New owners - need help with RV fridge

[beautimoose]

I need help from some of the more experienced folks in here - or someone who is just generally smarter than me - on determining what my best next steps are for my RV fridge.

It's not keeping a consistent temperature. We are not sure if we need to replace it, or if it's a ventilation issue that will not be solved even with a new fridge. If we do need to replace it, we don't know what the best thing to replace it with is. If it is a ventilation issue, we don't want to spend thousands to purchase a new fridge and have it give us the exact same issue.

The RV is a 2016 Thor Palazzo. There's no ventilation behind the fridge. Nothing. No vents that go outside, just an enclosed cabinet. There's only about 2" of space above the top of the fridge, if that, and no space on the sides. The fridge coils are in the back of the fridge at the bottom. This is what's currently in the space. Guessing the fridge is original with the rig, so probably about 11 years old. The fridge is also next to the cabinet containing the furnace. It's even worse at keeping cold with the furnace running, though it doesn't keep a consistent temp even without the furnace running.

We have already tried pulling the fridge out and cleaning the coils in the back, and replacing the thermostat. We have tested seals and they appear to be good. We are considering trying to cut a hole in the back of the cabinet towards the bottom next to where the coils are, and installing an extra fan to help with ventilation. The fan would vent into the cabinet next to the fridge which goes into the kitchen. We have also considered installing a thin sheet of radiant heat blocking insulation between the fridge and furnace space, but we don't know if this will help anything.

Is there anyone who can help me figure out what I should do next? Below are some photos of what the fridge does plugged into 50A shore power without any use, and with the furnace not running - the photos show the pattern over the course of a few days, and over the last month.

The dealer where we bought the RV said the fridge was probably just old and recommended upgrading to a new 12v model. But he also isn't an expert and was making a general recommendation. I am going to try reaching out to a few fridge sales+repair places, but I also know they have an incentive to sell me a new fridge. I would like to crowd source additional info from folks who may have been here before, so I can arm myself with knowledge before I talk to them. Any help is appreciated!

[crb478]

This may seem over simplistic, but pull the refrigerator out and monitor the temps with it pulled out. If it runs as expected it is likely a circulation issue, if it is still not operating correcting it's probably a charge issue. As for 12 volt refrigerators I have a Dometic and love it, but I don't know how 16 cf models are out there.

[beautimoose]

This is a really helpful suggestion, thank you! That idea didn't occur to us. We'll give that a shot this week and see if it makes a difference.

[DFord]

It sounds like you've got a standard RV absorption refrigerator. The biggest issue to ensure they work properly is to keep them level.

[Sam 3]

Some have installed extra computer fans. We are unable to do this. We use a cheap cube fan that takes two D batteries. DH put a piece of wire around it so it holds its shape. It sits on a ref. shelf. You have been given some good tips to try.

[Skip426]

Get the installation instructions from the fridge manufacturer's web site and make sure all the installation is done according to those instructions .

The fridge you posted the link to, is a fairly high end model , and I doubt it is original to the RV.
Any fridge used in the space you describe would have to be approved for " alcove " space installation , and even then would probably call for bigger vents and more clearance at the sides.

[Persistent]

Originally Posted by DFord

It sounds like you've got a standard RV absorption refrigerator. The biggest issue to ensure they work properly is to keep them level.

An RV absorption refrigerator needs a pair of external vents allowing circulation on the back side of the refrigerator. The OP states there are no vents in the space behind the refrigerator. It is unlikely to be an absorption refrigerator.

I have a 12 volt compressor type refrigerator. It works great. It has about 2 inches of vent clearance at the top of the refrigerator alcove. I looked at the installation instructions for my refrigerator make and model. 2 inches is the correct top vent size. Sides have essentially zero clearance. Bottom shares space with the heating system.

Look up the installation instructions for your make and model of refrigerator. Contact the manufacturer customer support, possibly on-line.

[hamm2018]

Originally Posted by beautimoose

I need help from some of the more experienced folks in here - or someone who is just generally smarter than me - on determining what my best next steps are for my RV fridge.

It's not keeping a consistent temperature. We are not sure if we need to replace it, or if it's a ventilation issue that will not be solved even with a new fridge. If we do need to replace it, we don't know what the best thing to replace it with is. If it is a ventilation issue, we don't want to spend thousands to purchase a new fridge and have it give us the exact same issue.

The RV is a 2016 Thor Palazzo. There's no ventilation behind the fridge. Nothing. No vents that go outside, just an enclosed cabinet. There's only about 2" of space above the top of the fridge, if that, and no space on the sides. The fridge coils are in the back of the fridge at the bottom. This is what's currently in the space. Guessing the fridge is original with the rig, so probably about 11 years old. The fridge is also next to the cabinet containing the furnace. It's even worse at keeping cold with the furnace running, though it doesn't keep a consistent temp even without the furnace running.

We have already tried pulling the fridge out and cleaning the coils in the back, and replacing the thermostat. We have tested seals and they appear to be good. We are considering trying to cut a hole in the back of the cabinet towards the bottom next to where the coils are, and installing an extra fan to help with ventilation. The fan would vent into the cabinet next to the fridge which goes into the kitchen. We have also considered installing a thin sheet of radiant heat blocking insulation between the fridge and furnace space, but we don't know if this will help anything.

