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Old 08-17-2019, 04:30 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by jddangelo View Post
I installed the JC 12V unit in the spring and could not be happier.

Works fantastic, quiet and efficient.

Cant say enough good things!!
I am assuming by this you mean the JC adsorption AC/LP unit?
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Old 08-24-2019, 06:58 PM   #16
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JC Refrigeration

I have a 2003 4 door Norcold. I put he 120v JC Refrigeration unit in myself. I then went to Texas for the month of July with a average temp of around 97 degrees. I have a temp recorder. The freezer was 3 to -10 degrees. Lower unit 32-38 with it set on 7. Very happy with it. Very cold beer.



If you get one and do it yourself or have it done make sure to dry fit it before putting the thermo conducting material and the sealant foam down.
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Old 08-24-2019, 08:28 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by klcdenver View Post
I have a 2003 4 door Norcold. I put he 120v JC Refrigeration unit in myself. I then went to Texas for the month of July with a average temp of around 97 degrees. I have a temp recorder. The freezer was 3 to -10 degrees. Lower unit 32-38 with it set on 7. Very happy with it. Very cold beer.



If you get one and do it yourself or have it done make sure to dry fit it before putting the thermo conducting material and the sealant foam down.
Thanks for taking the time to reply! Very pleased to hear the results you have reported.

I am actually going to Elkhart for a separate mod so we made an appointment at JC's for them to install the unit. After seeing the rig they will suggest which unit to install (DC or 120V unit.) Our preference is for the DC unit.

Again I really appreciate you time in responding and enjoy that COLD beer .
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Old 08-24-2019, 08:53 PM   #18
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I had the 120 volt unit put in my Norcold 1201 in August 1, 2019. We left on vacation shortly after and are still on the road. The unit has worked very well. I installed a remote thermometer in both the freezer and the refrigerator. The refrigerator part runs in the middle 30 degrees and freezer is at 4 degrees now. When I called they told me the 120 volt units were more efficient and since I have an inverted and I almost never boondock. I thought about getting a residential but my refrig is in a slide and I could not get any extra height to install one. I also have a modified sine wave inverter which is not so good for the advanced electronics on the new refrigerators. The compressor in the JC unit is just a 120 volt standard refrigerator compressor. I am happy with our decision especially when I saw a large burned mark on the ceiling of the refer compartment. I'm surprised I didn't have a fire with the absorption refer. Before I could not keep ice cream cold enough now it is no problem.
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Old 08-24-2019, 08:59 PM   #19
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I had them install it for me it cost $300.00 for them to do it and it only took a couple of hours. The refrigerator has to be removed and laid down to replace and it is heavy plus I did not Know what I would do with the old cooling unit which has ammonia in it. I also did not have anyone to help me do it. They do have a very good video on how to do it yourself.
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Old 08-25-2019, 08:13 AM   #20
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Heating Man Thanks so much for your feedback!
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Old 09-16-2019, 12:00 PM   #21
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Just had the JC Refrigeration absorption unit installed in our Norcold LR1M. It works very well on setting #3. Word to to the wise: Check the drip tray drain tube and fittings. Our tube was pinched on reinstalling the reefer. They warranty their work so no harm done. The new fans they installed can be heard but the fridge is working better than new.
We had them remove the icemaker ....a good decision ; it had leaked . We now have x2 freezer space. It took them 2 1/2 hours and we were gone.
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Old 09-17-2019, 06:55 PM   #22
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Come on Smokey, the wait on your decision is killing us...... I'm waiting with baited breath and a 2013 model Norcold 2010IM, and visiting JC's web site almost weekly trying to decide. My 2010 has no problems except the fridge hit 55 degF on 287 returing to DFW with outside temp of 105! What to do.....? I would go with the DC compressor and add some batteries if needed - we both have good Ford SDs that will keep every thing running on the road and maybe even at night at WalMart.
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Old 09-17-2019, 08:33 PM   #23
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Made our decision

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Originally Posted by cletesingler View Post
Come on Smokey, the wait on your decision is killing us...... I'm waiting with baited breath and a 2013 model Norcold 2010IM, and visiting JC's web site almost weekly trying to decide. My 2010 has no problems except the fridge hit 55 degF on 287 returing to DFW with outside temp of 105! What to do.....? I would go with the DC compressor and add some batteries if needed - we both have good Ford SDs that will keep every thing running on the road and maybe even at night at WalMart.
OK! Here is the way we went. After talking to JR the only difference between DC 12 Volt and the 120 Volt was that the 120 Volt compressor will cool down the Norcold faster and the 120 volt uses less power.

So given the fact we only occasionally boondock (NASCAR races) and that he also had no issue with our 1500 Watt Modified Sine Wave inverter we went with the 120 Volt. He estimated that our four 12 volt batteries would give us approximately 4 days run time off the inverter. Of course we would never go four days without running the generator for other electrical needs.

