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Old 09-24-2020, 06:41 AM   #1
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LP Gas issues

Good morning, all.
Recently purchased my 96 Georgie Boy Rv. Going through it a little at a time to try and get all the systems up and running.
At this point, the only LP related appliance that is working is the Stovetop burners. I can get the Fridge to run on 12v and Shore power. I am getting the ingnition to click on both the Atwood furnace and water heater, and the Norcold Fridge. The one thing in common with all three is it seems I am not getting any gas to flow.
I've crawled around the rig with soapy water and checked all the line connectors that I could find. No leaks. A little gas was leaking into the oven area, but a quick jiggle of the oven knob solved that.
I've ordered a new Regulator for the tank, and I'm hoping that this will encourage correct pressure to get gas out the lines to the rest of the appliances.
Is there anything else I might be missing? Thank you all in advance for your advice.
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Old 09-24-2020, 07:35 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InHotPursuit View Post
Good morning, all.
Recently purchased my 96 Georgie Boy Rv. Going through it a little at a time to try and get all the systems up and running.
At this point, the only LP related appliance that is working is the Stovetop burners. I can get the Fridge to run on 12v and Shore power. I am getting the ingnition to click on both the Atwood furnace and water heater, and the Norcold Fridge. The one thing in common with all three is it seems I am not getting any gas to flow.
I've crawled around the rig with soapy water and checked all the line connectors that I could find. No leaks. A little gas was leaking into the oven area, but a quick jiggle of the oven knob solved that.
I've ordered a new Regulator for the tank, and I'm hoping that this will encourage correct pressure to get gas out the lines to the rest of the appliances.
Is there anything else I might be missing? Thank you all in advance for your advice.
The other thing I can add is that it takes awhile to get gas to the fridge and WH if the tank was empty or removed. I normally run my stove for 5 minutes or so then light the others as needed. I doubt it's the regulator. If you have pressure enough to run a stove you have enough to run the fridge and WH.
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Old 09-24-2020, 08:28 AM   #3
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When we first fired up a 1995 Fleetwood Flair that had been sitting for a few years, it took cycling the fridge and water heater countless times before they finally ignited. They only release a little fuel at a time before giving up, requiring you to turn them off and back on again before they'll open their valve and try to ignite again, finally purging the air from the lines. (Unless you have a dinosaur board in them that will retry more than one.)

The water heater took a solid wap with the back of a screwdriver on its gas valve before its solenoid would properly open the valve when getting 12v -- so it also could be the valves at the appliances that are giving you trouble. (Check that you're getting around 12v to the valve solenoids when the appliances are trying to start, and that the valves emit a nice "clack" when they activate.)
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Old 09-24-2020, 03:39 PM   #4
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LP System pressure is only 0.39psi (11"WC)

When LP has been valved out the reg goes into 'lock up'
It takes several attempts to get propane flow to all appliances due to low system pressure and flow demand

Plus any LP Reg should be replaced if old or suspect
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Old 10-05-2020, 06:13 AM   #5
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So the regulator change went well. Propane now fires for the Fridge and for the WH. (I am not getting hot water to come out of the faucets yet - but that is a different thread).

Still not getting the furnace to light. I may need to cycle the system a few more times to make sure the pressure is up and I get propane to that system. I am not hearing the familiar clicks of the DSI either, so there could be an issue there - perhaps the DSI itself, maybe the thermostat - we'll see.

At any rate - any progress is good progress! I appreciate all the comments and advice so far!
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Old 10-06-2020, 11:11 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InHotPursuit View Post
So the regulator change went well. Propane now fires for the Fridge and for the WH. (I am not getting hot water to come out of the faucets yet - but that is a different thread).

Water heater tank FULL of water...correct?
Do you get any water flow thru hotside of a faucet?
YES water flows but isn't hot....then check Bypass Valve on water heater and/or outside shower hot/cold knobs closed
NO flow......water heater tank HOT outlet (top line) check valve has failed and stopping flow from tank


Still not getting the furnace to light. I may need to cycle the system a few more times to make sure the pressure is up and I get propane to that system. I am not hearing the familiar clicks of the DSI either, so there could be an issue there - perhaps the DSI itself, maybe the thermostat - we'll see.

