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Old 01-06-2022, 06:22 PM   #1
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No display on Norcold 1210 refrigerator

2008 Fleetwood discovery. Refrigerator is a Norcold model 1210 imd. Was running fine on propane but wouldn't run on A/C. Gave me a "No AC" error on the display. I found a blown 8 amp fuse in the control board at the rear of the fridge, replaced it. Was excited to find the fuse and thought it to be a simple fix. With the fuse replaced, I now have 120 volts on both sides of the a/c 8 amp fuse--show 12 volts on both sides of the 5 amp fuse on the dc fuse...however, now my fridge is totally dead. Was running fine on propane, but now it won't run at all and even the display is dead. Both a/c outlets read 120 volts, both fuses are good, don't even have a display now. I can't read an electrical schematic so I can't figure out how even the propane side doesn't work now. Please help. Thanks.
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Old 01-06-2022, 08:25 PM   #2
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Display/controls/functions (gas & electric) are ALL 12VDC

Open Service Manual LINK ---start on pg 12 and follow the troubleshooting steps thru pg 17

http://www.rvrefrigeratorrepair.com/...d-Service-1210

Bad fuse terminals, Bad harness connector at P1, bad harness, bad circuit board, bad upper optical board??
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Old 01-07-2022, 02:06 PM   #3
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Thank you sir.
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Old 01-09-2022, 01:34 PM   #4
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I have a Norcold 1200LRIM in our 2001 Monaco Knight. I get no power to the fridge and have confirmed the power is going to the main board. I got a short time fix when I unplugged the power to the board but it failed shortly later. I suspect this has corrosion on the connectors and maybe other parts of the board based on a visual inspection. I have disconnected the 120 V and the turned the gas off but still am getting a clicking sound that I cannot determine the source. I suspect the 12 volt function might be trying to take control. I believe I need to replace the board but do not want to start to disconnect wires while it is making this noise. Suggestions? Also, where is the best place to get a replacement control board for this unit that wont cost more that it is worth?

Thanks,
Gordon
2001 Monaco Knight 36' Pusher
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Old 01-09-2022, 01:47 PM   #5
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More specifics, please. Did you verify both 120v and 12v power? And what do you mean "no power to the fridge" when you claim there is power to the main board?

The 120v solely powers the electric heat element - it does nothing else. Removing 120v power assures that AC mode will be bypassed and gas mode attempted. Turning off the gas valve doesn't prevent the main circuit board from trying to ignite the gas burner. Without a gas supply it can't be successful, of course, but the igniter still clicks as it tries.

Nothing you have described so far makes me think the circuit board is bad. It would be well down my list of suspected problems.


Perhaps you should start by describing in detail what the fridge does or doesn't do. Does it cool at all? In AC mode or LP Gas mode? What does the control panel display? Are the lights lit? Any faults shown?
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Old 01-09-2022, 06:13 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Knight Bus View Post
I have a Norcold 1200LRIM in our 2001 Monaco Knight. I get no power to the fridge and have confirmed the power is going to the main board. I got a short time fix when I unplugged the power to the board but it failed shortly later. I suspect this has corrosion on the connectors and maybe other parts of the board based on a visual inspection. I have disconnected the 120 V and the turned the gas off but still am getting a clicking sound that I cannot determine the source. I suspect the 12 volt function might be trying to take control. I believe I need to replace the board but do not want to start to disconnect wires while it is making this noise. Suggestions? Also, where is the best place to get a replacement control board for this unit that wont cost more that it is worth?

Thanks,
Gordon
2001 Monaco Knight 36' Pusher
Fridge, circuit board, upper display all use 12VDC for functioning

Clicking...that is probably the AC Sensing Relay (DC powered) that allows 120VAC functions

You stated " I get no power to the fridge and have confirmed the power is going to the main board."
Got BOTH 120VAC AND 12VDC on circuit board?


Replacement board----3 different versions were used based on S/N
See pg 19 Item #2
https://norcold.com/wp-content/uploa...0_20200513.pdf
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Old 01-10-2022, 06:49 PM   #7
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I bought my board from Amazon. You must know your refrigerators serial number to get the right board, not just the model number. Boards range from $50 to $240. However, from Amazon, most of’em have free returns if you happen to get the wrong one or discover you don’t need it. Other suppliers likely don’t offer that.
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Old 01-10-2022, 06:53 PM   #8
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He probably means no power on the display in the front. Inside the rv, fridge seems dead. Mine did the same thing. Power in the rear on the board, no power or display in the front.
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Old 01-10-2022, 07:16 PM   #9
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He probably means no power on the display in the front. Inside the rv, fridge seems dead. Mine did the same thing. Power in the rear on the board, no power or display in the front.

He who?

This is YOUR thread..........
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Old 01-10-2022, 07:23 PM   #10
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Confusing. Other post within my post with similar issue and questions asked about that post. Was trying to be helpful. Sorry. I thought my post was VERY clear about where I had power.
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Old 01-10-2022, 08:55 PM   #11
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ah yes...........post within post

mea cupa
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Old 01-12-2022, 12:57 PM   #12
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Got a replacement from Amazon

I discovered a part of the circuit board has the soldering cracked. I got the replacement from Amazon and it is now working great. Thanks for al the help.
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Old 01-12-2022, 01:23 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marty G. View Post
Confusing. Other post within my post with similar issue and questions asked about that post. Was trying to be helpful. Sorry. I thought my post was VERY clear about where I had power.
Very good, now could you enlighten us by posting a post in your post on your outcome? You mentioned you got a board, and....?
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Old 01-12-2022, 05:39 PM   #14
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Quote:
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I discovered a part of the circuit board has the soldering cracked. I got the replacement from Amazon and it is now working great. Thanks for al the help.
If the solder is cracked around a post its a cold solder joint. If it's a cracked trace, that's different. If that's all it is, both can be repaired. But then you now have a new board. Glad you got it fixed.
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