JACK ant. fail

[DonDee]

It appears my JACK is done. Getting ready for an upcoming adventure, I began my eq. testing and the TV is seeing no signal. The JACK signal meter is only showing 2 lights in my driveway, usually shows 3-4. I moved the RV with no improvement. Replaced the booster with my old oem unit with no improvement. In the past I'd get MANY channels in the dw.

The coax cont. tests ok.

Anyone have a failure of a JACK? Mine's about 2 y/o.

[mel s]

Originally Posted by DonDee

It appears my JACK is done. Getting ready for an upcoming adventure, I began my eq. testing and the TV is seeing no signal. The JACK signal meter is only showing 2 lights in my driveway, usually shows 3-4. I moved the RV with no improvement. Replaced the booster with my old oem unit with no improvement. In the past I'd get MANY channels in the dw.
The coax cont. tests ok.
Anyone have a failure of a JACK? Mine's about 2 y/o.

DonDee
I suspect the amp, (which is in the antenna head itself), has failed.
To verify that the coax to the amp is seeing and delivering 12VDC to the antenna head, turn the antenna amp power ON...remove the coax from the F connector on the head look for 12VDC between the center coax wire/lead and the "screw on" female metal fitting of the coax.
If 12VDC voltage is present the head is dead.... (if no 12VDC is present the power supply, the switch the coax or the fuse protecting them are bad).

[DonDee]

Thanks Mel. I just checked and there's 12.8v.

[Lobstah]

My Jack has an LED on it that tells me it's got power.

When you checked continuity, did you also check for shorts to ground/shielding?

Jim

[wa8yxm]

First: I keep telling people this: YOU DID NOT REPLACE THE BOOSTER, the booster is inside the antenna, up on (Above) the roof, YOU DID NOT REPLACE THE BOOSTER and that, is what failed.

You replaced its power supply

Now Check for 12 volts to the roof (Check at the antenna head, BE CAREFUL fuses can be blown by a goof) if it's not there check for 12 volts at the booster's antenna port (hook up short coax jumper and test it) Odds are good you have a cable fault.

One of the biggest reasons replacing a Winegard with the JACK makes things bettter,, turns out to be a cable issue.. You see, the connector up above the roof gets a bit tarnished and thus makes poor connection, As part of the head swap out you disconnect and reconnect, thus cleaning the connection.

NOW: the nice thing about this is.. NO COST REPAIR if it is a tarnished connection, Just disconnect and re-connect and you are good, Testing is recommended while

There is the connector you played with at the power supply/switch.
There is the connector below the roof
The connnector at the roof line (See note)
And the one at the antenna head.

NOTE: I have now heard of one, and seen one other case where the problem was the bulkhead connector, Moisture got into it and took out the center conductor (Tarnish) This is the connector that goes THROUGH the roof (The connector that is both just below and above the roofline) Mine is so buried in Dicor lap sealant that I do not think I will ever have that problem. But as I said, I have seen it twice so far, once on this or other forums, once on a TERRY trailer in an RV park.

[mel s]

Originally Posted by wa8yxm

First: I keep telling people this: YOU DID NOT REPLACE THE BOOSTER, the booster is inside the antenna, up on (Above) the roof, YOU DID NOT REPLACE THE BOOSTER and that, is what failed.

You replaced its power supply

Now Check for 12 volts to the roof (Check at the antenna head, BE CAREFUL fuses can be blown by a goof) if it's not there check for 12 volts at the booster's antenna port (hook up short coax jumper and test it) Odds are good you have a cable fault.

One of the biggest reasons replacing a Winegard with the JACK makes things bettter,, turns out to be a cable issue.. You see, the connector up above the roof gets a bit tarnished and thus makes poor connection, As part of the head swap out you disconnect and reconnect, thus cleaning the connection.

NOW: the nice thing about this is.. NO COST REPAIR if it is a tarnished connection, Just disconnect and re-connect and you are good, Testing is recommended while

There is the connector you played with at the power supply/switch.
There is the connector below the roof
The connnector at the roof line (See note)
And the one at the antenna head.

