New owner put first fresh water in it

[J-Frame]

Yes I read the Manuel Not city water holding tank turned on water pump switch pump ran I had water pressure and water at the sinks. But I have no hot water . I put the bottom anode in before the fill campers plugged in to 120 v propane is full etc. The propane came on for a while the heater door got hot put no hot water it shut itself off after a while. Tried electric no go also. I need help please. Thanks

[tpaul]

And you are sure that the hot water tank bypass for winterizing is in the right direction? You got water coming out of the pressure relief valve when you filled the water tank?

[hclark6345]

Has your vehicle been winterized ?
When we bought our first RV it had been winterized by the dealer which included bypassing the water heater.
In the spring when we added water the propane water heater would light but only run for a short period and then shut itself off. We could only get cold water from the faucets.
Back to the dealer and they showed us that the bypassed water heater tank was empty so when the propane came on the overheat control on the heater would immediately shut it off due to no water in the tank.
Opening the bypass valve fixed the problem.

[J-Frame]

Sounds like my problem. Runs for a while then shuts down. Much thanks

[Skip426]

Note : if the tank was dry and you turned on the 120 volt ; there is a very good chance the 120 element is fried .

[J-Frame]

Yes I to say that’s probably true And I did. My bad We thought the tank was full. Looks like I will be buying a new one. Not to expensive and hard to change out I think. Maybe buy a spare to have. This camper has been a learning experience for sure but it will come together . We still have sometime before real spring and a green Alaska Thanks to all

[Skip426]

A hint on the electric element replacement .

Do not purchase the RV tool for changing the element ; it WILL break .

Get to NAPA/Auto Zone for a 1 1/2" six point 1/2" drive socket ; it'll cost about the same , and it will never break .

[J-Frame]

Good advice. I just happen to 1 1/2 socket. Thanks

[DutchmenSport]

Originally Posted by Skip426

A hint on the electric element replacement .

Do not purchase the RV tool for changing the element ; it WILL break .

Get to NAPA/Auto Zone for a 1 1/2" six point 1/2" drive socket ; it'll cost about the same , and it will never break .

When I had to replace my heating element, I learned the hard way that the non-RV socket would not work. Oh, it was the right size alright. The problem was the way the tank was made. The socket would not fit inside a very tight grooved area around the water heater element threaded nut. I hunted and searched out several RV dealership parts shops for an actual RV water heater socket. I finally found one and it worked just fine.

Those sockets have a very thin thickness making them possible to fit over the nut without the side of the tank stoppping it from entering that groove.

I spent over $20 for that original socket and another $30 or more for the ratchet that fit it. I only had the smaller socket wrenches.

So, before investing any $$$ make sure the socket will actually fit.

[tpaul]

Originally Posted by J-Frame

Yes I to say that’s probably true And I did. My bad We thought the tank was full. Looks like I will be buying a new one. Not to expensive and hard to change out I think. Maybe buy a spare to have. This camper has been a learning experience for sure but it will come together . We still have sometime before real spring and a green Alaska Thanks to all

I just replaced mine. 6 years old. It's pretty easy. Actually didn't look too bad considering the hard water it gets exposed to. Just make sure that the electricity to the water heater is turned off. It's 110V so to be sure I disconnected the power cord to the RV. Then, as you have discovered, make sure the water tank is filled before turning on the electrical element. Fill with water from your tank or outside water connection until it runs out of the opened pressure relief valve. Turn off the water. Shut the valve. That leaves an air pocket in the top that allows for expansion. I generally do that a few days before out trip so that the water in the tank doesn't get old or smelly. Same with filling the fresh water tank. Also use Purogene in the the fresh water tank to control bacteria and slime. Avoids the aftertaste of chlorine.

[bigb56]

You may be lucky, on my 6 gallon there is always some water in the bottom that covers the element, the only way to get it out is to remove the element. The drain doesn't get it out. I'd say it's close to a gallon, when I replaced my element first I sucked as much as I could out with a shop vac but when I removed the element I still got out nearly a gallon.

Check it for resistance, it should be somewhere between about 8 and 10 ohms depending on wattage. Best to check with both wires removed and of course all power killed.

[J-Frame]

Got 10 gallon water heater full got nice and hot on gas. Turned off gas tried the electric but then suddenly I have no water pressure and water pump will not run . Filled fresh water full . Checked fuses and breakers nothing Very frustrating

[DutchmenSport]

Originally Posted by J-Frame

Got 10 gallon water heater full got nice and hot on gas. Turned off gas tried the electric but then suddenly I have no water pressure and water pump will not run . Filled fresh water full . Checked fuses and breakers nothing Very frustrating

Perhaps, did you flip the water pump flip switch off when you flipped the switch off for gas and the switch on for electric? (3 switches involved here)??? Just asking?

On my panel in my camper, all 3 of these switches are right beside each other and I REALLY have to remember which switch is witch.

Do you have water flow if you hook up the garden hose and run on shore water and turn the water pump off?

[J-Frame]

Not tried city water yet. What would that prove no blockage in lines. It’s a new camper