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Old 04-02-2015, 06:56 PM   #1
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Inverter Question

What size inverter (watts) would I need to convert battery power (deep cycle marine) to 30 amps electricity?
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Old 04-02-2015, 07:02 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by smiybrneyes View Post
What size inverter (watts) would I need to convert battery power (deep cycle marine) to 30 amps electricity?
Inverter output / by voltage(115) = amps.
So, lets say a 2800 watt inverter, It will give you a little over 24 amps. at 115 VAC
30 Amps. is a big draw , going to need a rather big battery setup I would think.
This is the King Aire's Battery setup, and I think it has 2 2800 watt inverters?
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Old 04-02-2015, 07:09 PM   #3
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Inverter Question

None. Sorry. I couldn't help myself.

I assume you mean 30 AC amps. If so:

P = IV

P in watts
I in amps
V in volts

On the AC side:

30 amps @ 120 volts = 3600 watts

The problem is at the battery side where V = 12, it is a huge draw:

I = P / V. Or 3600 watts / 12 V = 300 amps
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Old 04-02-2015, 07:22 PM   #4
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As Scooby-Doo Mike noted - a huge drain on the batteries and he did not include a power factor. So if you wanted 30A amps @120Vac you would draw more than 300ADC because no inverter has a power factor of 1. Good luck with drawing that amount of current for long. Just run the gen is my suggestion if you don't have shore power.
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Old 04-02-2015, 10:16 PM   #5
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Planning to utilize 30amps ac from an inverter, using your stated battery bank, is ludicrous. However, if you are asking, can you use an inverter to plug your 30amp rig into, and judiciously and selectively run all the appliances and outlets in your rig, the answer is yes.

Don't plan on running the air conditioners, any high wattage heaters, or the microwave for any extended period, but with proper load management, other devices should perform well with a 1500 or 2000 watt inverter.

Optimally, the battery bank would have about 400ah capacity. Your hybrid marine batteries are not going to be satisfactory.
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Old 04-03-2015, 07:03 AM   #6
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3600 but go 4000 to be safe

Minimum battery is 1 pair GC-2 (or 1 4D) per 1,000 watts

Suggested battery is much,much,much,much bigger
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Old 04-03-2015, 06:02 PM   #7
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clarification on use of inverter

I recently posted about my house lights, frig, etc going out after about an hour on the road. One short surge of electricity brings them back. So since no one can find the reason, I thought if I had a separate battery sitting inside the rv with an inverter I can connect the rv power cord to it for one second every time the house lights go out to bring them back on. I don't have a battery bank, I have one house battery that fits into a small compartment under the step and the chassis battery. This is a small 22 foot fleetwood tioga class c on a ford 360. I have an extra deep cycle battery I bought when this problem started thinking I needed a new battery, but when I took it to have it installed I was told my battery was still good and not the problem. I also thought with the extra battery and inverter I could run a fan or heater while parked unhooked. Any thoughts?
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Old 04-03-2015, 06:57 PM   #8
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You asked for thoughts.

I think you have a bad connection somewhere, that turning on the converter, archs back together.

I think you need to get it fixed.

Look at both of your battery wires, from the house battery to the fuse panel / converter area.

Good luck
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Old 04-03-2015, 07:25 PM   #9
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Yes, I would love to get it fixed and have tried several times at no less than four rv shops, have paid as much as $100 just to be told they can find nothing wrong. I am a disabled older woman and have no clue how to do it myself.
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Old 04-03-2015, 08:52 PM   #10
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Your problem seems to be that your house battery is not charging from the chassis alternator while driving. If your truck battery is charging, then the problem is most likely the battery isolator which should provide the path from the alternator to your house battery. Plugging into shore power allows your onboard converter to supply 12V to re-charge your house battery and to power your fridge and lights. That's why that "one short surge of electricity" seems to bring the lights back to life. I'm surprised a tech could not find this problem easily.

Ask your service man to check that the alternator charges both batteries (when engine is running).
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Old 04-03-2015, 09:08 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wa8yxm View Post
3600 but go 4000 to be safe

Minimum battery is 1 pair GC-2 (or 1 4D) per 1,000 watts

Suggested battery is much,much,much,much bigger
Our '032 Dutch Star had 4 GC-2 and a 2000 watt inverter so it was right in line.
The Magna has 4 8D AGM's, a 3000 watt inverter and 400 watts of solar so it's a little better off.
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Old 04-03-2015, 09:11 PM   #12
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To me, "1 short surge of elictricty" is not going to recharge a completely dead, ( no lights ) battery.

She also says 1 second of plugged in will fix it.
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Old 04-03-2015, 10:29 PM   #13
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To me, "1 short surge of elictricty" is not going to recharge a completely dead, ( no lights ) battery.

She also says 1 second of plugged in will fix it.
I suspect that she just doesn't understand what is happening when she plugs in. The converter will instantaneously provide the power to operate the lights and refer, (thus the comment that a short burst of power re-establishes lights and power) but she didn't say the batteries were instantly re-charged. She probably doesn't even know that a lengthy period is required to fully recharge the batteries. It is apparent that some recharging is taking place while plugged in or the lights and fridge would not operate for the "one hour period" while driving.

I think YOU are reading more into her comments than the facts support. JMHO
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Old 04-03-2015, 10:38 PM   #14
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In post #7, she states " I can connect the rv power cord to it for one second every time the house lights go out to bring them back on"

What more am I reading into?
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