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Old 04-08-2014, 03:08 PM   #15
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An N821 probably does not have the recall box; very few did. However, it can have a type of recall. Some of those do have thermal disc breakers on the flue.

Find where the 12V main comes in, and check it there. If it's low there, then it's a coach issue. If it's good, keep following it until you lose voltage.
Ok, I found the 12vdc supply on the distribution panel in the basement. There is 13.5vdc there. At the end of that wire, where it terminates and plugs into the fridge board, there is only 2.2-2.5vdc. I would assume there is a break/short somewhere in this wire. Trying to find where this wire is routed, is proving to be difficult. Also, I turned off the coach 12v supply at the main disconnect in the battery bay, and just for giggles checked the fridge 12v supply at the distribution panel, and still had 9vdc. I found that to be strange.

Any advice?

Thanks guys...

Vern
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Old 04-08-2014, 03:13 PM   #16
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Might be easier to just run a new wire.

Maybe you have some hungry vermin in which case, be prepared for more
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Old 04-09-2014, 08:43 AM   #17
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Ok, I found the 12vdc supply on the distribution panel in the basement. There is 13.5vdc there. At the end of that wire, where it terminates and plugs into the fridge board, there is only 2.2-2.5vdc. I would assume there is a break/short somewhere in this wire. Trying to find where this wire is routed, is proving to be difficult. Also, I turned off the coach 12v supply at the main disconnect in the battery bay, and just for giggles checked the fridge 12v supply at the distribution panel, and still had 9vdc. I found that to be strange.

Any advice?

Thanks guys...

Vern
Try disconnecting the 12V feed from the control panel terminal at the fridge board; then check the voltage. A board with a short will pull your voltage down. Next disconnect both ends of the 12V supply wire and test it using a multi meter set on (ohm) for resistance, and check between the wire and ground. That will tell you if you have a short. If it comes up as open to ground ( no continuity ) that is good means no short. Next, touch one end to ground, then at the other end of the wire, test between the wire and ground and you SHOULD get continuity, thus the wire is good.

Scott
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Old 04-09-2014, 11:28 AM   #18
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Try disconnecting the 12V feed from the control panel terminal at the fridge board; then check the voltage. A board with a short will pull your voltage down. Next disconnect both ends of the 12V supply wire and test it using a multi meter set on (ohm) for resistance, and check between the wire and ground. That will tell you if you have a short. If it comes up as open to ground ( no continuity ) that is good means no short. Next, touch one end to ground, then at the other end of the wire, test between the wire and ground and you SHOULD get continuity, thus the wire is good.

Scott
Hi Scott... I did disconnect the 12v feed from the board and checked voltage, thats where is get 2.0v, so it's not the board causing the voltage drop. I will try the test you recommend. I was thinking if the wire was bare and shorting, "open" the circuit breaker would trip, or I would have no voltage not low voltage. Weird problem.

Thanks for the advice.

Vern
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Old 04-09-2014, 11:48 AM   #19
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Hi Scott... I did disconnect the 12v feed from the board and checked voltage, thats where is get 2.0v, so it's not the board causing the voltage drop. I will try the test you recommend. I was thinking if the wire was bare and shorting, "open" the circuit breaker would trip, or I would have no voltage not low voltage. Weird problem.

Thanks for the advice.

Vern
Good to hear, the wire is an easy fix...circuit board not so much
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Old 04-09-2014, 01:47 PM   #20
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Good to hear, the wire is an easy fix...circuit board not so much
I ran a 12v wire from a near by source and the fridge powered up as normal. It's a temporary fix. I need to either figure out what is causing the voltage drop on the existing wire or run a new one. Running a new one from the main panel is not going to be easy!! Lots of wire loom, wire ties, and about 25 feet of distance.

Thanks for all your help.

Vern
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Old 04-09-2014, 02:50 PM   #21
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Hi Scott... I did disconnect the 12v feed from the board and checked voltage, thats where is get 2.0v, so it's not the board causing the voltage drop. I will try the test you recommend. I was thinking if the wire was bare and shorting, "open" the circuit breaker would trip, or I would have no voltage not low voltage. Weird problem.

Thanks for the advice.

Vern
That is weird!
With no load at all, you should see either 12V or 0V on the wire. Are you sure you are checking both ends of the same wire?
Even if there is a problem with the wire (high resistance), with no load you should see 12V. The resistance requires current flow to drop 10V. Your meter should be minimal current. Certainly much less than the fridge.
If the wire is open-circuit, you'll get 0V.

Very strange indeed.
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Old 04-09-2014, 03:12 PM   #22
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I ran a 12v wire from a near by source and the fridge powered up as normal. It's a temporary fix. I need to either figure out what is causing the voltage drop on the existing wire or run a new one. Running a new one from the main panel is not going to be easy!! Lots of wire loom, wire ties, and about 25 feet of distance.

Thanks for all your help.

Vern
Easy fix would be to ground the unit locally, all the negatives including the chasis should be common, and convert the original negative wire into a positive. Should work shouldn't it ???
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Old 04-09-2014, 03:28 PM   #23
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Easy fix would be to ground the unit locally, all the negatives including the chasis should be common, and convert the original negative wire into a positive. Should work shouldn't it ???
A good idea, unless the negative wire is also a negative feed wire for another 12 vdc devise. Then what?

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Old 04-09-2014, 03:50 PM   #24
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Possibly the meter has an erroneous reading?
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Old 04-09-2014, 03:57 PM   #25
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A good idea, unless the negative wire is also a negative feed wire for another 12 vdc devise. Then what?

Sammie
I think bonding all the negatives locally would be suffice
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Old 04-08-2016, 11:38 PM   #26
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Easy fix would be to ground the unit locally, all the negatives including the chasis should be common, and convert the original negative wire into a positive. Should work shouldn't it ???
I am having the same problem with that 12 v wire going to the Norcold control board. Did you find how Holiday Rambler source the circuit.
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