. If your coach is currently wired for the inverter/charger appliance, for me I'd install another inverter/charger.

For you to install a separate charger:
1. is an additional appliance
2. takes additional space
3. may take additional wiring and fuse protection

I'm not sure if there are any advantages to having two appliances. My coach has a separate inverter and charger. This is the way it came from the factory.

[hdossett]

Originally Posted by bdawson11

I am planning to install a xantrex prosine 2000 watt inverter/ charger.
But would it be better to install just the inverter and then install a seperate battery charger. I currently use a converter/ charger. Thanks for your input.

b,

I installed a Xantrex Freedom 458 with charger and later added a remote control/monitor, and removed my converter/charger.

You have to install everything anyway. The charger is built in. No need for the converter/charger.

Harold

[bdawson11]

If I install a new Inverter/charger wont I still need a converter to convert 120 to 12v for what ever runs on 12v which im not sure of.
BTW I have a 2003 HR neptune pusher.

[Gary RVRoamer]

No, an integrated inverter/charger like the Prosine fulfills both functions. The charger function is the "converter" too.

But if you already have a good quality 3-stage converter/charger in the coach, you can save a lot of bucks by just installing a standalone inverter. It takes up a bit more space, but not a bunch.

In either case, your major chore will be rewiring the coach 120v circuits so that some or all can be supplied from the inverter as well as the main load center (which handles shore and generator power). This is slightly easier to do with a unit like the Prosine because it also contains a built-in power transfer switch to shift the power source to the inverter when appropriate. If you use a standalone inverter, you have to provide your own transfer switch. You cab buy one or make your own with double pole double throw switches.

[wa8yxm]

Would it be better to use a seperate inverter and converter or just use the Prosine.

Two thoughts

1: Should your prosine malfunction: Till the replacement arrives you won't have a converter (You can pick up a portable charger to use in the interm if you wish) thus seperates have the advantage of if one half fails the other half, still works.. However

2: I have searched, and searched and the two best (for different reasons) converters I"ve found are the Xantrex Prosine 2.0 (I assume the entire prosine line is as good but I've not compared the rest of 'em) and the Progressive Dynamics units with the charge Wizard.

In short. you got the best, forget the rest Go with the Prosine as the converter

(IN fairness to other companies.. There are several "Best" The two mentioned are the ones I have)

If you wish, (Belt and suspenders theory) you might pick up a small converter, say a 30 amp or so. Just in case the prosine fails. But frankly.. I'd not bother

[bdawson11]

My research has lead me to the Prosine 2.0 which I will go with. I'll save my converter as a backup. These forums are a great resource for novices such as myself.
Thanks for the input that all of you take time to do.

[shastaron]

Could you let us know how the conversion goes. I am looking at going the same route and would be interested in how it goes. Are you doing the work or having someone install. Pictures of the final install would be great.

Thanks,

[wa8yxm]

I had camping world do the initial install and then I fixed what they messed up (Can you believe they can not count to TWO there, oh well)

In my case.. The put the Prosine in the basement next compartment over from the batteries (Same place I'd have put it) ran heavy (not heavy enough) cable to the batteries and 10ga to the power distribution (120 volt) panel

They moved the GFCI loop, the Microwave and the Televisions etc to a new "Sub panel" they hid in a cabinet .. Ran 10GA to that too. put a 30 amp breaker in the main box to feed the prosine. and simply unplugged the Progressive Dynamics coverter I over paid them... They moved a few things in the mains box and put both my Air Conditioners on the same leg (That is what I had to fix) I re-balanced loads later.

I also added a 2nd AGM battery bank later. This bank of batteries has larger cable and via switches I can connect the prosine to one, the other, or both banks as needed.

One advantage of keeping your original converter.... I have been in a park with marginal power. Now my original converter is more or less forgiving of marginal power (most are in fact now days) but the Microwave, and other electronics are not

I closed the proper switch, tripped the 30 amp breaker that feeds the prosine manually and .... set it up as a "power Line Conditioner" I can only draw (Sustained) around 600 watts that way (Given the limits of my converter) but.....

It worked

[bdawson11]

At this time I plan on doing the work myself, after looking at a few more diagrams to build some confidence. Heading to Branson, MO in July so I need to get gong on this project Have found a local supplier with good prices on the Prosine 2.0. I'll keep you posted.

[wa8yxm]

When searching for Prosine prices do not overlook the refurb store at Xantrex.

If you happen near Michigan I might be able to assist, plus if you park next to me you can look at my install for ideas.. I have a prosine 2.0