If No clicking/no ignition.
Does Furnace FAN run? Fan Must run FIRST before anything else can occur
12VDC goes to furnace from RV DC Dist Fused Panel....it also goes to one side of the thermostat. When thermostat switch closes the DC goes back to furnace ----starts fan, then when sail switch closes DC goes thru Limit Switch then to circuit board which then allows DC to Spark Electrode & Gas Valve


At any rate - any progress is good progress! I appreciate all the comments and advice so far!
Brand/Models of Water Heater AND Furnace
Otherwise any info is generic and guesses
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Old 10-06-2020, 01:56 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InHotPursuit View Post
So the regulator change went well. Propane now fires for the Fridge and for the WH. (I am not getting hot water to come out of the faucets yet - but that is a different thread).
There's probably a bypass for the water heater (often under the sink) that needs to be opened properly to allow water to flow through the water heater.

Quote:
Originally Posted by InHotPursuit View Post
Still not getting the furnace to light. I may need to cycle the system a few more times to make sure the pressure is up and I get propane to that system. I am not hearing the familiar clicks of the DSI either, so there could be an issue there - perhaps the DSI itself, maybe the thermostat - we'll see.
Best thing to do here is follow the troubleshooting steps from service manual for the given furnace.
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Old 10-10-2020, 02:43 PM   #8
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Thanks, all! Got Hot Water! No bypass valve on this rig (yet, I'll be installing one). Found a closed valve that was not letting water into HW Tank. Wife just took a shower and said water was WAY hotter than she expected! Good news!
As for the furnace - the fan does go on just like it should and the air is blowing nicely through the system. I opened her up to check the sail switch - looked clean no blockages and easily moved when I pushed on it manually. So guessing the fan is moving air strong enough to close that part of the circuit. Still though, no ignition.
HWH - Atwood G6A-8E
Furnace - Atwood 8525 - III
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Old 10-10-2020, 10:27 PM   #9
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Atwood G6a-8E
Thermal Fuse (clear tubing) BLOWS at 190*F due to flame blowback
Stops all DC

T-stat Opens at 140*F and Closes at 110*F for reheat
ECO (energy cut off) high temp t-stat Opens at 180*F...triggers Red Fault light and 'Locks Out' operation
Reset by turning switch off then back on after temp drops below 150*F
**If ECO Opens then T-stat failed




Atwood 8525 iii
DC from Fused Source goes to 'timed delay relay' and to T-stat
T-stat closes DC goes to other terminal on TDR and allows DC to Fan motor
Fan starts and moves paddle on sail switch closing it -- DC from TDR goes to/thru sail switch/Limit switch to circuit board
DC then goes from circuit board to gas valve and spark electrode

Fan running then S/B DC on wire from TDR to sail switch and at Circuit board connector
Then DC S/B on wire to gas solenoid
Spark electrode should Fire....Spark Gap S/B 1/8" - 3/16" and be directly over burner slots
Burner needs to be clean/not rusted up/burnt out

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Old 10-11-2020, 10:40 AM   #10
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1 . While the blower is running, check for 12v between the white and yellow wires at the ignition control board.

If you're not getting ~12v between white and yellow wires at the control board, then check for 12v between one of the yellows and each contact of the sail switch, then each contact of the limit switch. One of those two items, or the connection to them, (or maybe at the relay, if the relay side of the sail switch isn't getting 12v) are bad.

2. If you're getting voltage between white and yellow at the control board, then check between the yellow and red wire at the control board. (Begin testing as soon as the blower turns on, and keep testing for a while. There's probably a delay between the time the control board gets power, and then begins to emit, and then another delay when it shuts down after failing to detect flame. Sorry, I don't remember off the top of my head what the delay, if any, should be.)

If you're not getting voltage between the red and yellow, but are between while and yellow, then there's probably an issue with the ignition control board.

If it is the Ignition Control Board, I used the "Dinosaur Electronics FAN50PLUS Universal Igniter Board" to replace the one in my old furnace. Slightly more complex to install, but turns off the blower motor on older furnaces without a fan controller if the furnace fails to ignite, saving from heavy, continuous, battery draw.
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