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Old 04-12-2013, 07:38 PM   #1
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NoCold Refrigerator Compartment

Norcold 1200 Fridg will not cool lower compartment while the freezer compartments appear to be operating properly with the exception of a lower ice harvest.

AC voltage input is ok. DC voltage input is ok. AC and DC fuses on power board are ok. Norcold recall fix (x3) is operating properly. Same symptoms in AC or LP mode.

Manual indicates that there is an obstruction along back of fridge cooling unit. No obstruction..Checked from top and bottom of unit.

Don't have a schematic of the unit and not sure it has cooling fans mounted in the rear of the unit. At any rate, can't see any fans from top or bottom and DW can't hear any motors running. My hearing is shot after 28 years working around artillery guns.

OK...Where do I go from here?? Any suggestions??
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Old 04-12-2013, 07:51 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chief View Post
Norcold 1200 Fridg will not cool lower compartment while the freezer compartments appear to be operating properly with the exception of a lower ice harvest.

AC voltage input is ok. DC voltage input is ok. AC and DC fuses on power board are ok. Norcold recall fix (x3) is operating properly. Same symptoms in AC or LP mode.

Manual indicates that there is an obstruction along back of fridge cooling unit. No obstruction..Checked from top and bottom of unit.

Don't have a schematic of the unit and not sure it has cooling fans mounted in the rear of the unit. At any rate, can't see any fans from top or bottom and DW can't hear any motors running. My hearing is shot after 28 years working around artillery guns.

OK...Where do I go from here?? Any suggestions??
They may be saying that the obstruction is INSIDE the cooling unit. On some of them you can SOMETIMES clear it by removing the refer from the cabinet and turning it on it's top for a day. If that doesn't work you need to replace the cooling unit or replace the refer.
A lot of us have gone to the Amish cooling units from RV Cooling Unit Warehouse LLC Home Page David Force is the man behind it and good to deal with.
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Old 04-12-2013, 08:03 PM   #3
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Chief, Try taking your coach for a drive and try going down a bumpy or curvey road. This may dislodge any obstruction that there may be inside the cooling unit coils. Also you will need to let the refrigerator sit for several hours without opening the doors to let it reach its normal cold temperature ( 32 to 38 degrees ).

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Old 04-12-2013, 08:20 PM   #4
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I love reading these posts about cooling problems with the Norcold 12XX. It brings back some of the memories and flashbacks of all the hoops that I jumped through trying to get the POS to work correctly.

Never did happen. Threw it out the window and brought in a different fridge.

The freezer is now always -3F to -10F and the fridge section is always 36F to 38F.

No more spoiled food, rotten milk or soupy ice cream.

Good luck, Chief!

Hang in there, it can't get any worse but it does.

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Old 04-12-2013, 09:31 PM   #5
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I'm sure that everyone who owns a Norcold refrigerator and has had problems with it wishes they could afford to buy a new residential type or at the very least a new absorption type. Most who write in with a problem only wishes to get an honest reply on how to fix their refrigerator without shelling out a ton of money. The original OP has a legitiment question and deserves our best effort in a quick and easy fix ( if possible ) and not a lecture on how the best cure is replacing said unit with an expensive new residential type refrigerator. Just my 2 cents.

Good Luck Chief
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Old 04-12-2013, 09:34 PM   #6
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Here is a PDF of your fridge the fans have a heat thermistor on cooling coil that may be defective and may need to be replaced.
The 1200 like mine needs these fans to get the hot air out of rear vent area.
If its a warm day the fans will cycle on and off if its hot they will run all the time.
What you can do is place a fan 110 or 12v in lower vent aimed upward and see if cooling improves until you can resolve the normal cooling fan problem.
If you find that those two fans are working than leave the added fan and see if lower box temps do drop.
Some of us have installed two fans in lower vent area for better lower box temps.
In the sticky for Norcold recalls links will take you to things I have described here.
The 1200 is on recall as the sticky will indicate.
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Old 04-13-2013, 06:40 AM   #7
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Just to add some helpful problem solving things to look for when you are not getting good correct cooling from your refigerator of either Norcold or Dometic.
The above replies about the fans, All Norcold 1200 must have fan running or any refigerator in a slide out must have fans.
The fans used or added, are installed to get air flow through the condenser fins not there it remove heat from the compartment. Besure you have no more than 1/4 inch gap from condenser fins to RV wall. The more air through the condenser the better the cooling will be inside your food zone.
If you have a gap of 2 inch or more your food zone temps will rise in hot weather due to the fact most air flow is going around condenser fins. In case RV's do not know what the condenser fin is, it's the fins at the top of cooling unit rear section. Lot of RV tech's think keeping heat out of compartment or air flow through the lower coils is all that's needed, not the case. 100 degree ambient air is cold to the cooling unit so if that cold 100 degree went through the condenser as it should your cooling unit will stay cool during the hottest weather.
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Old 04-13-2013, 07:31 AM   #8
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I'm sure that everyone who owns a Norcold refrigerator and has had problems with it wishes they could afford to buy a new residential type or at the very least a new absorption type. Most who write in with a problem only wishes to get an honest reply on how to fix their refrigerator without shelling out a ton of money. The original OP has a legitimate question and deserves our best effort in a quick and easy fix ( if possible ) and not a lecture on how the best cure is replacing said unit with an expensive new residential type refrigerator. Just my 2 cents.