NOTE: I have now heard of one, and seen one other case where the problem was the bulkhead connector, Moisture got into it and took out the center conductor (Tarnish) This is the connector that goes THROUGH the roof (The connector that is both just below and above the roofline) Mine is so buried in Dicor lap sealant that I do not think I will ever have that problem. But as I said, I have seen it twice so far, once on this or other forums, once on a TERRY trailer in an RV park.

wa8yxm
Great points!
IMO there are 2 things that cause 99 % of all electrical/electronic problems:
One is corrosion and other is "The Hand of Man"!
Mel

[DonDee]

Originally Posted by wa8yxm

First: I keep telling people this: YOU DID NOT REPLACE THE BOOSTER, the booster is inside the antenna, up on (Above) the roof, YOU DID NOT REPLACE THE BOOSTER and that, is what failed.

You replaced its power supply

Now Check for 12 volts to the roof (Check at the antenna head, BE CAREFUL fuses can be blown by a goof) if it's not there check for 12 volts at the booster's antenna port (hook up short coax jumper and test it) Odds are good you have a cable fault.

One of the biggest reasons replacing a Winegard with the JACK makes things bettter,, turns out to be a cable issue.. You see, the connector up above the roof gets a bit tarnished and thus makes poor connection, As part of the head swap out you disconnect and reconnect, thus cleaning the connection.

NOW: the nice thing about this is.. NO COST REPAIR if it is a tarnished connection, Just disconnect and re-connect and you are good, Testing is recommended while

There is the connector you played with at the power supply/switch.
There is the connector below the roof
The connnector at the roof line (See note)
And the one at the antenna head.

NOTE: I have now heard of one, and seen one other case where the problem was the bulkhead connector, Moisture got into it and took out the center conductor (Tarnish) This is the connector that goes THROUGH the roof (The connector that is both just below and above the roofline) Mine is so buried in Dicor lap sealant that I do not think I will ever have that problem. But as I said, I have seen it twice so far, once on this or other forums, once on a TERRY trailer in an RV park.

OK, yesterday I replaced the POWER SUPPLY. I removed and cleaned all the connections. The BOOSTER/AMP is bad, JACK will be sending a new one as soon as I get a price. The unit is under warranty but of course I can't find the receipt.
My old batwing was working well but all the outside plastic bits were falling apart. Thought I'd try "new" tech. I like the JACK.

[CountryFit]

after receive the new head, i would recommend you take it part and prep it a little prior to installing. disassembly is easy, only a few screws. you will see 5 coax connectors inside (4 on base and 1 on heaad). unscrew each and every coax connector and insert a small rubber o-ring (take a piece of coax with an end screw to nap autoparts they will find the rubber to match the size). this is to prevent moisture from getting into it. you will have a long term benefit.

[mel s]

Originally Posted by CountryFit

after receive the new head, i would recommend you take it part and prep it a little prior to installing. disassembly is easy, only a few screws. you will see 5 coax connectors inside (4 on base and 1 on heaad). unscrew each and every coax connector and insert a small rubber o-ring (take a piece of coax with an end screw to nap autoparts they will find the rubber to match the size). this is to prevent moisture from getting into it. you will have a long term benefit.

CountryFit
That's and excellent tip.

I use Permatex Die-electric Grease: Permatex/Dielectric tune-up grease (22058) | Lubricant/Grease | AutoZone.com
in all coax connections and wire connectors, and in all light bulb sockets.
Most auto parts, and big box, stores sell it, (even Walmart).

Mel
'96 Safari

[John Hilley]

That is a good idea, but I would use Stuf, which is designed for high frequency RF use. It is Teflon based.

[DonDee]

New JACK is out for delivery today. King was very prompt shipping the replacement out. They have lousy communication but can't knock the speed. They would have covered it under warranty but I had no receipt.