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Old 01-02-2012, 04:09 PM   #15
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The ground connections on onan are notorious for coming loose.It has to do with the type ends they use.Check front and back cables.When the starter is engaged it passes the ground enabling the motor to run

Are you talking about the main ground cable that goes from the genset to the coach frame? I don't understand what you are refering to - "front and back cables".
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Old 01-05-2012, 06:03 AM   #16
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I have a 2002 Brave and had a very similar problem. I finally took it to the dealer to see if he could find out what was wrong. Took him a while but finally found a pinched wire under the genset. It was pretty tricky to find. But yes, as soon as you released the start button it would just die. Never tripped the circuit breakers, just died.
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Old 01-05-2012, 09:39 AM   #17
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I see you found the problem...

Folks many ONAN generators are smarter than many users.. They check several things one of which is the 120vac out, if it's not there, or if it is way out of spec, they shut down, I mean why waste fuel if you are not generating power.

Since the control board was not properly starting the generator part of the generator, (just the motor) it was not generating power, so when he released the switch, it said "Oh, no power out. OK, SHUT OFF, and it did, worked as designed, save for the one fault which I see he's fixed.

I have seen this before, different fault, but it too resulted in no 120v out. and that's exactly how the generator aceted.. The low oil suggestion is good too, in fact it is the first thing I'd check if mine did that (Mostly cause it is the easiest to fix, I carry spare oil)
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Old 01-08-2012, 09:09 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wa8yxm
I see you found the problem...

Folks many ONAN generators are smarter than many users.. They check several things one of which is the 120vac out, if it's not there, or if it is way out of spec, they shut down, I mean why waste fuel if you are not generating power.

Since the control board was not properly starting the generator part of the generator, (just the motor) it was not generating power, so when he released the switch, it said "Oh, no power out. OK, SHUT OFF, and it did, worked as designed, save for the one fault which I see he's fixed.

I have seen this before, different fault, but it too resulted in no 120v out. and that's exactly how the generator aceted.. The low oil suggestion is good too, in fact it is the first thing I'd check if mine did that (Mostly cause it is the easiest to fix, I carry spare oil)
I had the same problem on mine and it was a reset button that was bad. We checked all the normal protections and they were ok. If you have a push button circuited protector take it off and put the two wires together and see if it runs. If so replace that circuited protector.
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Old 01-09-2012, 02:32 AM   #19
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We have a Power Tech 8.0 KW diesel unit. Several years ago it did the same thing. I found that the armature needed flashing.
There is a special plate in the control box for doing it. Just had to slide the gen out (it's on a slide), open the box and use a 12V power supply applied to the plate and it's ready to go.
Had the same problem on Friday, thought it was the same except I found that one of the circuit breakers was off so the unit was reporting low voltage and shutting down. Once I flipped the breaker it's running fine.
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Old 01-11-2012, 03:20 PM   #20
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Mine was doing the same thing. Took it to a cummins dealer. They had to drop the generator and after tearing it down discovered that the thermostat spring had broke not allowing coolant to circulate. They said it was due to non use. The t-stat and its housing had actually corroded. They replaced housing and t-stat. That has been the end of our problem.
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Old 01-13-2012, 01:51 PM   #21
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Received new control board today. Now running like a top. 14 years old and only 2.7 hours on it. Doesn't blink when pulling a load. Thanks to all for helping with the fix. Saved big bucks.

Jim
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Old 01-13-2012, 02:00 PM   #22
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Received new control board today. Now running like a top. 14 years old and only 2.7 hours on it. Doesn't blink when pulling a load. Thanks to all for helping with the fix. Saved big bucks.

Jim
Congratulations Jim ! Aint life grand
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Old 01-27-2012, 11:00 PM   #23
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My first suggestion is unless you have a wad of money in your checking account do not take it to an Onan Service Center. There are lots of worthy shops out there that will not rip you off.
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Old 01-28-2012, 05:55 AM   #24
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My first suggestion is unless you have a wad of money in your checking account do not take it to an Onan Service Center. There are lots of worthy shops out there that will not rip you off.
I have a hard time paying someone to do somthing that I can do myself - with the support and knowledge from this website. It may take me longer to find the answer but hey I'm retired so time is what I have! You can find anything you need on the internet for just about any DIY project. Thank you all for your support.

Jim
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Old 01-28-2012, 06:58 AM   #25
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A lot of these sites that offer "free" instructions take you to page after page and then want you to pay for the "free" instructions.



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Old 01-28-2012, 10:23 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by rjdelapp View Post
I have a hard time paying someone to do somthing that I can do myself - with the support and knowledge from this website. It may take me longer to find the answer but hey I'm retired so time is what I have! You can find anything you need on the internet for just about any DIY project. Thank you all for your support.

Jim
I spent 1200 dollars at a onan service center in Coburg Oregon and they did not fix the genset. I got back to Roanoke VA. Found a good tech at a onan service center. He found it was a voltage regulator. It cost me another $800 bucks but $500 of it was the regulator if you can believe that. Thats why I suggested he go somewhere else.
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Old 01-29-2012, 09:43 AM   #27
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Onan does make a good product, but their prices are ridiculous.



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Old 08-31-2013, 03:40 PM   #28
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ok please don't be to hard on me as I try to do everything my self. I was/am an auto tech for 44+ yrs. the trouble I am having now is th same as being discussed. I started to replace the board long ago but wanted to prove it was bad. this is not my first rv nor my first genset trouble so I opted to order the G-man tester from flight systems. I was/am impressed with the piece tho it doesn't point as it still leaves some thinking on the operator. hooked to the G-man and the new regulator, I still don't get a field flash unless I hit th field flash test button. then th gen runs and will run longer than I want to listen for.
reading all the littiure that came w/gman and what I had down loaded from the b4, I think I should see the field flash as my board and reg hav both been replaced. now there is a nother set of wires that have male and female connections that look as if u bypass the reg our make it a built in unit. I have seen nothing anywhere that says when and why they should be connected or disconnected.
so I guess I looking for some one out there that isup on the use of the gman.
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