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Old 02-05-2013, 12:57 PM   #15
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Quieter Fans

I haven't done it because I haven't needed it yet. Our 1201 LRIM maintains 34-36F pretty consistantly.

This wasn't always the case. I experimented with several ways to get it cooler and found a very simple solution that has worked for me for several months. I took the thermistor off the fin, bent the clip out a bit and put a single layer of a foam coffee cup between the flat surface of the thermistor and the fin. This 'fools' the thermistor into reacting to temprature changes 'on the fin' a little slower. But not enough to cause a shutdown when it goes into defrost mode.

But if I feel the need for more cooling I will look at fitting 3 or 4 230mm low RPM fans at the top. They are the quietest I've seen. They cost more of course.

I built a monster gaming computer in a typical case and it not only ran hot but it sounded like a jet taking off from all the freakin' fans. I re-built it into a case with three 230mm fans and you can hardly hear them. The only fans I hear are the ones on on graphics card and coolers.
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Old 02-05-2013, 01:18 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed-Sommers View Post
My thoughts are for the fans to be pushing air onto the coils so the hot air rises throuth the normal configuration.

Muffin fans are not able to suck air in even a fraction of the efficiency of the pushing of air, by design.

Also, two muffin fans with and on/off switch installed at the coils are easily accessible as needed.

Ed
According to Fantastic vent (maker of the Fantastic Fan) pulling air through is more efficient than pushing it. So you mount the fans at the top to pull the hot air out, to be replaced by cool air.
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Old 02-05-2013, 01:40 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr_D View Post
According to Fantastic vent (maker of the Fantastic Fan) pulling air through is more efficient than pushing it. So you mount the fans at the top to pull the hot air out, to be replaced by cool air.
Of course, it should be expected that the Fantastic makers would make that claim...look where they put the fans. LOL

I still think there is a good rationale to install fans at the top of a stack to help pull air through the coils. I did find it interesting that there was a posting about refer temps going up while driving. I would wonder if that is more prevalent with refers in slide outs or not. I would hope that refers vented through the top vent would actually gain some from improved air flow. I would think a device similar to tank vents could be an interesting enhancement. OTOH, I would think refers in slide outs might have a harder time when driving. I suppose one could have a ram air scoop set up but have to run the refer on the generator because too much air might keep the propane burner snuffed out.

HMMMM...just thinking out loud.
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Old 02-05-2013, 02:26 PM   #18
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My refers not in a slide out. I can see it causing turbulance. My coach gets that problem if I leave the roof vent open while driving. I get a negative air situation and my sewer smell likes to get back in the coach.
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Old 02-05-2013, 05:32 PM   #19
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Correct need of the fans

To get things correct about the FANS added to the back of the refrigerator.
The fans are not used to get heat out of the compartment, not used to get air across the coils, they are used to get air flow through the condenser fins (not around them but through them).
Since everyone has different thoughts about the fans, it all boils down to air flow, but the air flow must be used correct. With some RV's putting the fans in the roof vent opening is OK, Fans just below the fins OK, at the lower bottom vent not the best.
If, an I say if the RV cabinet for the refrigerator is built correct you should not have over a 1/4 inch gap from the RV wall to the surface of the condenser fins. Most RV's say I have a baffle, it's OK. Only to find the factory mounted agaist the RV wall 6 inches below Condenser fins.
If one has more gap, more air flow is needed since most of the air is going around condenser, not though it as is should. Air will take path of least resistance.
The best design is the have a baffle design to divert 100% of the air flow through the condenser fins.
Lets use an example so one can understand: Your HOME Air conditioner pulls the heat from your home transferring the heat to the condenser setting outside your Home. During the cooling mode the large fan is getting a large volume of air through the condenser to remove the heat that was removed from your Home. Lets turn off the outside fan and just let the wind thats blowing,do the job. You will find out the wind blowing even a strong blowing wind,will go around the condenser fins which makes your Home air conditioner stop cooling your Home. Is anything wrong, NO only bad air flow where it's needed. This would be the same with the back side of your refrigerator, is air flow going through the correct area or is it going around it. Some will say I added 2 fans an it cured my problem, answer NO it did not, only covered the problem by getting what air did go through fins moved through faster, which gave a better cooling. If you had corrected the gap, added fans, got 100% air through fins you would have corrected problem and gave the MAX cooling of coils it could produce.
Remember, slide out upper vent or roof vent we are needing air through condenser-not heat from compartment. A proper sealed, good cooling unit with correct air flow through the condenser fins will keep everything nice and cold 100 plus degrees outside.
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Old 02-05-2013, 07:16 PM   #20
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Couple more questions. It's been mentioned a couple of times to install a fuse. What size fuse do I make? The 4 fans are rated at 1.9 watts each at 12 volts. I'm presuming you fuse the positive wire. Also I went to buy a switch at radio shack and got really confused. There are many different types at different amp ratings. What amp rating should I get? I think that's all for now. Thanks.
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Old 02-06-2013, 03:07 AM   #21
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That would give you 0.16 amps per fan with the numbers you had given.
I hope that helps.
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Old 02-06-2013, 07:32 AM   #22
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Couple more questions. It's been mentioned a couple of times to install a fuse. What size fuse do I make? The 4 fans are rated at 1.9 watts each at 12 volts. I'm presuming you fuse the positive wire. Also I went to buy a switch at radio shack and got really confused. There are many different types at different amp ratings. What amp rating should I get? I think that's all for now. Thanks.
No fuse needed. To power the fans, I used the 12 VDC power to the board which is already fused.

