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Old 10-05-2011, 10:19 PM   #1
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Noisy Thetford toilet Model 19430 Aria Deluxe Low

Our Thetford has been getting noisier and noisier...when we flush it sounds like a NASCAR race car is in the RV. It also no longer holds water. We put Thetford lubricant in the toilet thinking it was the flap that was the problem and that seemed to quiet it a bit but the noise is just getting louder. Do we just need to replace the toilet or the flap? Any suggestions would be appreciated.

This is in a 2003 Newmar Mountainaire.
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Old 10-06-2011, 06:39 AM   #2
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Noisy Thetford

awichman:

I think we have the same model. Haven't used "Thetford Lubricant", but whenever ours starts making noise (maybe once or so a year), I'll push both flush buttons simultaneously to open gate valve. I'll then clean the gate valve seating groove all around the drain opening with an old toothbrush and a few cotton swabs so all debris is gone. (Be very careful NOT to inadvertently drop tooth brush or swabs down the drain !! ). I'll then dip a cotton swab in vaseline and apply it well into and around this gate valve groove (inside the groove). I'll then close the gate valve and apply vaseline all around the black gate valve gasket and particularly at the aft (back) edge where the gate begins it's slide into the back when it is opening. I'll cyle it it a few times, then add more vaseline to the aft edge of the gate valve and cycle it some more. Noise has always gone away if not right away, it will in a day or so of use.

Steve
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Old 10-06-2011, 07:01 AM   #3
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Steve - I always thought that any petroleum based product (vaseline) and rubber don't mix!?

Mark
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Old 11-28-2015, 10:21 AM   #4
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Proper Lubricant/ Flange Spacers

Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc Mark View Post
Steve - I always thought that any petroleum based product (vaseline) and rubber don't mix!?

Mark
Yes Mark, you are 100% correct according to Thetford. I asked and they OK'ed a product called "Super Lube" I get from ACE Hardware. it contains Syncolon which does not deteriorate the rubber seals. They also suggest Silicone Spray which I use monthly to stay on top of the situation. I recently replaced the Blade Mechanism and Blade Seal in my #19430 Aria Deluxe. The guy above asking about the noise his unit makes…..It's the old motor in his Mechanism. Mine did the same….when I replaced the Blade Mechanism, that loud NASCAR sound went away. It's such a lot of hassle working on these that I try to stay ahead of the problems and keep everything lubricated to prevent problems from slipping up on me.

Floor Covering Replacement & your Toilet…something you will surly need to know….

I had to replace the ceramic tile floors in our 2003 40' Holiday Rambler "Imperial" and used 1/2" thick Engineered/Laminated "soild" wood flooring. This raised the floor level just enough to prevent the Rubber Flange/Floor Seal from getting the proper compression needed to prevent leaks. If anyone out there is thinking of the same type of Flooring project….Be sure to measure from the top of your existing Flange located in the floor, not the toilet, to the top of the tile you are replacing. When the new flooring is installed, take a new measurement in the exact same way. The difference in the two measurements will give you the thickness of the spacer you will need to use to be sure you have good compression on the existing Flange/Floor Seal. I wish someone had alerted me to this issue ahead of time…..So, since that didn't happen….I'm sharing it with all of you now.

The floor flange is screwed to the wood sub floor. If you can remove these screws and turn/screw the flange to the right a few turns, it will adjust to a taller measurement and you will not need a spacer. But, they use a LOT of Butyl Caulk under the flange at the factory. This can be near impossible to break loose after several years. It was for me at least. I opted for the spacers…..

This is a problem that Thetford had no ready made answers to. It is a real issue you Will face, but never hear it spoken of until you are mounting your toilet onto the new flooring. The added thickness of the new flooring material takes away from the height of the existing floor flange which reduces compression on the seal…thereby allowing water to pass around the seal. I hope this prevents some of you from learning this the hard way or having to pay a Tech several hundred $ for a 15 minuet job that you could do yourself…. After all of this, I've become sort of a 1/2 expert, lol… So, feel free to contact me if I can help you somehow……thmpick@gmail.com

Best of Luck to All
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