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Old 07-16-2014, 10:25 PM   #43
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As many of us uave found

Regardless of what the manual says and contrary to what anyone will tell you; operating these refers on high front panel settings does not work and actually raises the internal temprature significantly.

I'm not alone in this finding, dozens of other folks have found this to be true.

Try running it no higher than 4.

Good luck.
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Old 07-16-2014, 10:33 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Muddypaws View Post
Regardless of what the manual says and contrary to what anyone will tell you; operating these refers on high front panel settings does not work and actually raises the internal temprature significantly.

I'm not alone in this finding, dozens of other folks have found this to be true.

Try running it no higher than 4.

Good luck.
I have not found that true at all. I set mine on 5 when I run on 7 stuff starts to freeze.
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Old 07-16-2014, 10:47 PM   #45
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The number are with me

I've personally worked on and fixed a dozen 1200's in the last year and they all acted the same way as mine. It's voodoo but it works for us.
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Old 07-16-2014, 11:06 PM   #46
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I've personally worked on and fixed a dozen 1200's in the last year and they all acted the same way as mine. It's voodoo but it works for us.
like they say whatever works works so no disputing facts

for me I have worked on a couple and have owned 3.The latest is the 1210
and all have always responded well to thermostat settings
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Old 08-08-2014, 01:08 PM   #47
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Try as I did to make my Norcold perform I have about reached the limit, ready to throw in the towel and join the residential crowd.

For the record here is a recap of my efforts up to now...
  • Not caring to worry about the dreaded Norcold fire I installed an Amish CU last spring with a baffle and ensured that the air gap was tight so all circulation wend past the CU.
  • When I saw the poor performance during hot weather or on the road I discussed with Dave Force. Heeding his recommendation I pulled the fridge back out, removed the CU and with even more care that I exercised the first time injected sealant foam like a crazy person then used a ton of HVAC aluminum tape to mummify the back of the unit.
  • That improved things a little but still not great. Being the 2 door fridge it did not come with CU fans. So back to Dave and purchased a CU fan kit with lower temp trigger. Some performance gain again but still having issues when on the road.
  • Back to Dave to get his deluxe inside fan kit. Performance gains in temperature stability and ability to use a much lower setting.
  • Bottom line, when we are on the road for more than just a few hours the temp is uncontrollable. On an extended trip over the past 3 weeks we ended up throwing away a bunch of food because we could find any stores that sold dry ice.

So it's research time and looking to find someone smarter than me that can take consumer energy consumption info and convert that to real world numbers so I have an idea of current draw before taking the plunge. Since I have the 2 door Norcold my opening is 24 x 60. There are several options in this size range, all of which give about a 50% increase in interior space over the Norcold (nice!). The Whirlpool WRT111 is readily available at all major retailers and is in the $400 range (nice again!). The specs say 379 kWh annually but with the research I've done I don't think you can convert kWh to a meaningful number to estimate current draw.

We do a fair amount of dry camping but normally for not more than 5 days at a time. My house batteries are 4 6V Lifeline GPL-4CT 220 Amp. I have the original single solar panel that outputs 6 amps on a good day (planning to remove and upgrade the solar in the future). Also have plenty of genny for recharging when needed. We are also very conservative with our power usage in general.

Wondering if anyone has this model and has measured the amperage? Or does anyone have any idea of how I can estimate the power requirements for this fridge without actually installing the unit and hoping that I am OK? Until I upgrade my solar, my guess is that as long as I am in a place where I can run the genny for 2-4 hours a day I should be OK but would like some confirmation from others with knowledge and experience.

[And for the record and the iRV2 community, I concede defeat, Richard (Dr4Film) is right, there is only so much you can do with an absorption fridge, it works great for the weekend warrior but not for extended use.]
I am also fighting an Amish Norcold that will not cool on the road. I have the ARP control and am able to monitor the boiler temps. My boiler temp is the same parked or on the road. I leave the fridge control panel set on thermister temps, when parked they are in the 20's when on the road they are up to 60. It isn't able to complete the changes from gas to liquid etc when moving to cool. I have declared defeat more than once and still trying. I am getting real good and tired of taking the fridge out.
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Old 08-08-2014, 02:08 PM   #48
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I am getting real good and tired of taking the fridge out.

I have declared defeat more than once and still trying.
Once you get to the point of acknowledging that it isn't worth the time, money and frustration to keep the POS and finally accept defeat, your life will be so much better without it.

You only need to remove it one more time and deposit it in the nearest appliance dump.

My RV Full-Time life improved 1000% with the residenatial Samsung RF197. I only wished that I had done 3 years sooner.

