My "dogbone" shorted out!

[Old-Biscuit]

Amazing how many do not read a thread except for initial post.......

[MSHappyCampers]

Originally Posted by red raby

Just curious : Why do you need 50a when parked at home ? Is someone living in it or is there a certain piece of equipment that won't work when using 30A ? If the latter is the case just go into your breaker box and swap the breaker to the other side of your breaker box. 30A is plenty for a MH unless you have three ACS or are using two AC'S and a range with an oven .I know a lot of people will tell you you can't run two ac's on a 30 amp breaker but I have done so many times .

I never need 50A service at home. I am very, very careful to never run anywhere close to the 30A capability that I have. If I'm running a space heater during extremely cold weather then that a one 100W light bulb in the wet bay are the only things on. In the summer I run one A/C unit.

[Philliprn2]

Same thing here. Sent it back for a refund Amazon

[National 350]

IF you have room in the breaker box for a 50amp....they take up TWO spaces as there are TWO hot leads......................

[96 Wideglide]

Originally Posted by red raby

I know a lot of people will tell you you can't run two ac's on a 30 amp breaker but I have done so many times .

Yeah, I managed that for a short time until I melted the plug on a 30A extension !

[Steve 716]

Other than trying to convert your circuit to 50 amps with a dog bone, just use a 30 amp to 50 amp plug adaptor (not corded). Your 30 amp cord plugs into one end and your RV 50 amp receptacle plugs into your RV power input at the other end. This will give you a maximum 30 amp RV input, assuming your circuit breaker is rated for 30 amps. Always use 50 amp gauge rated wiring. I assume your dog bone either used the wrong gauge internal wiring or a lug inside it came loose. I’m surprised that if a lug was the issue your house breaker did not open to break the circuit and prevent your fire. I’m not sure why you need 50 amps when storing your coach.

The other alternative, and the one I recommend, is a 15 amp to 50 amp plug adaptor (not corded). A 15 amp receptacle is on one end and the 50 amp plug on the other. This will give you a maximum 15 amp RV input and will accommodate a standard 15 amp circuit breaker. 15 amps are more than sufficient to run a residential refrigerator full time and keep your batteries charged with a few amps left over.

The second option is what I did. I drilled a hole in my house exterior wall in my garage, ran standard house wiring through it, and mounted it to the side of my house with a weatherproof housing. I ran a 30 amp extension cord to my 15/50 adaptor, plugged them in that was all there was to it.

There are two more steps. First, if you don’t have maintenance free batteries you will need to check the water level once or twice a month. Second, run your generator periodically to test it. You should be doing those things anyway.

On another topic, I sent a lengthy reply to your computer replacement inquiry. Did you receive it?

[MSHappyCampers]

Originally Posted by Steve 716

Other than trying to convert your circuit to 50 amps with a dog bone, just use a 30 amp to 50 amp plug adaptor (not corded). Your 30 amp cord plugs into one end and your RV 50 amp receptacle plugs into your RV power input at the other end. This will give you a maximum 30 amp RV input, assuming your circuit breaker is rated for 30 amps. Always use 50 amp gauge rated wiring. I assume your dog bone either used the wrong gauge internal wiring or a lug inside it came loose. I’m surprised that if a lug was the issue your house breaker did not open to break the circuit and prevent your fire. I’m not sure why you need 50 amps when storing your coach.

The other alternative, and the one I recommend, is a 15 amp to 50 amp plug adaptor (not corded). A 15 amp receptacle is on one end and the 50 amp plug on the other. This will give you a maximum 15 amp RV input and will accommodate a standard 15 amp circuit breaker. 15 amps are more than sufficient to run a residential refrigerator full time and keep your batteries charged with a few amps left over.

The second option is what I did. I drilled a hole in my house exterior wall in my garage, ran standard house wiring through it, and mounted it to the side of my house with a weatherproof housing. I ran a 30 amp extension cord to my 15/50 adaptor, plugged them in that was all there was to it.

There are two more steps. First, if you don’t have maintenance free batteries you will need to check the water level once or twice a month. Second, run your generator periodically to test it. You should be doing those things anyway.

On another topic, I sent a lengthy reply to your computer replacement inquiry. Did you receive it?

Yes I did! Your comments are appreciated!

