Community Forums

nehmia · 04-10-2016, 03:34 PM

Hello all, we picked up our new 2016 Bounder 33C yesterday. Wife and I are going to full time with it while still employed. I had already pre-purchased upgrades/mods I wanted to do from the start.

One of the upgrades (depending on how you look at it) is the removal of the vacu-flush toilet to install a composting toilet. This included removing the freshwater supply (you may begin grimacing now). Well as I was working, I paused the toilet install as I need to get a few odds and ends from Lowes. I moved on to other things and ended up installing a water pump silencing kit a good bit later in the day. Of course, I should test the install and make sure there are no leaks (ha!). So I made sure faucets are off, but completely forgot about the open water line in the head.

I ran the pump for a good 3-5 minutes, while holding down the little faucet shower in the water bay to let out air and watch the flow. I noticed it was a little weak, but saw no leaks inside the water bay where the silencing kit was installed. So I kill water, clean up hose and tools, and mosey on over to the other side where I hear water running... POURING out the open front door! Oh ****. So I scramble to look where its coming from to no avail. Then I realized the completely open line I left in the head... still needing a cap from Lowes to block it off...

So from the head forward to the entry door, all along the passenger side water ran free. The coach in my driveway is listing about 10 degrees on the passenger side. It leaked through every little hole and crevice into basement bays and along the living space behind cabinets and out the front door. I pressed the battery disconnects and removed the shore tie.

Any ideas on how to clean up this mess? I was thinking of running up to Walmart and picking up a dehumidifier and running it inside the coach all night (from external power, not coach). This really upset me since its brand spanking new, but I quickly realized it is what it is...

edit: I haven't even had the chance to do the new rig show off post in the other sub-forum!

mikf · 04-10-2016, 03:40 PM

Shop vac and suck up what you can.

nehmia · 04-10-2016, 03:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikf

Shop vac and suck up what you can.

That's just it, ALL the water ran along the internal edge of the Bounder's living space. So I have no access to that area behind the cabinets/fridge/furnace. The plus side of that, all the water was running there instead of spreading out.

Old Crows · 04-10-2016, 03:55 PM

Sucks big time, that.

Did that once.... different trick.... same result. But if you are quick like a bunny you can really minimize any potential damage.... especially to the flooring.

First you don't need to buy a dehumidifier. You have one, or more, on the roof ... the air conditioner(s). They will be much more effective circulating the air and removing the moisture.

Mop & wipe up all the water you can.

Open cupboards, closets, drawers..... all of them.... even the overheads.

Turn on the AC(s). Set it about 75-ish. You want the compressor to cycle on and off so the expansion unit doesn't freeze up. (Sorry, you didn't say where you are..... today in TX it's 65... so your setting will vary.} The point is you need the A/C to run to dehumidify but not freeze up the coil with the excess moisture it's going to suck out of the air, body work, hidden spaces.

Set a box fan inside and turn it on.... maybe mid speed ... to circulate the air inside the coach.

Let it run...... and run..... and run. It may take a day.... or more.... but it will remove the excess moisture.

Within a few minutes you should see condensate running off the roof of the RV in a steady stream. Or, if it has an internal draining system.... out the bottom (like on a car).

LookAtUSNow · 04-10-2016, 06:49 PM

I to am experienced in Rv floods. The roof vans may be good if you are in a dry climate but they are only going to remove so much moisture from the air in the rig. I would consider something to get any excess water out of an carpet you may have. I would get at least one maybe preferably two high speed fans and point them down to blow under any furniture or cabinets. Move them to get all angles. If there are access panels remove them, open all the doors. You want as much air flow in the wet areas as you can get. If you are in a humid climate, I'd button up the rig and add the dehumidifier to the fans. Perhaps you can rent a decent size one. The small $50 ones are not going to remove enough moisture, so don't waste your time with them. If any water went into basement, don't forget to open them as well. Keep the air moving. Once you think it is dry, leave the fans foe another day or more if you can. If it is dry where you are, keep the windows open.

nehmia · 04-12-2016, 07:40 AM

Thanks for everyones help, I think it wasn't as bad as I thought. Since all the water stayed to the very edge on the passenger side, the damage was minimal if any at all. Now my only fear is it will cause gremlins to pop up as time goes on.

The lesson learned is priceless and now I have a funny story.

Bruce C · 04-13-2016, 03:01 AM

Sorry to hear that but glad it wasn't as bad as first thought. Enjoy your new Bounder. This is just one of the memories you'll have, the rest will be very enjoyable. Safe, trouble free travels.

mojoracing · 04-13-2016, 07:08 AM

I hope you got it quick enough, just a little bit of water and it wicks up into the cabinet fascia and soon turns the "wood" into cardboard, puffy, soft cardboard covered in woodgrained vinyl. Hope you got it quick enough.

nehmia · 04-13-2016, 10:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mojoracing

I hope you got it quick enough, just a little bit of water and it wicks up into the cabinet fascia and soon turns the "wood" into cardboard, puffy, soft cardboard covered in woodgrained vinyl. Hope you got it quick enough.

