Community Forums

Dr4Film · 02-02-2010, 08:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 007";596448]To [B][URL="http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/ncold1200.pdf

check your thermistor[/URL][/B] and see if its good go to page 17 of this pdf to test it. There are other trouble spec's that you may want to check also.

Unfortunately, after performing ALL of the known tests both on page 17 and other places, it did not indicate to me any positive fact that my thermistor was faulty. And the ohm readings were fine too. In fact everything was fine, but my refer still didn't respond correctly. Then a gentleman know as RV Dude hit it on the button. He said to replace the thermistor as they can have an internal dynamic failure which will cause the refer to not cool properly. That was it for me.

Now I am wondering if the new thermistor that AL purchased and tried in his refer is a good one.

That could be another possibility to look at. Highly unlikely but plausible.

Dr4Film ----- Richard.

al.m · 02-03-2010, 04:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RV Wizard

Al, from what I can find out, it looks like the control board is not operating as per design; allowing the longer time needed to reduce the ice on the fins of the fresh food section. Looks like you need a new control board if the thermistor you replaced is in fact good.

It would appear that the new thermistor that I installed is working correctly. The set temp is currently set to 4 and last night, during an 8.5 hour period, my min /max recording monitor saved a minimum temp of 34.1 and a maximum temp of 35.7.

According to the diagnostic temperature readout on the Norcold panel, with a set temperature of 4 and the refrigerator staying closed, I have observed a fin temperature between 25 and 29 degrees. I have seen the fin temperature rise to over 30 when it has been opened for a long time to get food out but it quickly goes back to the 25 - 29 degree range.

If it were not for the every two day defrost cycle it would be a very satisfactory refrigerator.

As a matter of curiosity do you know if the defrost cycle is simply a timed event for both start and termination or does it start on time and terminate based on some other paramenter?

I guess that a board replacement is next.

Al

al.m · 02-03-2010, 04:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dr4Film

I bought a brand new spare control board from eBay late last year for only $65 including shipping.

If you are sure you need the 621271 board, there is several on eBay, but there is one right now for $195 and free shipping.

Good Luck!

Dr4Film ----- Richard.

Thanks for the info. I could not find the item that you saw for $195 and free shipping. I did see a couple in the low $200's being sold with no warranty. As a posted in an earlier message I have found a couple of suppliers of Dinosaur 6212XX boards that come with Dinosaur warranty.

Does anyone know about the quality of Dinosaur Electronics boards?

Al

al.m · 02-03-2010, 04:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 007";596448]To [B][URL="http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/ncold1200.pdf

check your thermistor[/URL][/B] and see if its good go to page 17 of this pdf to test it. There are other trouble spec's that you may want to check also.

I had checked the thermistor according to the static tests in the Norcold service manual and it test good. The replacement is performing fine so there must be some other failure mode. My remaining problem is the extreemly long time that it stays in the fin defrost cycle.

Al

al.m · 02-03-2010, 04:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dr4Film

Unfortunately, after performing ALL of the known tests both on page 17 and other places, it did not indicate to me any positive fact that my thermistor was faulty. And the ohm readings were fine too. In fact everything was fine, but my refer still didn't respond correctly. Then a gentleman know as RV Dude hit it on the button. He said to replace the thermistor as they can have an internal dynamic failure which will cause the refer to not cool properly. That was it for me.

Now I am wondering if the new thermistor that AL purchased and tried in his refer is a good one.

That could be another possibility to look at. Highly unlikely but plausible.

Dr4Film ----- Richard.

Based on the last nights overnight min/max temperature recorded
(34.1 / 35.7) performance it appears to me that the thermistor is working properly.

I'm going to monitor it for another defrost cycle, but it looks like a need to order a control board next to get it to exit the defrost cycle in less that 6 hours!

Al

Dr4Film · 02-03-2010, 09:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by al.m

Thanks for the info. I could not find the item that you saw for $195 and free shipping. I did see a couple in the low $200's being sold with no warranty. As a posted in an earlier message I have found a couple of suppliers of Dinosaur 6212XX boards that come with Dinosaur warranty.

Does anyone know about the quality of Dinosaur Electronics boards?

Al

Hi Al,

I looked again on eBay and it is still there. Here's the item number so do a search using the item number and it should come right up.

170407511615

Good Luck!

Dr4Film ----- Richard.

al.m · 02-03-2010, 01:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dr4Film

Hi Al,

I looked again on eBay and it is still there. Here's the item number so do a search using the item number and it should come right up.

170407511615

Good Luck!

Dr4Film ----- Richard.

Thanks for the info. That board is a different part number than the board in my referigerator.

My board is a 621271. The board you found is a 621270 001. I don't know what the difference is. I noticed that the Dinosaur Electronics replacement board different jumper configurations for a 621271 vs. a 621270.

Thanks again, Al

GaryKD · 02-03-2010, 02:13 PM

Hi Al,
Before spending any $s, double check the coach batteries. Refers can provide adventures when they don't get their 12 VDC fix.

Jim Stewart · 02-03-2010, 02:17 PM

One other possibility. If the fins have iced up severely due to bad door seals, frequent opening and closing of the doors and/or high moisture, the defrost cycle lasts longer and takes longer to recover from. How's your iced fins?

al.m · 02-03-2010, 07:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GaryKD

Hi Al,
Before spending any $s, double check the coach batteries. Refers can provide adventures when they don't get their 12 VDC fix.

Thanks for the suggestion. 12V is good at refrigerator.

Al

al.m · 02-03-2010, 07:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim Stewart

One other possibility. If the fins have iced up severely due to bad door seals, frequent opening and closing of the doors and/or high moisture, the defrost cycle lasts longer and takes longer to recover from. How's your iced fins?

I would not classify the frost on the fins as being excessive. I have checked the door seals and they appear to be good passing the dollar bill test

Al

Dr4Film · 02-03-2010, 07:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by al.m

Thanks for the info. That board is a different part number than the board in my referigerator.

My board is a 621271. The board you found is a 621270 001. I don't know what the difference is. I noticed that the Dinosaur Electronics replacement board different jumper configurations for a 621271 vs. a 621270.

Thanks again, Al

I guess I need to pay more attention to the numbers.

Sorry......Al.

Dr4Film ----- Richard.

RV Wizard · 02-04-2010, 03:12 AM

Dinosaur boards are probably the best you can buy. I highly recommend them.

footdoc · 02-06-2010, 05:18 PM

I monitored my temps in the 1200 LRIM for a long time, wondering why the temps would swing up every few days until I was finally told by Norcold after several calls about the defrost cycle...mine seems to run every 2 days or so...fridge temp will get to about 41 and the freezer will get to about 22, then come back down..this is verified with 2 min/max thermometers I have permanently installed up and down...I normally keep the setting on 7.