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Old 10-09-2013, 06:17 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mel stuplich View Post
vsheetz
.......That's an easy common sense way to power many/all low amp 120VAC items when the RV has no shore, (or genset), power!
IMO, far to many owners over-think and complicate things, (and often overlook the simple economical solution to a problem).
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Like I said, both TVs and the Sat box *all* plug in in different locations in the coach. If they all plugged in at one spot, then sure I would just get a small inverter and use it right there.

Since that's not the case, I think plugging the shore power cord into the inverter makes the simplest solution, so long of course we do not use the micro, a/c, hair dryer, pressure cooker, etc.

I would love to run a separate line from inverter back to the ac breakers and just have the receptacles-only receive inverter power, but I was just outside in and under the coach for an hour trying to figure out a way to run this wire from the front-battery/inverter area all the way to the rear bed/converter/breaker area. It would not be easy!! Would involve lots of drilling holes and routing.... Beyond my skills and time allowance. Would have gladly paid another grand to Thor for the option of a factory inverter!!!!!
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Old 10-09-2013, 06:19 PM   #30
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Another question - see pic - instead of purchasing and installing a high quality fuse between inverter and battery, could i just connect the inverter positive cable to this post that is right after the high quality fuse already installed in there??
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Old 10-09-2013, 08:34 PM   #31
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Another question - see pic - instead of purchasing and installing a high quality fuse between inverter and battery, could i just connect the inverter positive cable to this post that is right after the high quality fuse already installed in there??
Yep! Using a protective fuse or breaker on the 12VDC side is just smart and the factory module is already big enough for the expected whole-house load...will easily handle the 1000W inverter.

And, BTW that is a breaker, not a fuse. If for some reason, you exceeded the load rating for that breaker. You could simply reset it by moving the lever seen in the center of the black block.

Glad to see that you are coming back to your original plan after the distractions.

For one of the alternatives offered, tapping into the breaker panel is fine if you want to make a major modification to the electrical system... ...because chances are that your TV's and SAT are not on the same breaker circuit. The outside TV is probably on the GFI protected circuit due to risk or exposure to water or wet hands of the user.

And, installing individual point use or single purpose inverters would require a much longer 12VDC lead vs. the 110VAC...this is exactly opposite of mfgt recommendations. This is because AC can travel much longer distances than DC without voltage drop.

Finally, transfer switches are wonderful things...until they freeze or stop working for whatever reason. Just do an iRV2 search for "transfer switch" to see all the problems people have had.

I say "keep it simple"...your original plan sounds great!

Best luck!

P.S. Just looked at the 34.1 floor plan - Bath and a half!!! Sweet!!
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Old 10-09-2013, 08:49 PM   #32
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I agree that powering the whole coach is a good way to go. In my comments I did not mean to say it was not, I was just trying to show how one could expand on the one inverter method. One large inverter was all I had for some time and it was perfectly serviceable. I added the individual point of use inverters as an adjunct, not a replacement, for the whole house inverter. They allow us to further reduce the battery consumption.
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Old 10-09-2013, 08:53 PM   #33
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i would get the high quality fuse keep in mind your going 12v dc

so 10 amps AC is all most 30 amps DC

find out what the max apms output AC is on the inverter you are getting and most of the time x by 3 or look at that the inverter calls for

dont start a fire inverter well pull some amps

so no games on wiring or fuses
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Old 10-09-2013, 08:55 PM   #34
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i would get the high quality fuse keep in mind your going 12v dc

so 10 amps AC is all most 30 amps DC

find out what the max apms output AC is on the inverter you are getting and most of the time x by 3 or look at that the inverter calls for

dont start a fire inverter well pull some amps

so no games on wiring or fuses
Am not trying to forego the fuse, was just seeing if I could utilize existing 100 amp breaker that's 10" off the battery already...
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Old 10-13-2013, 05:24 PM   #35
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Got the inverter hooked up last week and used it this weekend for the first time! Worked great. I ended up mounting it in the adjacent compartment to the battery and still had a very short run to the batteries. Powered my tv's, sat box, and lights for many hours of quiet, generator-free enjoyment. Next up is to install the remote on/off switch for the inverter and a voltmeter display somewhere inside the couch. I'm hesitant drilling holes in the floor, how have others ran a wire from the basement up to the inside?
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Old 10-13-2013, 05:44 PM   #36
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Congrats on the trial run!

Thor uses a vacuum bonded multi-layer system for the floor (as well as the walls and roof). I have not drilled any holes in my floor for this reason.

