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TriMoot · 08-20-2020, 09:27 AM

Sigh...so camped the other night on a rather uneven ground, did my best to get it level but by afternoon noticed a puddle on the floor around the fridge. Moved to a new campground that is very level and the fridge is still not working.

Opened up the cover on the outside and sure enough there's a pile of yellow stuff at the base of the chimney....and of course the fridge is not cooling, either on gas or electric. I've shut it off since I 'think' I've read that yellow stuff is flammable.

Let me know if I'm correct in saying the fridge is dead....meaning, there's no way to repair it.

Yes, the fridge has been working flawlessly before this.

TriMoot · 08-20-2020, 09:43 AM

Welp....according to this gentleman, it's toast.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IT_5HGe4q-k&t=166s

So...should I consider replacing just the cooling unit or get a new fridge?

FWIW we are looking for a new used rig as we are full timers and will be traveling from Spokane, WA down to Florida each year starting in October of this year.

Thanks.

TriMoot · 08-20-2020, 10:13 AM

Here's some validating pics: (Too bad the yellow powder isn't as desirable as the white powder....LOL! Otherwise the replacement fridge would already be paid for!)

Startech · 08-20-2020, 12:13 PM

You are correct. It's toast. Sorry. I don't think being unlevel caused it though. Probably age and corrosion.

TriMoot · 08-20-2020, 12:30 PM

Does anyone have any recommendations on how to figure out what is the best thing to do?

I can replace the cooling unit for about $1400 but what about replacing it with a residential fridge? This RV is 23 years old, I've kept up on the maintenance and have two new golf cart batteries and a 300 AMP inverter that I don't really use, except when we are boondocking and I have to work, so I plug in my laptop.

Where would I go to figure out what I would need to replace it? AND...would a new one even FIT through the door?

Ugh...we're here in Port Townsend (Point Hudson RV park) and everything is melting...sigh...guess I needs answers fast...oh...and probably some ice and coolers! HA!

Any help is greatly appreicated.

aether_one · 08-20-2020, 12:41 PM

$1400 for a cooling unit? How much is a new fridge?

I had a fridge bite the yellow dust in a TT several years ago. I replaced the cooling unit for about half the cost of a new fridge: $450 vs $900 for me at the time.

This failure is not a one day out of level problem. If the original fridge lasted 23 years you got the lifetime and more out of the unit.

Old-Biscuit · 08-20-2020, 01:22 PM

CAUTION:
That Yellow Residue is the dried Sodium Chromate used in the coolant as a rust inhibitor.....Ammonia, Hydrogen Gas, Water and Sodium Chromate

It is 'hazardous' substance so clean up should be done WET
Don't go using an air compressor to blow it out.

Cooling Unit tubing failed/Leaked

Replacement Cooling Unit---check with David Force/RV Cooling Warehouse
Replacement with a 'Compressor Unit'
Replacement with a 'Residential Fridge'

Fridge 23 years old -------good service.

SomeDay · 08-20-2020, 01:55 PM

Our Nevercold only lasted 11 years 2003 to 2014 till it died and we had the yellow stuff you have. For what a reconditioned Amish cooling unit cost (cheapest we could find), and considering the other fridge components were also aged out, we decided to replace with a residential fridge as well add our solar array 1000w 880ah at the same time.

For us best move we ever made on many counts. I'm not sure how the figures will work out for you if you aren't planning on keeping this unit for much longer though! The cost of a new replacement RV fridge was half the cost of our TV upgrades, new residential fridge freezer, trims, and our solar system. It's more than paid for itself in the past 6 years alone.

If you have a residential fridge you should have at least 600w & 600ah (300ah usable).

Good luck.

tommar · 08-20-2020, 02:12 PM

Yup. Those photos are "toasty!"

If it was me and you plan to keep your coach, I'd go for a residential fridge. Measure the fridge you have and the opening and search for a residential fridge that is close in measurements. You will most likely have to take the doors off the new fridge to get it in the door and you will need a helper or two for the job. Also perhaps a bit of carpentry work. Make sure the gas line in there is completely inoperative (remove it) and make sure the 120v power plug works on the inverter AND the normal 120v system. You may need to install some kind of bypass switch/circuit to manually shift to inverter.... I've never done this job but I know the time is coming when I will.

TriMoot · 08-20-2020, 03:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SomeDay

....
If you have a residential fridge you should have at least 600w & 600ah (300ah usable).

Good luck.

I misquoted our inverter, it's a 600W so maaaaaybee it would work? We don't use it for anything than an occasional laptop or TV use if boon-docking.

Yeah, just don't know. I just need a 'band-aid' to get me through until we purchase our retirement rig...which is a REALLY challenge right now. Not only are there view Class A's in our price range (2006 to 2009) add in the fact that my wife is adamant about a KING BED...ugh...hens teeth. BUT....there's one out there for us...just got to find it!

Thanks for your input.

TriMoot · 08-20-2020, 04:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tommar

If it was me and you plan to keep your coach, I'd go for a residential fridge. .....

Yeah, we for sure we are NOT going to keep this rig, it has NO SLIDES! And we are full-timers and will be retired in December.

A little commerial here for Rexhall rigs...I have to say, even though this rig is 23 years old, the PO kept up the maintenance and it has some of the things other highend rigs have (central vac - which actually is not a big deal) but well insulated basement (we had no problems living in it during the winter in Spokane, WA) and many other things, and to be honest, I WILL miss this rig. This 460 engine had only 36k miles on it when we bought it 6 years ago and even now with 60K it sounds SOLID. Just love it! AND...the ride...it's not bad! I steer it with one hand and it tracks straight, (has a shock on the steering thingy underneath) and yeah, going up a good size hill it does get a bit noisy but after a few minutes it's quiet again.

So yeah, I do love this old rig, BUT..I AM looking forward to even test driving a DP....8 or 10 air bags...oh yeah...that's got to be nice!

Am I looking forward to the extra cost of a DP...yeah...not so much, but again, the difference between the too, I would imagine, is huge. (It better be! Cause the price difference is huge too!)

Okay, back to this issue....I need a band-aid fix....has anyone replaced a Dometic RM7732 fridge with.....anything...just need input.

Thanks!

SomeDay · 08-20-2020, 05:40 PM

Just throwing this out there. Do you have access to a graveyard where old/totalled MH's go to die??? Just a thought for sourcing something to maybe tie you over short term.

TriMoot · 08-20-2020, 06:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SomeDay

Just throwing this out there. Do you have access to a graveyard where old/totalled MH's go to die??? Just a thought for sourcing something to maybe tie you over short term.

That would be a great idea....hmm, I guess I’ll see what google can find.

Thanks!

deandec · 08-20-2020, 07:05 PM

Write down the refrigerator opening measurements in the MH.

Search online for counter depth refrigerators about 15 cu ft or smaller.

They may slide into your cavity and cost around $650.

The picture of your absorption refrigerator looks similar to the back of my Dometic.

I have determined that I can get a larger refer via Magic Chef, GE, Frigidaire etc, and have to fill in some vacated cavity space with cabinet modifications when replacing my 10 cu ft Dometic RM7030.

YMMV