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Old 09-12-2020, 03:14 PM   #1
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Inverter problems with residential refrigerator

Hi everyone. After the Dometic refrigerator died on us this summer in our 2000 Southwind 36T. I thought it was a good time to swap to a residential refrigerator.We don't boondock. We initially put two small (3.5 & 4.0 cu.ft.) Whirlpool refrigerators and a Kinverch 1000 Watt inverter with 10ft. of #6 cable from 2 6 volt golf cart batteries in parallel. We use the inverter while in transit, works fine.
Now the tale: Bought a Whirlpool residential refrigerator, brought it into the bus, 24 inches wide, of course the door is 23 1/2 so we removed the door to get it in. This refrigerator is supposed to run at 7.2 amps so I thought the original inverter should run it, it didn't! So I bought a WZRELB RBP3000 Watt inverter, that didn't work either (I read the motor requirements it says it has a 14.5 amp. LRA or "Locked Rotor Amperage) according to my understanding that should require 1740 watts at startup at 120 volts NOPE! So I went and bought a WZRELB RBP500012S watt (with a 10000 watt surge), that should almost run a city right, wrong, I got 2/0 cables, that didn't work, shortened them to 36 inches, Nope! So tell me folks, what is wrong, the refrgerator or inverter??? HELP!!!
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Old 09-12-2020, 03:21 PM   #2
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Hi ! Welcome to IRV2! We're sure glad you joined us!

Get one of these devices to see what the fridge is doing!

Good luck, happy trails, and God bless!

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Kill-A-W...4400/202196386
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Old 09-12-2020, 04:24 PM   #3
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Plug the fridge into a extension cord, and to a known good outlet and see if it works.

The 7 amp draw is in the unlikely case that every component was on and the doors were open with a locked rotor, which happens if you start it to soon after shutting it down..

It should run on a 1000 watt Pure Sinewave inverter. Yours are pure sinewave, correct ?

Exactly what is happening when you try to run the fridge ?

You know that the 6 volt batteries need to be in series, not parallel.
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Old 09-12-2020, 05:28 PM   #4
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LRA is 5x running amps.
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Old 09-12-2020, 10:17 PM   #5
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Thanks I'll get one and see what it does.
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Old 09-12-2020, 10:21 PM   #6
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Twinboat

Thanks, I realized I had put the wrong thing down should read " two 6 volt golf cart batteries in series.
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Old 09-12-2020, 10:24 PM   #7
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Jyrocharlie

Yeah, but the 5000 watt pure since inverter with a 10000 watt surge should have compensated for that.??
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Old 09-12-2020, 10:56 PM   #8
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Any inverter warning lights?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronnieg View Post
Yeah, but the 5000 watt pure since inverter with a 10000 watt surge should have compensated for that.??
Some inverters will trip if the supply voltage (batteries voltage) drops too low when starting. I would plug it into a cord, cool it down inside and then see if it will start from the inverter.

LRA happens everytime the motor starts. Not just when you short cycle it.
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Old 09-12-2020, 11:29 PM   #9
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Does the inverter have any on board diagnostics to help troubleshoot like a low voltage/amperage error or output overload error?
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Old 09-13-2020, 04:42 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jyrocharlie View Post




LRA happens everytime the motor starts. Not just when you short cycle it.
In rush current happen when you start a motor. 2 to 7 times the running amps.

Locked rotor means just that, the rotor can't turn against the pressure. 7 times the running amps until a thermal device shuts it off.
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Old 09-13-2020, 08:16 AM   #11
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twinboat, ndrorder and jyrocharlie;
OK, here's what I know. All the inverter's were pure sine wave. All the inverters have different built in internal warnings. The 2 Larger inverters had digital readout's of voltage in (13.4) and voltage out (120) they all had a low voltage warning (audible beep). The two larger (3000 & 5000 watt) had digital in & out. I would hear the beep on the 1000 watt as the motor tried and failed to start. On the larger ones the voltage in would drop to about 13.0 to 13.1 and the voltage out would drop to zero each time the motor attempted to start. It's a Whirlpool 11 cu. ft. counter depth refrigerator. The last attempt was with 36" 2/0 awg stranded welding cables to the 5000 watt inverter. Refrigerator is currently in use and plugged into 115 A/C and all attempt's where to just remove from A\C to inverter power?
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Old 09-13-2020, 08:44 AM   #12
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I read this thread quickly and may have missed it, but I did not see where you increased the battery bank size.

Two gulf cart batteries will not provide enough 12 volt power to produce 5000 watts of 120 volt power. That would be about 500 amps of 12 volt current. The connecting wire size is important, but the battery output capability is also important.

Deep draw batteries are not the best at delivering high current output. Check battery manufacture specifications. I expect you need at least 4 gulf cart batteries or maybe even 6.

200 amp hours of AGM batteries will barely support a 1000 watt inverter. Thick plated 6 volt batteries maybe even less.

I wish you good luck and happy trails ahead!
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Old 09-13-2020, 09:30 AM   #13
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Persistent;
Your right, no change in battery bank. We stay in Vermont for the summer and we're packing up to head home to Florida tomorrow. We have everything from the big refrigerator packed into the two small ones so we'll survive on the way home.
My thought right now is to add two deep cycle 12 volt marine batteries in parallel to the bank and I think that should work. Whats everyone's thoughts?
BTW I bought the inverters on Amazon and when they didn't work, sent them back. does anyone have a thought on a different inverter? Only using it to run the residential refrigerator while in transit. The 1000 watt works great with the two small ones!
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Old 09-13-2020, 09:37 AM   #14
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When you were attempting to switch from shore power to inverter power, did you give the fridge 5 minutes for the pressures in the compressor to equalize ?

No compressor will start while still under pressure.
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