Good Luck Chief
Sammie
Sammie,

With a search of just this site alone using the term Norcold, one will have hundreds of hours of reading and possibly thousands about Norcold 1200 problems and fixes. I personally have made a significant amount of posts about my Norcold 1200 cooling problems and fixes that I had tried.

Truthfully, it never ends. If someone wants to improve the cooling of their 1200, then remove the NotSoCold cooling unit and install the Amish cooling unit sold by David Force. However, you still end up with many problems with the leftover Norcold Box.

There are options for the Chief, it just depends on what he wants to do.

Not to beat a dead horse into the ground but the best cure for any Norcold problem is to remove it. An old fashion ice chest would be better than the NoCold! That's what my neighbor decided to do.

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Old 04-13-2013, 09:10 AM   #9
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Norcold = NEVER-Cold.

Replace the cooling unit with an Amish Cooling unit. While it is out, make sure the baffles in the back of the area are properly installed.

Ken
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Old 04-13-2013, 09:35 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chief View Post
Norcold 1200 Fridg will not cool lower compartment while the freezer compartments appear to be operating properly with the exception of a lower ice harvest.

AC voltage input is ok. DC voltage input is ok. AC and DC fuses on power board are ok. Norcold recall fix (x3) is operating properly. Same symptoms in AC or LP mode.

Manual indicates that there is an obstruction along back of fridge cooling unit. No obstruction..Checked from top and bottom of unit.

Don't have a schematic of the unit and not sure it has cooling fans mounted in the rear of the unit. At any rate, can't see any fans from top or bottom and DW can't hear any motors running. My hearing is shot after 28 years working around artillery guns.

OK...Where do I go from here?? Any suggestions??
As suggested, for test purposes, try one or more fans to improve air circulation (assuming you are parked and can stick portable fans in various locations). Then, decide where your dollar threshold is for attempting to fix the existing unit. The trick is sticking to your cutoff and when to stop throwing money at it. I gave up after one day on an old Dometic that, even if I had replaced a lot of parts, would still have been "an old Dometic".
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Old 04-26-2013, 12:16 PM   #11
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Thanks to all who repied. Problem solved, at least for the near term. took Sammie's advise and drove around on roads that had a lot of sharp curves. fridg is now @ 36 degrees and has been for several days. Sometimes the simplest solution works. I will also keep in mind the Amish cooling unit as my problems with NoCold seems to run in threes. Again, thanks to all.
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Old 04-30-2013, 12:19 PM   #12
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Chief, Try taking your coach for a drive and try going down a bumpy or curvey road. This may dislodge any obstruction that there may be inside the cooling unit coils. Also you will need to let the refrigerator sit for several hours without opening the doors to let it reach its normal cold temperature ( 32 to 38 degrees ).

Sammie
First time caller (as they say) Sammie that is an interesting repair tactic I must say but hey whatever works.
From reading many threads here since finding this great site this morning I too am among the lucky to have Norcold 1200 issues . Mine although similar in appearance is different. Yesterday I received a "no co" alarm but not because of obstruction because unit runs and cools fine on LP. My alarm came about after I isolated one of the two heater elements that was causing either the 5A fuse or the circuit breaker to trip. Once I disconnected the element (which controls the lower refer section from what I can gather)from the control board and eliminated the blowing of the fuses/breakers not surprisingly I received the alarm. I have ordered new elements even though the tested within spec 60 ohms each. This whole thing started in Feb when I went to turn on the refer to get ready for a jaunt. Within seconds I heard a pop and unit switched to LP. Not having the time to dig into the cause or wishing to risk screwing up the LP cooling I ran it on LP the entire trip. Upon the return and since winter weather would not give up I emptied and shut the refer off until yesterday. When I went into the MH I discovered a tripped breaker for the refer but not fuse. Talking to the serviceman who works on these units in my area he told me to remove the heaters one at a time until either the fuse or circuit breaker did not open. That is where we are today of course since the "no co" has a lock out tided to it and until I found this site that told me how to reset it I did not want to risk it. Any advise (other than removing the unit) don't have the money now.
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Old 04-30-2013, 12:47 PM   #13
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We may have a "cure" for our Dometic refer.
A Whirlpool double door refer w/French drawer freezer and it comes with a new 43' motorhome wrapped around it!
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Old 04-30-2013, 07:01 PM   #14
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We may have a "cure" for our Dometic refer.
A Whirlpool double door refer w/French drawer freezer and it comes with a new 43' motorhome wrapped around it!
Mr. D,

You have finally got the right course of action.

I like it !!!

Once you change to residential, you will not go back especially the way it's WRAPPED!!!

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