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Old 03-27-2022, 06:34 PM   #1
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Leveling Your Rig

I'm a first time Rv'er. I've seen several videos where other RV'ers roll the rear tires of their rig up on blocks before leveling. Why do this? Your rig still isn't level...it's only higher off the ground which means your jacks will have to extend further (not a good thing) unless you use several jack pads. Please enlighten me. Thanks!
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Old 03-27-2022, 06:43 PM   #2
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There are several different kinds of RV's and ways to level.

In my last 2 trailers I frequently used blocks (2x6") to level the trailer. Then used the levelers to finish the job. In my new trailer I unhook and hit auto-level and the 6 point hydraulic system does its job. However you still have to be fairly level or you will run out of stroke.

The other issue is that with most RV's you should not have your tires just hanging out not touching the ground.

If you are are in an spot that is so far out of level that you need to run your jacks out all the way, your RV will be very shaky. You are typically better off using large blocks under your jacks.
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Old 03-27-2022, 06:48 PM   #3
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There are several different kinds of RV's and ways to level.

In my last 2 trailers I frequently used blocks (2x6") to level the trailer. Then used the levelers to finish the job. In my new trailer I unhook and hit auto-level and the 6 point hydraulic system does its job. However you still have to be fairly level or you will run out of stroke.

The other issue is that with most RV's you should not have your tires just hanging out not touching the ground.

If you are are in an spot that is so far out of level that you need to run your jacks out all the way, your RV will be very shaky. You are typically better off using large blocks under your jacks.

Well said
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Old 03-27-2022, 10:08 PM   #4
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When I see MH's with either the front or rear tires on blocks, I always thought that was done to level the unit front-to-back. I have a TT so have no experience whatsoever with leveling a MH.

With our small TT, life is pretty simple. Use a wedge to level side-to-side. Use the tongue jack to level front-to-back. Then stab's down to stabilize.
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Old 03-28-2022, 05:32 AM   #5
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With a motorhome, you have to think about all 4 corners. There is one camp spot we like where the view is to kill for, but you have to pay by leveling a lot. 6-1/2 inches left rear, 4" right rear, 2" left front. I carry a whole forest worth of boards to level with. But then, we rarely camp at commercial campgrounds, but prefer the more rural public types like national forest, state parks, county etc.
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Old 03-28-2022, 09:14 AM   #6
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With a motorhome, you have to think about all 4 corners. There is one camp spot we like where the view is to kill for, but you have to pay by leveling a lot. 6-1/2 inches left rear, 4" right rear, 2" left front. I carry a whole forest worth of boards to level with. But then, we rarely camp at commercial campgrounds, but prefer the more rural public types like national forest, state parks, county etc.

We frequently camp at a COE site near our home that has sites only 100' from one of the world's largest man-made-lakes that has fantastic views but every site slants towards the lake and I have to put 12" x 12" x 3" (front tire) and 12" x 24" x 3" (rear dually) rough cut boards under the tires on the low side to help level the coach. As stated, the main concern is to insure the tires and level legs are fully supported and the tires are never lifted above the support platform. There are several sites we found too far out of level to allow safe camping we usually will not camp at a site that requires more than (1) 3" support platform.
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Old 03-28-2022, 09:27 AM   #7
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We frequently camp at a COE site near our home that has sites only 100' from one of the world's largest man-made-lakes that has fantastic views but every site slants towards the lake and I have to put 12" x 12" x 3" (front tire) and 12" x 24" x 3" (rear dually) rough cut boards under the tires on the low side to help level the coach. As stated, the main concern is to insure the tires and level legs are fully supported and the tires are never lifted above the support platform. There are several sites we found too far out of level to allow safe camping we usually will not camp at a site that requires more than (1) 3" support platform.
Clarks Hill Lake???

I use 3/4 inch exterior plywood laminated together to make 1-1/2 inch. Seems to hold up better than standard boards.

Picture is of my "lumber yard" that I carry around with me.
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Old 03-28-2022, 09:27 AM   #8
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The only time I put something under my tires is if the site is unlevel enough to lift my tire to get level.
So I raise it a little more and slide a block under the tire, then I drop that Jack so it’s level and the tire is on the ground. If I can’t get level, I move or leave.
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Old 03-28-2022, 05:02 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by HoosierRVer View Post
I'm a first time Rv'er. I've seen several videos where other RV'ers roll the rear tires of their rig up on blocks before leveling. Why do this? Your rig still isn't level...it's only higher off the ground which means your jacks will have to extend further (not a good thing) unless you use several jack pads. Please enlighten me. Thanks!

I carry blocks made of 2x4or 6 sandwiched between plywood. I boondock mostly, but have had to block up in some rv parks. If I drive a tire onto a block or 2, I also block up the same corner with other blocks for the hydraulic jack, to level. My coach is 32,000 lbs, I block both dullies at each corner if needed.
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Old 03-30-2022, 04:41 PM   #10
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^^ I should have said if one dually has a block, both have a block at that location.
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Old 03-30-2022, 05:19 PM   #11
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^^ I should have said if one dually has a block, both have a block at that location.
No. I only block up where its needed. I have a electronic device called Level Mate Pro that tells me how many inches each wheel needs to rise. As I pull into a site it displays the information so I can adjust exactly where to stop. Sometimes I don't block any at all, sometimes I block one wheel, sometimes two, sometimes three. Just all depends.
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Old 03-31-2022, 12:28 PM   #12
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No. I only block up where its needed. I have a electronic device called Level Mate Pro that tells me how many inches each wheel needs to rise. As I pull into a site it displays the information so I can adjust exactly where to stop. Sometimes I don't block any at all, sometimes I block one wheel, sometimes two, sometimes three. Just all depends.

Once blocks are in place I push the automatic button and watch the rig level itself.
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Old 03-31-2022, 01:41 PM   #13
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Once blocks are in place I push the automatic button and watch the rig level itself.
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Old 03-31-2022, 03:22 PM   #14
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I have one compartment filled with blocking. 2X6's, 2x!2's etc. When I pull or back into a parking spot and stop I have a level attached to the inside wall of my coach next to the driver's seat. I can look at this level and get a pretty good read of how level the coach is. If I need to make adjustments I can back up or go ahead and place 2x6x16 boards under the tire(s) in the front, back or both to help get the coach level. I also carry 5/4x6x16 boards I can tweak the leveling with. After I have the coach reasonably level I will place 2X12" blocks under the leveling jacks and shim them until almost all the space between the blocks and the jacks is taken up.
Now I can turn the levelers on and level the coach. My front leveling jacks work in tandem while the rear jacks will operate independently. I raise the front some then the rear alternating back and forth until the bubble in my level is centered and the coach feels stable when you walk around inside. Small adjustments can be made by lowering one or the other rear jacks.
With the blocking under the jacks before I start the leveling I don't extend my jacks so much as they become wobbly. Once I'm done with the leveling the coach feels rock solid.
I check the level each day. I know the blocking under the jacks will be pressed into soft ground if that's what I'm parked on or maybe the jack(s) will settle a bit on it's own.
A quick check of how the bathroom door operates or the door on the refrigerator operates can be a tell tale of whether you need to recheck the leveling. If you open a door on either one and it stays where you let go of it you are level if the bathroom door and refrigerator doors are plumb. I had to shim the hinges on my bathroom door so it would stay put when the coach was perfectly level.
A nearly full glass of water sitting on your kitchen shelf can tell you a lot if the shelf is level to begin with. If the water in the glass isn't an even depth with the top of the glass you are out of level.
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