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07-08-2014, 09:55 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 523
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Closing your roof vents will do nothing. The unit is sealed into its on closet to promote the venturi effect from bottom outside vent behind the unit to the top vent of the unit.
As said before, is it in a slide or not?
If it is in a slide in will be harder to get it to cool but hopefully not impossible.
If it is not in a slide you can try to install more fans, and make sure that the fans you have are working now.
Air flow from bottom to the top is what really makes them cool.
Also check to see the color of the flame and make sure it is full and blue.
Good luck!
__________________
2006 Mountain Aire, Jeep LJ, 900 watts of solar, boondocking life away! Volunteer Fire Fighter!
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07-08-2014, 11:33 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,312
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I lost the bottom vent cover this spring and in one hr the ice cream melted.
Use the top vent at the bottom and travelled 500 miles in 2 days with no fridge problem.
The bottom vent cover needs to be in good shape and the flame needs to be adjusted properly. Also the ice machine puts a lot of load on the system. I would travel with it off.
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Barbara and Laurent, Hartland Big Country 3500RL. 39 ft long and 15500 GVW.
2005 Ford F250 SD, XL F250 4x4, Long Box, 6.0L Diesel, 6 Speed Stick, Hypertech Max Energy for Fuel mileage of 21 MPusG empty, 12.6 MPusG pulling the BC. ScangaugeII for display..
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07-09-2014, 12:03 AM
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#17
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Registered User
Fleetwood Owners Club Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Silicon Valley, CA
Posts: 1,857
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Traveling
Someone else had this same problem just a week or so back.
He added computer muffin fans to suck air up and out, a snap disk 130F thermostatic switch attached to one of the upper fins turns them on. He also did the Muddypaws mod to lower the refers set temp. Search on 'Muddypaws Mod' or 'Norcold Experiment' and you'll find it. I did those simple mods and my refer is a legend in the RV kingdom.
Was it installed properly? There should be very little space between the coil and the wall or baffle in the rear, and ducting above it to prevent hot air from pooling there. The installation manual has the details.
The ice maker only runs when you're plugged in to 110. But, there have been reports of bad sealing on the water lines. Also the drain line.
If your vent is on the roof try an experiment next trip. I'm thinking there might be some aerodynamic effect forcing air down the vent instead of up. Duct tape the leading edge of the vent to stop the wind from getting rammed in. Leave the rest of it open of course. This may create a nice low pressure zone at the back of the vent and suck air through in the right direction. What ya got to lose? It's cheaper than a residential.
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07-09-2014, 04:25 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Westcliffe, CO
Posts: 913
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Muddypaws, I just tried that test. On Monday we drove a 500 mile test with just the leading edge of the vent taped and no difference. So yesterday I added more tape 1/4 of the way back along the sides from the front and we did another 450 miles, guess what? Still no difference, and now it doesn't recover back to normal 36 degree temp when stationary, so the tape gave zero benefit.
I want to double check my external fans tomorrow to make sure they are working, but I suspect they are. Next move may be to throw in the towel. I've rebuilt the fridge twice, added external fans and internal fans, carefully level when stationary and prayed a lot. Perhaps it's time to go to the other side and PM to Dr4Film to ask some questions about power consumption and a dedicated inverter for a residential unit.
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Glenn & Mary
2000 Monaco Dynasty 34 York / 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee Diesel / 2017 Polaris General
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07-09-2014, 06:11 AM
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#19
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Moderator Emeritus
Country Coach Owners Club Appalachian Campers Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Chattanooga, Tn.
Posts: 12,060
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If the unit cools while stationary but cannot while travelling the box probably has air leaks that need to be sealed. It will have to be pulled to inspect and seal suspicious areas.
__________________
Mike, RVIA & RVSA Certified Master RV Technician
Amy, Dr. Assistant - Roxie & Mei Ling, four legs each
2000 Gulf Stream Scenic Cruiser 450 hp & 1330# torque
06 Saturn Vue, 06 Chevy Z71 4x4 & 2014 Corvette Z51 M7
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07-09-2014, 01:21 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Florida Cooters Club Coastal Campers
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,022
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hes4all
Closing your roof vents will do nothing. The unit is sealed into its on closet to promote the venturi effect from bottom outside vent behind the unit to the top vent of the unit.
As said before, is it in a slide or not?
If it is in a slide in will be harder to get it to cool but hopefully not impossible.
If it is not in a slide you can try to install more fans, and make sure that the fans you have are working now.
Air flow from bottom to the top is what really makes them cool.
Also check to see the color of the flame and make sure it is full and blue.
Good luck!
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I closed the roof vents as part of the means of process of elimination. This slide it installed into a slide so both vents are on the side wall. From the installation instructions, it does appear to be installed properly with the required baffles and distances from the wall, etc.