If you feel the need to fuse it further, Watts = Amps x Volts.

Use a 3 amp fuse and you'll be fine.

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Old 02-09-2013, 12:41 PM   #23
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I'm heading out west in a couple of months. And some places will be hot. I have a Norcold 1200. I've been reading many post on the install of fans. It looks easier to install some fans on the door on the back of the fridge. I went on the roof and removed the vent cover. There is a mesh screen and frame attached to the roof. Do you remove the mesh screen?
Anyone who has done this. Pics would help. I'm trying to figure out the best way.
Has anyone out a couple of fans on the rear of the fridge? How were they mounted?
Thanks.
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Old 02-09-2013, 12:50 PM   #24
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Rick

I will have pictures up by next week. I removed the mesh by cutting it out. There are some that mounted them below as it is easier.

I will get some pictures up soon, but I'm just following the lead from others that have done it already. If you do a google search, you may find numerous methods.
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Old 02-09-2013, 01:03 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dforce1 View Post
To get things correct about the FANS added to the back of the refrigerator.
The fans are not used to get heat out of the compartment, not used to get air across the coils, they are used to get air flow through the condenser fins (not around them but through them).
Since everyone has different thoughts about the fans, it all boils down to air flow, but the air flow must be used correct. With some RV's putting the fans in the roof vent opening is OK, Fans just below the fins OK, at the lower bottom vent not the best.
If, an I say if the RV cabinet for the refrigerator is built correct you should not have over a 1/4 inch gap from the RV wall to the surface of the condenser fins. Most RV's say I have a baffle, it's OK. Only to find the factory mounted agaist the RV wall 6 inches below Condenser fins.
If one has more gap, more air flow is needed since most of the air is going around condenser, not though it as is should. Air will take path of least resistance.
The best design is the have a baffle design to divert 100% of the air flow through the condenser fins.
Lets use an example so one can understand: Your HOME Air conditioner pulls the heat from your home transferring the heat to the condenser setting outside your Home. During the cooling mode the large fan is getting a large volume of air through the condenser to remove the heat that was removed from your Home. Lets turn off the outside fan and just let the wind thats blowing,do the job. You will find out the wind blowing even a strong blowing wind,will go around the condenser fins which makes your Home air conditioner stop cooling your Home. Is anything wrong, NO only bad air flow where it's needed. This would be the same with the back side of your refrigerator, is air flow going through the correct area or is it going around it. Some will say I added 2 fans an it cured my problem, answer NO it did not, only covered the problem by getting what air did go through fins moved through faster, which gave a better cooling. If you had corrected the gap, added fans, got 100% air through fins you would have corrected problem and gave the MAX cooling of coils it could produce.
Remember, slide out upper vent or roof vent we are needing air through condenser-not heat from compartment. A proper sealed, good cooling unit with correct air flow through the condenser fins will keep everything nice and cold 100 plus degrees outside.
This makes good sense.
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Old 02-09-2013, 01:28 PM   #26
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Thanks Crah.

I look forward to the pics. I'm sure I will need fans installed because the desert will be hot.
You say you cut the screen out. Did you put it back once the fans were installed.
I looked down the vent from the roof. I saw what appears to be a thermal switch on the fin. Any idea what that is for?
Thanks
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Old 02-09-2013, 01:48 PM   #27
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Thanks Crah.

I look forward to the pics. I'm sure I will need fans installed because the desert will be hot.
You say you cut the screen out. Did you put it back once the fans were installed.
I looked down the vent from the roof. I saw what appears to be a thermal switch on the fin. Any idea what that is for?
Thanks
Rick
Rick,

I did not put the screen back. It must be some type of bird screen and probably keeps bats out too. I ended up putting 4 fans in that takes up most of the opening. I used metal tape to cover up the remaining opening.

If you Norcold is like mine, I've discovered the thermo switch is for the factory 2 fans that are mounted directly over the coils. When it is hot, I can hear them running, but I don't think they do enough and that's why I mounted 4 on the roof. During cool weather like now, my Norcold works fine and my fans don't come on. It's only when it gets super hot out when it becomes an issue for me.
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Old 02-09-2013, 03:00 PM   #28
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Hi Crah


I ordered 4 fans today. I'm thinking of cutting the mesh screen on 3 sides and fold it up. Then mount the fans to the screen and fold it back down. I can Ty wrap the serene back in place. How does that sound? What do you think of the wiring. A manual switch or a thermister?
Thanks
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