Originally Posted by dck22
First let me apologize I am working from ignorance and the information provided by Grand Design customer service. They told me that that part would stop 12v to the fridge. Yesterday afternoon I discovered as you said that that is a fan controller and the 5 amp fuse on the circuit board was blown. Replaced the fuse and the fridge came on. A couple of hours later the fridge went off again. I havenít checked the fuse yet, but I bet it is blown again. Do you have thoughts on what might be causing the fuse to blow?
Dennis....as a member of a Grand Design specific forum...AND about 7 or 8 different Grand Design Facebook pages, the Norcold 2118, 4 door fridge gets discussed a LOT. A couple of things about that model and is pretty widely known on some of those pages and that forum. 1. The 5A fuse you are referring to is a very, very common issue with that fridge. Norcold has approved that the fuse be replaced with a 7.5 amp fuse if the 5A fuse blows. That fuse is/was just barely large enough to handle the fan current on the three fans on the back side of the 2118. There are two upper fans, and a smaller fan that is located down lower on the back of the fridge. When they are running under normal circumstances, the current is just below or right at 5 amps....so go ahead and replace it with a 7.5 Amp fuse and see if that works. If that fuse blows, it very, very likely that at least one of the fans has an issue....bearings maybe...causing it to pull too much current.
Many folks, including myself, have added twin fans to the inside of the upper vent outlet to help with air flow across the upper heat exchanger. Part of the problem is that the thermal disc that is put there from the factory, is set at too high of a temperature to turn the fans on for the heat exchanger. By the time that sensor reaches the setpoint (130 degrees), there is already too much heat build up in the heat exchanger and it simply cannot do it's job of dissipating the heat....plus the two upper fans just don't really move enough air to make the heat exchanger work as it should.
So in summary, try the 7.5A fuse first and see if that works and does not blow. If you are having issues keeping the fridge cold enough, make sure that the door flap on the left lower door of the fridge is in fact closing completely....that has been another major problem with that fridge. If it doesn't close completely, a quick fix that has worked for many is to simply remove the left door and put a small washer on the bottom hinge pin to help raise that door slightly. When that is done, the door flap doesn't hang up on the bottom of the refrigerator compartment.
Hopefully, some or all of my suggestions will help you get back to normal with the fridge. I've done the door mod myself, and I've also added twin fans to the upper inside vent area to move more air across the heat exchanger....both with great results. And BTW, DO NOT remove the piece of material that is across that upper vent area. That help force the air across the heat exchanger and if if is removed (some people have tried that), it allow the upward flow of air to simply bypass the heat exchanger and the fridge will almost never get down to an acceptable inside temperature for both the freezer AND the fresh food area.