LED scorching

[lburson]

In my last paragraph I posted a 7805 regulator! Should have been 7812 regulator! Sorry about that.

[Tha_Rooster]

I'm pretty sure the OP's light is 12 volt no need for regulator / transformer. LEDs are wired straight up to 12 volt and cheap on amazon.

[nothermark]

Most LED's require some form of current limiting or they will fry. There are some that have a current limiter included in the LED package. Make sure of what you are buying.

[adonh]

As was noted earlier the LED light string is spliced in to the original wiring for the florescent fixture and the old burn out ballast was left in place for some reason. I am not sure why. There are 2 switches for this bathroom fixture, one is an on/off switch on the ceiling fixture itself and the other is an on/off wall switch. Somehow the switch on the fixture had been turned off so when I tried to turn on the light at the wall switch as I always do it would not come one. That is when I found the scorching on the old ballast. With the switch on the fixture set to on I can now turn the light on and off as before at the wall switch.

But would like to clean this up and remove the old ballast and do away with the splice that is there now.

[BFlinn181]

Originally Posted by nothermark

Most LED's require some form of current limiting or they will fry. There are some that have a current limiter included in the LED package. Make sure of what you are buying.

Usually the strips of LED lights have built in resistance, but a further current limiter will make it last longer. adonh, if you wished to brighten the fixture,you could add additional LED strips like these:

Cool White 5M Waterproof 300 LED 3528 SMD Flexible LED Light Lamp Strip DC 12V | eBay

I'd suggest buying some of these too, it makes wiring much quicker.

20 x Connector Wire Cable for LED Strip 3528 Single Color 8mm PCB No Welding | eBay

For $22 bucks you could do that fixture and still have most of the coil still left to add LEDs in other spots.

The ballast was probably left in place because they are usually riveted into the metal backing and have to be drilled out. If you take it off the ceiling you can also remove the porcelain fluorescent tube holders at either end and leave more room for LEDs.

[adonh]

Originally Posted by BFlinn181

Usually the strips of LED lights have built in resistance, but a further current limiter will make it last longer. adonh, if you wished to brighten the fixture,you could add additional LED strips like these:

Cool White 5M Waterproof 300 LED 3528 SMD Flexible LED Light Lamp Strip DC 12V | eBay

I'd suggest buying some of these too, it makes wiring much quicker.

20 x Connector Wire Cable for LED Strip 3528 Single Color 8mm PCB No Welding | eBay

For $22 bucks you could do that fixture and still have most of the coil still left to add LEDs in other spots.

The ballast was probably left in place because they are usually riveted into the metal backing and have to be drilled out. If you take it off the ceiling you can also remove the porcelain fluorescent tube holders at either end and leave more room for LEDs.

Thanks, I will check on that. The light strip roll and connectors would work great. You are correct the old ballast is riveted in place. Thanks again.

[wa8yxm]

They converted a Florcesent fixture to LED after the Florcesent inverter/ballast failed and scorched the fixture, the scorching (And the circuit board) have nothing to do with the LED, The conversion was also done improperly as the power leads to the board should have been cut. They are not needed.

Suggestion: If you want more light.. A set of BACK UP LAMPS (led type) will likely fit inside that fixture (if you are careful) and give you all the light you want.. I have a set of RACING lamps (look a lot like the strip you have) they are good night lights but I want more light for general lighting, Thus will get back up lights (I use one of the pair I have over the entrance steps Just right there and the other is rigged as a portable for assorted uses).