[96 Wideglide]

Originally Posted by Steve 716

The other alternative, and the one I recommend, is a 15 amp to 50 amp plug adaptor (not corded). A 15 amp receptacle is on one end and the 50 amp plug on the other. This will give you a maximum 15 amp RV input and will accommodate a standard 15 amp circuit breaker. 15 amps are more than sufficient to run a residential refrigerator full time and keep your batteries charged with a few amps left over.

Why would you want to knock a 30A circuit down to 15A?

[GypsyR]

I added a 50 amp breaker, the wiring, and an outlet to my car garage so I could park the RV next to it. Though I have "dogbones" it quite frankly never occurred to me to wire it up any lesser way than 50 amp. I have used my coach with a 30 amp hookup and found that I could not run both roof AC's at the same time with it. In my case I like to go out and hang out in the coach whenever I feel like, year round. (I do jigsaws on the table, for one thing.) I also like to run the AC full blast to pre-cool the coach before leaving on summer trips. I've even decided to run a second 50 amp outlet. I keep the coach behind the garage but before leaving on a trip I relocate it to the front for easier loading and water systems service and checks. So I'm putting another more conveniently located for that stuff. Jeez, heavy Romex is expensive these days!

[MSHappyCampers]

Originally Posted by GypsyR

I added a 50 amp breaker, the wiring, and an outlet to my car garage so I could park the RV next to it. Though I have "dogbones" it quite frankly never occurred to me to wire it up any lesser way than 50 amp. I have used my coach with a 30 amp hookup and found that I could not run both roof AC's at the same time with it. In my case I like to go out and hang out in the coach whenever I feel like, year round. (I do jigsaws on the table, for one thing.) I also like to run the AC full blast to pre-cool the coach before leaving on summer trips. I've even decided to run a second 50 amp outlet. I keep the coach behind the garage but before leaving on a trip I relocate it to the front for easier loading and water systems service and checks. So I'm putting another more conveniently located for that stuff. Jeez, heavy Romex is expensive these days!

Man, you got that right! I couldn't believe the price of $5.77 per linear foot for 6-3 at Lowes!

[mikeh2obury]

Wire it up for what you need. In this case 50 amp DP breaker in your box, correct size wire for the run from the box and 50 amp outlet on garage. Your Class A investment is worth having a qualified electrician set you up for success.

[featherlite]

I have a similar set up in my garage

org. was a 3 wire 30 amp receptical on a 30 amp single braker for the old rv ( red wire not used ) than the power hog came along so for the at home power I used the red wire of the 3 wire 10 gauge old set up and changed the braker to a double 30 amp braker so now I have 30 amps on each leg of the 50 amp receptical . never in the 6 years I have been using it have I had any problem or braker trips . 30 amp is marked on the receptical

but I have 2 amp meters in the coach at the drivers seat , 1 for each leg so I can tell how much power I am using at any time

at our cottage I wired the 50 amp receptical ( marked 40 amps )up with 8 gauge stove wire and a 40 amp braker .
I have 3 a/c units and a ton of other power hog stuff but unless I am driving into the sun on a super hot day I have never used all 3 a/c's at the same time and 40 amps is lots of power for my wife and I



it is all in the power management

[murraymcleod]

Originally Posted by 96 Wideglide

Why would you want to knock a 30A circuit down to 15A?

Maybe he meant 20 amp. While at my sisters house over the holidays, i had to connect my 50 amp coach to her 20 amp (only) outlet for some minimal power while in her driveway. I used an extension cord connected to a 20 to 30 amp dog bone, and then connected that to my 30 to 50 amp dog bone!...then to my 50 amp surge protector finally connected to my RV's 50 amp power cord!


That seems like a lot of connections that could fail. Is there a better way? Maybe at least a 20 to 50 bone? With that setup, my surge protector also seemed to behave strangely. It would show all three lights green for about half a day, but the last light would show red for a few hours every day! What's with that?


At home I also have a 30 amp connector on the side of my house. Would it be safer to use a 30 amp extension cord so that the 30/50/surge connection is farther from the house (but not under the RV)??

[Jkwilson1989]

Originally Posted by red raby

Just curious : Why do you need 50a when parked at home ? Is someone living in it or is there a certain piece of equipment that won't work when using 30A ? If the latter is the case just go into your breaker box and swap the breaker to the other side of your breaker box. 30A is plenty for a MH unless you have three ACS or are using two AC'S and a range with an oven .I know a lot of people will tell you you can't run two ac's on a 30 amp breaker but I have done so many times .

He’s not wanting 50A, just 30A wired to a 50A plug protected by a 30A breaker.

People concerned about this don’t understand electricity.