Yea that was one of my main concerns, but short of ripping out cabinets I couldn't properly address it the way I wanted to. I did sop up as much as possible with towels, and used damprid packets hanging all over or near the affected areas. I also have a humidifier running and when I can I turn the furnace on for an hour to raise the temp then back off. This is much slower than drying directly, but better than nothing.

I will say though, the best way this could have happened was the way it did happen... the water source came from the toilet supply which is right against the passenger wall. The RV is listing on that side a good amount as well as forward. So the water drained along the very edge, most of it draining through the floor where outlets and light fixtures were installed in the floor for the basement bays. What was left continued behind cabinets and out the open entry door. So if any particle board expansion did happen, its mostly going to be in an area no one can see except where it came out by the entry door. So far I have seen any of the puffiness yet, so feeling a little better.

Betr2Trvl · 04-13-2016, 10:12 AM

Ugh...... Hope you enjoy your new coach. Your floor plan is very similar to our Tiffin, and we love it.

Here's a thought that just came to me...... You'll find more than enough stuff wlll need your "attention" on an RV, so if it's not broken, don't try to fix it.......

Regards

Mike and Cha · 04-13-2016, 10:35 AM

Congrats on the new MH. I would doubt that 3-5 minutes of water running would be enough to cause major damage. The way you describe it, it most likely just ran off and leaked through to the outside, wherever it could. Water is like electricity it goes to the point of least resistance. If you didn't see any pooling that is good. The water pump does not pump as much water as an open water line from a house would as it is not the same pressure. When you say the MH is "listing" could it just be the way it is parked and you didn't pay attention to it before, or was it level to begin with. You don't say where you live, but if you are able to get the MH to a nice arid place like the desert, it will suck all the water you couldn't get out in a day or so. If not just leave all the windows open and let it air out real good. If you have a problem you will probably smell it before you see it. Good Luck and have many safe and happy travels.

And I agree with Betr2trvl...if it's not broken don't try to fix it. You will find enough to do without looking for more, 90% of the stuff in a MH will work as advertised, the other 10% we probably mess up on our own.

mojoracing · 04-13-2016, 10:52 AM

The reason I know about issues with cabinets and water is that I had it happen to me. Unbeknownst to me, the P-trap under the sink had come loose and fallen off while driving. When we arrived at the park we went about our day which included washing dishes. All of a sudden, my feet were getting wet. I opened the cabinet under the sink and saw the problem. I was a bit lucky as I had a plastic bin directly under the p-trap to hold household cleaners and such and it filled that before overflowing. I took the bottom out of the cabinet by unscrewing it and dried everything under the cabinet by accessing the area by removing adjacent drawers. Even though it was a small amount of water, the face frame and baseboard of the cabinet became mushy and soft within a day. I ended up having the dealer replace the effected wood (if you can call it that). Wrapped cabinets are really my only complaint about my Bounder. I've thought about building solid wood cabinet face frames for all the cabinets in the motorhome. I dont think it would be that hard and I doubt the cabinets and counters would have to be removed to do so.

Dutch Star Don · 04-13-2016, 04:19 PM

Just keep the fans running for several days, even if you think it's dry. After about 4-5 days you should be fine.

nehmia · 04-14-2016, 02:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Betr2Trvl

Here's a thought that just came to me...... You'll find more than enough stuff wlll need your "attention" on an RV, so if it's not broken, don't try to fix it.......

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike and Cha

And I agree with Betr2trvl...if it's not broken don't try to fix it. You will find enough to do without looking for more, 90% of the stuff in a MH will work as advertised, the other 10% we probably mess up on our own.

This is wisdom that should never go unheeded, however this is a modification that my wife and I have decided on doing for the past 2 years, well before we purchased the MH. Not so much looking to fix anything, but rather preference drove me to do this mod. Now, when I go to cut a 3 or 4 inch hole right smack dab in the middle of the wall... I will be paying more attention (W/D install).

Quote:

Originally Posted by mojoracing

The reason I know about issues with cabinets and water is that I had it happen to me. Unbeknownst to me, the P-trap under the sink had come loose and fallen off while driving. When we arrived at the park we went about our day which included washing dishes. All of a sudden, my feet were getting wet. I opened the cabinet under the sink and saw the problem. I was a bit lucky as I had a plastic bin directly under the p-trap to hold household cleaners and such and it filled that before overflowing. I took the bottom out of the cabinet by unscrewing it and dried everything under the cabinet by accessing the area by removing adjacent drawers. Even though it was a small amount of water, the face frame and baseboard of the cabinet became mushy and soft within a day. I ended up having the dealer replace the effected wood (if you can call it that). Wrapped cabinets are really my only complaint about my Bounder. I've thought about building solid wood cabinet face frames for all the cabinets in the motorhome. I dont think it would be that hard and I doubt the cabinets and counters would have to be removed to do so.

I hear you, wrapped press board is never durable. However it's good to look at it from both point of views, it is also much cheaper and lighter so in a MH like the Bounder, it makes some semblance of sense. The solid wood fronts sound like it would be much nicer. I can't imagine it would add to much extra weight, but that would be my only concern.