Is there anyone who can help me figure out what I should do next? Below are some photos of what the fridge does plugged into 50A shore power without any use, and with the furnace not running - the photos show the pattern over the course of a few days, and over the last month.

The dealer where we bought the RV said the fridge was probably just old and recommended upgrading to a new 12v model. But he also isn't an expert and was making a general recommendation. I am going to try reaching out to a few fridge sales+repair places, but I also know they have an incentive to sell me a new fridge. I would like to crowd source additional info from folks who may have been here before, so I can arm myself with knowledge before I talk to them. Any help is appreciated!

That fridge looks like it is a 120VAC residential style. But could not find any information on the power requirements. Is your fridge a residential style or an RV style fridge? Does it operate on 120VAC only or gas as well?

Friends of our, just replaced their RV fridge with a residential style. They picked up a new model at Lowes for a good price.

Residential style fridge does not require any ventilation in the rear on the outside walls as you see on some rigs. Clearance is determined by the maker of the fridge, as stated prior in above posts.

If you decide to replace, make sure you measure the door opening to get the fridge in/out without issues. Go looking for a fridge that fits those measurements not your eyes. Check on how you will be required to get the fridge in/out before buying.

Our residential does a great job for us.

[beautimoose]

Originally Posted by hamm2018

That fridge looks like it is a 120VAC residential style. But could not find any information on the power requirements. Is your fridge a residential style or an RV style fridge? Does it operate on 120VAC only or gas as well?

Friends of our, just replaced their RV fridge with a residential style. They picked up a new model at Lowes for a good price.

Residential style fridge does not require any ventilation in the rear on the outside walls as you see on some rigs. Clearance is determined by the maker of the fridge, as stated prior in above posts.

If you decide to replace, make sure you measure the door opening to get the fridge in/out without issues. Go looking for a fridge that fits those measurements not your eyes. Check on how you will be required to get the fridge in/out before buying.

Our residential does a great job for us.

Sorry, I thought the specs were in that link I posted, but I guess not. This is the model we currently have: https://www.whirlpool.com/kitchen/refrigeration/refrigerators/top-freezer/p.28-inch-wide-top-freezer-refrigerator-16-cu.-ft.wrt316sfdm.html

It is a 115v electric only residential.

I dug through some old Thor forums, and I do believe it was the original one the manufacturer used in this coach model. Though they seem to have given people some issues. The jury is out on whether or not Thor selected and installed a proper fridge for this coach. I do know I'll be looking at probably popping out the windshield or one of the window frames if it does need to be replaced since the narrowest dimension on the fridge is 2" wider than the door even with the fridge doors and brackets removed

[Old-Biscuit]

What setting is the Temp Control On??

What setting is the Airflow Control On??

[hamm2018]

Originally Posted by beautimoose

Sorry, I thought the specs were in that link I posted, but I guess not. This is the model we currently have: https://www.whirlpool.com/kitchen/re...rt316sfdm.html

It is a 115v electric only residential.

I dug through some old Thor forums, and I do believe it was the original one the manufacturer used in this coach model. Though they seem to have given people some issues. The jury is out on whether or not Thor selected and installed a proper fridge for this coach. I do know I'll be looking at probably popping out the windshield or one of the window frames if it does need to be replaced since the narrowest dimension on the fridge is 2" wider than the door even with the fridge doors and brackets removed

If you take the door frame out, will that give you to room to go out thru the entrance door.

Sometimes, the fridges can be taken out thru the driver's side window. Removing the windshield, you going to run the risk of breaking it. Then additional cost to repair the windshield.

[tap4154]

If it's a residential fridge running off 120 volts, you need more ventilation than just a 2-in gap on the top. They are not designed to be built in, unless it's a fridge that is designed to be built in, which would have a large grill at the top for ventilation. If it's an absorption fridge and you have no ventilation on the back or top, then it's never going to work.

[RVfixit]

Originally Posted by crb478

This may seem over simplistic, but pull the refrigerator out and monitor the temps with it pulled out. If it runs as expected it is likely a circulation issue, if it is still not operating correcting it's probably a charge issue. As for 12 volt refrigerators I have a Dometic and love it, but I don't know how 16 cf models are out there.

There are several things to note about your refrigerator. First, it has a condenser fan motor that if not running would affect the cooling ability. The condenser coil fins need to be clean in order to be effective. From what your describing, it sounds like a low charge which if true, being a sealed system, would indicate a minor leak. As others have mentioned, for the cost of a new unit I would just replace the refrigerator after confirming that the coils are clean and the fans running. As far as venting, that one vents through the bottom, you should see a space at the bottom of the fridge with warm air coming out of it when running.

Last, if it were me, I would not go to an absorption unit. they work well but struggle on hot days and cooling is slower than a standard fridge. You have a 120v unit with an inverter that runs the fridge when not on shore power. If you have already confirmed that the inverter is working correctly and that the battery bank is all good, its new fridge time!

Good Luck and Safe Travels!

[PappaBull]

just a thought are the door seals sealing as they should? seems the fridge must have worked for the PO so maybe sitting not being used the seals may have dried out.