For monitoring the house battery condition, I have been relying on the main control panel but, a volt meter is a good idea (better than the original Green, Yellow, Red lights).

For the new wire run, I would try to use an existing thru path cut in the floor at the factory that is used for something else (plumbing or power run). If the Miramar is like the Outlaw, Thor used expanding foam to seal these opening. Use a wire snake or long coat hanger to penetrate the seal - and - be sure to reseal it well.

If that just doesn't work, then just make a hole where needed and seal it well...consider bugs, moisture, and temperature loss when sealing.

Best luck!
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Old 10-13-2013, 05:48 PM   #37
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Congrats on the trial run!

Thor uses a vacuum bonded multi-layer system for the floor (as well as the walls and roof). I have not drilled any holes in my floor for this reason.

For monitoring the house battery condition, I have been relying on the main control panel but, a volt meter is a good idea (better than the original Green, Yellow, Red lights).

For the new wire run, I would try to use an existing thru path cut in the floor at the factory that is used for something else (plumbing or power run). If the Miramar is like the Outlaw, Thor used expanding foam to seal these opening. Use a wire snake or long coat hanger to penetrate the seal - and - be sure to reseal it well.

If that just doesn't work, then just make a hole where needed and seal it well...consider bugs, moisture, and temperature loss when sealing.

Best luck!
good idea, I did notice the expanding foam used in lots of areas. What would you think is best to reseal with? Some kind of expanding foam or just silicone?
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Old 10-13-2013, 05:59 PM   #38
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good idea, I did notice the expanding foam used in lots of areas. What would you think is best to reseal with? Some kind of expanding foam or just silicone?
Depends on the size hole you need to fill. If you cut away the OEM foam, then new foam would probably be a good idea. A small hole only needs a small seal.
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Old 10-13-2013, 06:12 PM   #39
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I drilled a hole that was about the size of a pencil or less right at the baseboard of my bedroom floor which is directly above my battery compartment. The carpeting makes it almost impossible to find the hole, just pushed some butyl tape up around the wire. I did not install the remote switch that came with the inverter, I installed the trimetric battery meter.

I simply go out side to turn on the inverter, and at the same time shut off the power strip to the converter that is in the same compartment.
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Old 10-13-2013, 06:19 PM   #40
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I use one of these as battery monitor - simple to interpret and easy to install.
Midnite Solar MNBCM Battery Capacity Meter
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Old 10-13-2013, 06:29 PM   #41
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Hi all-

Proposed Solution-
Xentrex 1000W True Sine wave inverter mounted in battery compartment. Run a shore power cable through basement compartments up to battery compartment and adapt down to the regular 15-amp plug and plug into inverter.

Questions:
-Converter inside the coach has a breaker on breaker panel labeled just "converter". I assume I can just switch this breaker off when planning to plug shore power into inverter? I'm hoping this would be the charging function of the converter???

There is one possible (probable?) problem.

I came up with the same idea for my installation. Would you like to guess how long it was before I forgot to turn off the circuit breaker for the converter? Having both the inverter and the converter on at the same time creates a very inefficient loop. The batteries run down very quickly.

For my next try, I hooked the coil of a normally closed relay to the output of the inverter. I then used the contacts to interrupt the power to the converter. Now, when the inverter turns on, the converter is switched off. I don't have to depend on remembering.

As an added feature, I hooked a red neon pilot light across the relay coil and a green neon pilot light across the converter. Now, a red light indicates that the inverter is on, while a green light indicates shore power.

Joel
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Old 10-13-2013, 06:35 PM   #42
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There is one possible (probable?) problem.

I came up with the same idea for my installation. Would you like to guess how long it was before I forgot to turn off the circuit breaker for the converter? Having both the inverter and the converter on at the same time creates a very inefficient loop. The batteries run down very quickly.

For my next try, I hooked the coil of a normally closed relay to the output of the inverter. I then used the contacts to interrupt the power to the converter. Now, when the inverter turns on, the converter is switched off. I don't have to depend on remembering.

As an added feature, I hooked a red neon pilot light across the relay coil and a green neon pilot light across the converter. Now, a red light indicates that the inverter is on, while a green light indicates shore power.

Joel
That's an amazing idea! The worst thing for me is the distance between the inverter and the converter... Converter is in the back under the bed and the inverter/battery compartment is up front.... Do you have a link to any parts you used like the relay? I'd imagine the relay itself is placed inline with the converter power cord and I'd run a small wire back to the inverter and tap into its output cord?
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