Dr4Film ----- Richard
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Old 08-08-2014, 07:45 PM   #49
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I really like my Norcold. It cools fine make lots of ice and keeps ice cream pretty firm. However, the first time I have to pull it to make a repair, I will replace with a residential. They don't use much energy.
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Old 08-08-2014, 08:18 PM   #50
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2 cents from me if you guys think your fridge may be leaking air call around town and find a auto repair place that tests Emission's most of them use a smoke generator which is low PSI high density smoke to test EVAP system and fuel system leaks. If you blow smoke into the drain tube on the lower unit and smoke comes out any where it is leaking there. for the ice maker side of the freezer blow smoke in the ice maker water supply line after the water valve.

Truly the biggest issues I ever see with them are poor installs and made worse by parts changers who simple install parts and charge you for them. It is a double edged sword for us techs often we are expected to have a answer and give a complete estimate in under 15 min. That forces many to simply change parts as fast as they can.
1st do not use box air temp you need to monitor actual product temp in the unit. For this I thank a woman in TX many years ago who gave me a great idea. Fill one of those little stem vials for flowers with water and put the rubber nipple cover on it stick it to the side of your fridge now insert a probe thermometer into the water and let it run. This way you are measuring product temp not air temp. Air flow when driving is a PITA as no ones fridge is designed to operate in a near hurricane wind. To make it work well you would need shutters and the ability to open and close the vents while traveling. You want the proper flow not too much and not to little.
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Old 08-08-2014, 08:44 PM   #51
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Here is a quick thought. Why not try and block 1/2 the outside refrigerator vent while driving? You've tried everything else. My thoughts are the maybe the conditions become too cool and do not allow enough heat to build up.
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Old 08-09-2014, 11:51 AM   #52
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2 cents from me if you guys think your fridge may be leaking air call around town and find a auto repair place that tests Emission's most of them use a smoke generator which is low PSI high density smoke to test EVAP system and fuel system leaks. If you blow smoke into the drain tube on the lower unit and smoke comes out any where it is leaking there. for the ice maker side of the freezer blow smoke in the ice maker water supply line after the water valve.

Truly the biggest issues I ever see with them are poor installs and made worse by parts changers who simple install parts and charge you for them. It is a double edged sword for us techs often we are expected to have a answer and give a complete estimate in under 15 min. That forces many to simply change parts as fast as they can.
1st do not use box air temp you need to monitor actual product temp in the unit. For this I thank a woman in TX many years ago who gave me a great idea. Fill one of those little stem vials for flowers with water and put the rubber nipple cover on it stick it to the side of your fridge now insert a probe thermometer into the water and let it run. This way you are measuring product temp not air temp. Air flow when driving is a PITA as no ones fridge is designed to operate in a near hurricane wind. To make it work well you would need shutters and the ability to open and close the vents while traveling. You want the proper flow not too much and not to little.
Right now I am monitoring inside temp with remote air thermometer and also have a glass of water sitting on the same placed with a lab quality thermometer. The water measures 4 degrees colder than the air.

I like your smoke idea but to do it right it would need to be removed again.
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Old 08-09-2014, 11:55 AM   #53
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Question for you guys that have actually tested temps with gas and elect.
Which one do you find cools the best?

I am finding that the gas is less than electric even though the boiler temp is 25 higher than electric. Of course we need the gas to perform better since it is what we use on the road.
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Old 08-09-2014, 12:00 PM   #54
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Here is a quick thought. Why not try and block 1/2 the outside refrigerator vent while driving? You've tried everything else. My thoughts are the maybe the conditions become too cool and do not allow enough heat to build up.
I am working on checking out that theory now.
I have been working with Paul Unmack of ARP he has been very helpful and it helps to get an engineers thinking.
The fridge performance in the driveway on gas is less that stellar, if I could get that on the road it would be adequate with no reserve. I still need to road test.
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Old 08-14-2014, 06:50 PM   #55
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I tried endless solutions to this issue of not cooling while traveling INCLUDING trying to block the vent(s) partially and NOTHNG helped. Nothing helped INCLUDING Norcold. I sent them very detailed emails with photos and documentation of times, temps, on and on. Never got a response form them at all. They were in contact with the RV manufacture, too. They NEVER contacted me and came u with any solution. So I will have to agree with what many others have claimed about Norcold customer service......pitiful. That's ok....I took the Norcold out and sold it and replaced it with a residential unit. BEST thing I ever did. The fire hazard and inconsistency of cooling and lack of help from Norcold is no longer a worry! Best upgrade I have ever done. Phillip
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