The unit was installed with 2 thermostatically controlled pancake fans with the standard 130 degree thermostat. I did switch out the thermostat to an adjustable one and have it set at 105 to help remove more heat. The fans cycle on and off without issue and function well.
Since I'm only having this issue during travel I felt it was a draft/venting issue. So I devised a scoop for the exterior lower vent to push more air through the "chimney". I tested its functionally with a leaf blower and it really moved the air out of the top vent. However, it has made NO difference in the situation. In fact, on our last trip, the ambient air temp was in the 70's after a rain storm. The temp still climbed during travel.
I will check the flame color, however, it seems to burn strong and steady. I do find that his Norcold burner to be loud compared to the previous 10 cu ft model I had in a previous rig.
Thanks, Phillip
__________________
2021 Ventana 3426
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07-09-2014, 01:43 PM
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#21
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: https://binged.it/1KdDqKO
Posts: 2,428
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Is the flame burner on the right or left side of the unit? Or is the burner mounted toward the front of the rig or at the rear?
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07-09-2014, 01:59 PM
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#22
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 188
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Do you have an inverter on board? If so plug the refer into an outlet that's inverter powered and run it on AC power down the road. If not, run the gen on a test trip and see what happens. IF running the refer on AC while traveling works then look into putting an inverter on board.
Just a thought....
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07-09-2014, 02:21 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Florida Cooters Club Coastal Campers
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,022
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Quote:
Originally Posted by homeless
Is the flame burner on the right or left side of the unit? Or is the burner mounted toward the front of the rig or at the rear?
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The burner and flue is on the right side of the unit in the rear as you are facing the lower access panel. Phillip
__________________
2021 Ventana 3426
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07-09-2014, 02:22 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Florida Cooters Club Coastal Campers
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,022
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InfinityJim
Do you have an inverter on board? If so plug the refer into an outlet that's inverter powered and run it on AC power down the road. If not, run the gen on a test trip and see what happens. IF running the refer on AC while traveling works then look into putting an inverter on board.
Just a thought....
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No inverter as that is included when you order the residential refrigerator option. I do not have an on board generator either. Thanks, Phillip
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2021 Ventana 3426
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07-09-2014, 05:49 PM
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#25
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Registered User
Fleetwood Owners Club Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Silicon Valley, CA
Posts: 1,857
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Fans.
I know this may be a dumb question but do you know for a fact that the fans are blowing air out the vent and not sucking it in? Most muffin fans have two arrows embossed into the carrier, one showing direction of rotation and the other showing air flow direction.
We drove 4 hours today. Refer was 37 when we left 'cause the DW had the doors open for 15 or so minutes while she stocked it. When we got 'here' it was 34. I have 4 120mm fans in the upper vent sucking air up and out. They are controlled by a 130F snap disk.
I wonder if you're losing flame going down the road whenever there's a good gust? The refer would automatically re-light and you'd never know about it. If that happens often enough I'm thinking it would do exactly what you're experiencing.
These kinds of things can drive you crazy if you let them.
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07-09-2014, 08:34 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Florida Cooters Club Coastal Campers
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,022
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Anything is a possibility. But the 2 fans are blowing outwards. I replaced the standard 130 degree pancake thermostat with an adjustable one and have it set on 105. I do here the fans cycle on and off.
I don't think the flame is being blown out because I think it will only relight 3 times before shutting down and a fault code appears??? I do notice that the burner on this unit is loud....like a flame thrower! LOL. Is that normal, too.
This is not an acceptable unit....it is not safe to store food at the temps this things is getting. Phillip
__________________
2021 Ventana 3426
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07-09-2014, 08:50 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 356
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdpm
I don't think the flame is being blown out because I think it will only relight 3 times before shutting down and a fault code appears??? Phillip
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If it is like the Dometic controller, If it attempts to relight 3 times and fails, it will code, if it relights on or before the third attempt, it will not. And that scenario could repeat indefinitely.
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07-10-2014, 03:38 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Florida Cooters Club Coastal Campers
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,022
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I phoned Norcold today in regard to this issue.
Per my description, they feel it is a wind turbulence issue sucking the air out of the refrigerator box due to a leak in the box such as the insulation around the cooling unit. They said the unit would have to be pulled out and inspected for obvious areas of poor insulation.
As far as flame out, it all depends on several factors before a fault code would appear. It depends on how many times the burner is blown out and relit within a certain amount of time without manually turning off the unit before a fault code would appear.
I told the rep that I have tried to blow out the burner with a leaf blower and he agreed that if the leaf blower didn't blow it out that it is probably not getting blown out.
The refrigerator box has only 2 openings - the one for the drain tube and the cut-out for the aluminum fins. In my opinion, the area around the fins would seem to be a culprit s there is a gap between the base of the fins and the plastic cut-out area. It seems that area should be sealed. Phillip
__________________
2021 Ventana 3426
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