Community Forums

C-Leigh Racing · 07-20-2016, 12:28 PM

Norcold #821, will work on A/C just fine.

This is standing outside the rv, with the firdge compartment door off looking at all the lower part of the workings & control board.
When switching over the LP, it will light the burner & burn for maybe 1 minute, then you hear a click from some where at the top of the fridge box & it shuts the 12 volts off to the Lp gas valve. You can press the mode button over & over on the control panel as soon as the LP letters go out & it will keep burning, but just pressing the button & leaving it, its like it times out & you hear that click & no 12 volts to the gas valve.
Thanks, Neil

BFlinn181 · 07-20-2016, 01:24 PM

Any error codes on the display?

http://www.liveworkdream.com/wp-cont...coldmanual.pdf

C-Leigh Racing · 07-20-2016, 02:25 PM

It will flash FL on the control panel on the fridge.
Neil

sdennislee · 07-20-2016, 02:43 PM

Have you recently filled the propane tank, could lead to air in line, purge the line by lighting the stove and let burn until you have a steady flame. Once you have purged the line try running the refer on propane.

sdennislee · 07-20-2016, 02:48 PM

See page 12 in this manual if purging doesn't help

http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/ncoldnnewnseries.pdf

bill06447 · 07-20-2016, 07:48 PM

Seems like an issue with the thermocouple. Check to see the flame hits it square for starters.

BFlinn181 · 07-20-2016, 08:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bill06447

Seems like an issue with the thermocouple. Check to see the flame hits it square for starters.

Most newer LP gas devices don't use thermocouples anymore, they have flame sensors. The spark generator has two metallic probes that are in the flame. The flame (actually the carbon atoms in the flame) completes the circuit and because the probes are made of two different metals, a weak current flows to the control board and the CB keeps the gas valve open. If you look at the device, you can see the ceramic insulator that keeps the circuit from closing until the flame completes it.

The linked manuals give troubleshooting suggestions for the LP gas valve not staying open.

C-Leigh Racing · 07-21-2016, 01:57 PM

Ok, Thanks for the added information.
I did a bit more work after entering the first post. I cleaned the burner tube out (lots of rust) & the brass orifice.
I have a set of the small wire jet cleaners like you clean out the jets on motorcycle carbs with. Used the finest one in the set, which was smaller than the hole in the orifice tip, but the orifice looked to be clean to start with. The slits in the burner tube was rusty on the outside, so I with brushed that & it cleaned right up.
The fridge will still light just like before, burns for 28 seconds & then there the click & the gas valve will shut off.
The igniter electrode, looks to be the proper distance from the burner tube & you can hear it click & ignite the gas burner when it will burn
Once we are back from this trip this week end, I'm planing on following the instructions on page 12 in that manual in the link & see what that will do.
I'm suspecting that gas shut off valve or the whole valve itself.
Neil