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Old 05-28-2014, 04:35 PM   #1
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Norcold 1200LRIM No AC

I am getting a "No ac" message, but the box seems to work OK on LP. There are two AC plugs (one black and one white) in the outside compartment that houses the "guts" of the fridge. I checked both receptacles by plugging in an AC tool, and both are energized. All recalls were worked in March when I bought the coach. Any idea what could cause this problem?

One more thing - I got a lockout when I first fired up the fridge on this trip, but it cleared when I reset it by tuning it off and back on. I did not have to do the magnet reset procedure.
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Old 05-28-2014, 04:42 PM   #2
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Pull the cover off the control board on the back of the refrig, it's right there where you refer to as the "guts", and mounted right to the back of the refrig. Inside the control box you'll find a fuse for the AC and one for the DC. The AC fuse will most likely be a glass fuse rated at 3 amps.
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Old 05-28-2014, 04:51 PM   #3
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One of the 2 plugs on the outside is for the fridge, and the other is for the ice maker.

As you have undoubtedly figured out, "No AC" means the fridge is not getting AC power. AC is not required for the unit to work on LP - only 12V to operate the circuit board.

One cause of no AC if there is power in the receptacle is a 120V blown fuse on the circuit board. There are 2 fuses there - a 12V fuse and a 120V fuse. The 12V fuse looks like an auto fuse, and the 120V fuse is a glass cylinder with metal ends.
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Old 05-29-2014, 08:12 AM   #4
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Thanks 94 and Paz. I see the cover. I pulled gently but it didn't come off. There are 4 bolts (and an unused hole for a fifth) that look like they need a 1/4 or 3/8 socket, but I wanted to ask if these need to be removed to take the cover off. I don't want to take the entire assembly off unless I need to do so for access.
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Old 05-29-2014, 09:18 AM   #5
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If your fuse is good, then the heat element could be bad. They are not hard to replace, but you will have to unscrew a few things.
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Old 05-29-2014, 02:02 PM   #6
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Found Procedure on Dutchmen Web site

I found the procedure to change the AC fuse on the Dutchmen Web site. It also shows the AC glass fuse to be 8 amp and the DC blade fuse to be 3 amp. Looks like 3 of the 4 screws have to be removed, as well as the AC connector, 2 DC lugs, and the ignition wire connector. No big deal, but I think I'll let it run on LP for now and fix it in the storage lot. That way i won't have to worry about breaking the LP operation leaving us without refrigeration at all, and it will be at ambient temperature when I'm pawing it. I'll report back when its fixed.
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Old 06-14-2014, 03:33 PM   #7
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Fuse Blew Again

I got the cover off today - took out more screws than needed, but it wasn't a big deal. The 8A glass fuse was blown as suspected. Replaced the fuse, started the generator, then after a couple of minutes I turned on the fridge. It tried to run on AC for 15 seconds or so, then went to LP. The fuse had again blown.

Is there anything that I should check before I take it to the shop? Also, if it is a bad control board, would this be a good opportunity to change out the cooling unit for one of the Amish-made units? Does the Amish unit come with a different control board?
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Old 06-14-2014, 03:40 PM   #8
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No Control Board with Amish

I just looked at an ordering site and it looks like the control board is not included with the Amish cooling unit. Sorry for asking - even I could have done that research before posting.
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Old 06-14-2014, 03:52 PM   #9
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You don't need a new cooling system if it cools on LP gas. It's the 120 v heating element that does the same thing the LP flame does --- makes heat to boil the ammonia which rises, condenses, and creates cold. The heating element is not that expensive and do able by anyone who can handle a screwdriver. This video is for a Dometic fridge, but your element and the procedure should be very similar.

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Old 06-14-2014, 04:03 PM   #10
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Blown AC fuse

I'm thinking that might indicate a burned out and shorted heater element. Easy enough to check with a voltmeter. The procedure to do this is in the troubleshooting guide along with the expected resistance values. The guide can be found in the files section here, at Norcold's website and many other sources on the web.

The elements are not horribly expensive or hard to install. But of course that depends upon your mechanical abilities. Last time I looked David Force, mentioned in a previous reply, sold them at a good price.

When I first power up the coach I will get the no-AC error for a few minutes. Don't know why but I'm not particularly worried about it. It seems to have something to do with the power control center. As soon as the meter starts reporting amps used my refer will work on AC.

I've found that a lot of weird things in RV items exposed to the elements, refers, water heaters, generators, etc. can be prevented by occasionally cleaning the contacts of all the spade connectors. Your refer has many of them.

Good luck!
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Old 06-14-2014, 04:06 PM   #11
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It sounds like you have a bad control board, although it may be one of the 120VAC heating elements has shorted out. You can unplug the heating elements from the control board and see if the fuse still blows.

I'm thinking that the AC fuse on the board is supposed to be 3 amp. I wonder if someone before you was having trouble with the fuse blowing and changed the size of it?

I replaced the cooling unit on our 1200LRIM right after we got the MH with one of the Amish-built units. I got the cooling unit, two fans, and two heating elements from David Force with RV Cooling Unit Warehouse. I have since had to replace the control board, also purchased from David. He's a great guy to do business with!

On my Monaco one of the AC outlets behind the fridge is for the icemaker and the other one is for the fridge. The difference is that one of them works on the inverter and other one doesn't. I keep the fridge plugged into the one that works on the inverter so I can keep it on AC while driving.

Good luck, happy trails, and God bless!
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Old 07-15-2014, 12:08 PM   #12
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Follow Up - No AC Operation

After watching a YouTube video I decided that I didn't want to change the element myself. My independent RV shop found and replaced 2 bad elements. Drove to a campground yesterday and got NO co on AC AND LP! At this point I am a lot less than gruntled. Called the RV place and the owner explained how to do a reset of the system with a jumper wire, and all seems well now - even though it is taking forever to get cold.

We had some very severe thunderstorms last week, and i suspect that there may have been enough static electricity around to trip out the safety system. Happens occasionally to my S&B home's GFCIs as well.

Thanks to all for the advise and information.
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