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Old 10-13-2017, 06:04 PM   #1
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LP/CO solenoid valve very hot to touch

I just replaced my CO/LP sensor with the kit from MTI Industries, model 70-742R.

The install went well however I find the solenoid that controls the shut-off valve at the LP tank is very hot, actually too hot to touch. I would imagine its about 160 degrees. I fear this excessive heat will cause the solenoid to fail prematurely.

Volt meter reads about 12+volts at the solenoid while on shore power, and draws 1.07 amps.

The specs from MTI state the sensor (the part inside the coach) operates at 90 milliamps, there are no specs for the solenoid at the valve. If I am to assume the solenoid operates at the same draw the sensor does, that means the solenoid is drawing about 10x what it should. If that is true, it would explain why the solenoid is so hot.

I have called MTI a couple times and explained my concerns. The call-taker merely states the solenoid does operate warmly...end of what she knows.

Does anyone on this forum have any techy knowledge of whether these solenoids are in fact supposed to draw a full 1 amp to keep the valve open? If that is appropriate, wouldn't that contemplate draining batteries fairly quickly if boondocking?
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Old 10-13-2017, 09:55 PM   #2
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Take it back replace it, enough with the tests, not worth your time.

Try to get a different "lot #", as not of the same batch of manufacture.
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Old 10-13-2017, 10:08 PM   #3
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Dual CO / LP Gas Alarms with Valve Control Kit - Safe-T-Alert RV Dealer

https://www.safehomeproducts.com/shp...62/281762.aspx

Specs say it will draw 1.6 amps. Seems like a lot to keep a solenoid activated but that's what it calls for.

I think I'd shoot it with an IR gun and get the actual temperature. The high temperature is 150.

Operational Temperature: -40 degrees F to +150 degrees F.
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Old 10-14-2017, 09:53 AM   #4
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Hi ! Welcome to IRV2! We're sure glad you joined the gang!

I agree with Arch. Keep her between the ditches!

Good luck, happy trails, and God bless!
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Old 10-14-2017, 10:40 AM   #5
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1.07 amps is ridiculous, that's over 12 watts. I have the original one in mine which needs to be replaced and it gives the solenoid 12 volts to open it than reduces the voltage down to around 5 volts to reduce power draw and does not get hot. If this is how they work now I will just get a detector. I tested mine with a propane torch, it did set off the alarm and turn off the valve but the sensitivity was very bad.
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Old 10-14-2017, 11:34 AM   #6
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Specs taken from Manual http://www.mtiindustries.com/PDFs/rv/70_Series.pdf

MODELS 70-742, 70-742-MS, 70-742-R Kit,70-742-R-MS Kit


POWER SUPPLY 12 VDC

NOMINAL CURRENT DRAW 108 mA (1.6 Amps with Solenoid Valve)


OPERATIONAL TEMPERATURE -40*F to +150*F (-4*C to +66*C)

RELATIVE HUMIDITY 15% (+/-5%) to 95% (+/-4%)

AUDIBLE OUTPUT 85 dB @ 10 feet


GAS ALARM TRIGGER < 25% of the LEL of Propane and Methane

GAS LEVEL CONFIRMATION 8 Second delay before alarm

CO ALARM TRIGGER 4-15 Minutes @ 400 ppm

CASE DIMENSIONS 6.5”W x 3.5”H x 1.38”D

WARRANTY 1Year Limited



High amp and HOT---------- not too ideal for battery when in storage or boondocking
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Old 10-15-2017, 11:44 PM   #7
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I think the temperatures suggested by the manufacturer refer to the ambient temperature of the environment, not the device itself. I did shoot the solenoid with an IR gun and it read 174 degrees. 13+ volts and a full amp. And those numbers are at the solenoid. All the mfr's literature speak about the sensor inside the coach, it says nothing about the solenoid valve at the LP tank, nor any mention of how much current is to be delivered to the solenoid.


In any case, the solenoid draws way too much current and I anticipate the batteries will be drained quickly when the rig is dry camping. So I think a return to the retailer is in order.


Thank you very much for all your tips and suggestions, much appreciated.
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Old 10-16-2017, 05:18 AM   #8
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Hmm... Neither of my coaches have a shutoff solenoid in the LP supply. Is a shutoff solenoid required by some regulation? If not, could it be eliminated, and a non-solenoid version of the LP detector used?

Ordinarily, I'm big on safety, but perhaps the coach manufacturers have determined there's no benefit from the complication, absent a regulation.

Just curious.
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Old 10-16-2017, 01:51 PM   #9
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Sounds like the solenoid's coil has a short within the windings.
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Old 10-16-2017, 11:08 PM   #10
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This was the current-day replacement for the device originally installed in the coach, which is a 2000 Rexhall.

I'm entertaining another person's comment on this thread to remove the valve altogether and install an independent battery operated CO/LP monitor in the coach. Completely detach this device from the coach's system, no power drain.
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Old 10-17-2017, 05:00 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G-Dawg View Post
This was the current-day replacement for the device originally installed in the coach, which is a 2000 Rexhall.

I'm entertaining another person's comment on this thread to remove the valve altogether and install an independent battery operated CO/LP monitor in the coach. Completely detach this device from the coach's system, no power drain.
Our coach's CO/LP detector is run off the 12V system. In fact, it is on the unswitched side of the house battery, so it's powered 24/7, unless the batteries are removed or the leads disconnected. This s the same detector make and wiring design as was found on our previous coach. Here's a selection from two different online vendors, here and here.
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Old 10-21-2017, 03:40 PM   #12
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I have an original CCI detector and valve of 1999 vintage. I took apart the control head and looked to see if I could replace just the gas sensor. It appears to be the FIGARO thingie.



So I looked around and bought one from Ebay for about $10 and will replace and test it when the detector comes in.

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Old 10-27-2017, 11:02 PM   #13
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Do you have to adjust that pot (to the let of that sensor) when replaced?


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Old 11-02-2017, 12:54 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CoachStreamr View Post
Do you have to adjust that pot (to the let of that sensor) when replaced?
Today I tested my CCI detector with an unlit propane torch..... nothing. I replaced the Figaro doodad and tested the unit, It went into alarm mode in less than a second. So for about ten bucks you can restore your CCI detector to "as new" operation. I can't leave good enough alone so I tested the unit with the pot at both extremes and didn't see any difference so I put it back to where it was.
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