So the results after having the unit for a week . . . . Every day we were lowering the setting from 9 all the way down to 3 where we are running it now. The fridge is now @ 34 degrees and the freezer is 2 degrees at ambient temps today of 75 degrees. The freezer has been as low as - 1.4.

We are pleased with JC Refrigeration. They were very careful in the pulling out of the unit. Moving blankets were placed all over the interior to avoid any damage - which was accomplished.

One little thing though, the drip hose was not connected back up to the tray and we noticed water in the fridge. CHECK your drip hose before you pull out!

Any questions…..feel free to PM me

We are VERY pleased with our decision to make this change.
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Old 09-18-2019, 06:37 PM   #24
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Did you or JC mention the difference in amps draw between 12VDC and 120VAC compressors? I assume only a couple, like 6 vs 8? Also, since I don't have an inverter, then I will go for a 12VDC, and be sure to have at least 2 good batteries (charged) for a possible night at FlyingJ (which is rare). I continue to worry about hot TX day of 105 degF like at Childress when the fridge went up to 55 - if the 12VDC compressor runs even half time, then I'm on the edge of my F350 charging the RV at about 4 amps or so. I know I can run the gen set, but I'm lazy especially at night. JC did not mention if there is a cutoff when the batteries don't keep up with demand of the compressor, and on your 120VAC I assume that's the job of the inverter. Thanks again for your story, safe travels, even in TX with record temps in Sep!
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Old 09-18-2019, 07:40 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by cletesingler View Post
Did you or JC mention the difference in amps draw between 12VDC and 120VAC compressors? I assume only a couple, like 6 vs 8? Also, since I don't have an inverter, then I will go for a 12VDC, and be sure to have at least 2 good batteries (charged) for a possible night at FlyingJ (which is rare). I continue to worry about hot TX day of 105 degF like at Childress when the fridge went up to 55 - if the 12VDC compressor runs even half time, then I'm on the edge of my F350 charging the RV at about 4 amps or so. I know I can run the gen set, but I'm lazy especially at night. JC did not mention if there is a cutoff when the batteries don't keep up with demand of the compressor, and on your 120VAC I assume that's the job of the inverter. Thanks again for your story, safe travels, even in TX with record temps in Sep!
The 120 Volt pulls .8 Amp, 96.4 Watts on AC. It requires at least a 600 watt inverter (does not require pure sign wave).

Or DC 12 Volt Compressor off the 12 Volt wires behind the fridge will draw 5.5 AMPS. There was no mention of a voltage cutoff if using DC, I can only assume the compressor will fail when the batteries cannot provide enough AMPS. TO avoid depleting your batteries at Flying J / boon docking don't you normally run your generator? The key is not to go below 12.03 on your batteries.

So the difference with DC is 5.5 vs .8 AMPS, quite a difference.

We have only experienced 90 degrees, and fridge and freezer were great, can't speak about 105's but all postings I have read had positive comments.
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Old 09-19-2019, 07:47 AM   #26
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amp question

I have a question for the electrical guys.

Is .8 amps AC actually more than 5.5 amps DC?

The Ac also runs thru an inverter with some loss.

I there are some tech guys out there that can answer this

Thanks
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Old 09-19-2019, 08:57 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by greenhorn1 View Post
I have a question for the electrical guys.

Is .8 amps AC actually more than 5.5 amps DC?

The Ac also runs thru an inverter with some loss.

I there are some tech guys out there that can answer this

Thanks
Yeah, you need to factor in the difference in voltage but that may not give us much useful data here.

I plugged this into an online calculator and it gave me 8.83 A @ 12.5V DC for the .8 A 120V compressor.

However, my inference from this thread is that AC compressor itself is more efficient than the DC compressor.

I'm making up numbers here: If the AC compressor can cool to 30F by running 50% less time than the DC compressor, it may not matter if the AC compressor requires more current than the DC compressor.

If anyone knows the details on the compressor efficiency differences, that might help.
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Old 09-20-2019, 06:22 PM   #28
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My thoughts exactly on the KWs needed, as it's obvious. Again, my decision is easy as I don't have an inverter, and a good one is $100s. As to my F350 keeping the batteries and 12VDC compressor running while trying to escape the north TX heat, that's where both Smokey and I need help. Let's assume we don't open the fridge doors while on the road and at night at FlyingJ, we plug in a lil ole gen set at night and morning when we constantly open the fridge door to eat a nice meal, and we operate the ice maker only when on AC (am I correct an ice maker only runs on AC?), and finally, fans inside the fridge when it's above 90 degF inside the RV (almost always from June to Oct here in north TX). I vote for the 12VDC compressor?! And, it's the least expensive!
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