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Old 04-11-2019, 10:17 PM   #85
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Originally Posted by IC2 View Post
Many of us have read of the disaster tir1000 had when his MH with a Norcold 1200 series fridge set fire to his property. With that thread I've gotten a little apprehensive about the 1210 Norcold in our 5th wheel. Evidently there are several different recalls, of which, after spending some time looking, have no clue if ours has been done, or if so, which version. Or does it even matter as it's the current 'improved' model!

Our 5er is a 2014, early build in 2013 (May). I believe that after looking several places that 2012-2013 was a so-called transiotion year but have nothing 'official' to corroborate that. Norcold's latest web version recall has no issue date or version designation though it does have fridge and cooling unit S/Ns listed as the only indicator - but there are no tags on the cooling unit saying what has been done.

I am going to install an ARP device along with an added pair of temp switch controlled fans as a couple bandaids and maybe a Halon extiguisher ( if my ship comes in with some treasure ). Sigh. Things like this take some of the fun out of RVing
Call 800 767 9101 to check on recall it should be at no cost to you. Did same yesterday, needed to be done. You will need fridge ser # model# and cooling unit ser#, back of fridge big round tube, and maybe rig ser#. I took to MH shop I use, we'll aware of problem, is getting parts to fix no cost to me. Save some money for 10 year fix.
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Old 04-14-2019, 10:30 AM   #86
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The switch and fans will help but the cooling coils need some looking at for possible weld cracks of piping of cooling coils that you can see but most are hidden in the foam on back of fridge.
Some of these older coach's are now 20 years old and you should be changing the cooling coils to the better made ones on the market.
Nothing wrong with the Norcold box its the parts outside that need the fixing many people have changed the cooling coils and can continue to have the use of both AC and LP operation of their Norcolds.
This link will provide information in first post as to what to do.
This link with videos tells you how.
98KSCA, 99MACA, 03 KSCA-3740- 8.1 Chev-- ALLISON Trans
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Old 05-04-2019, 01:13 AM   #87
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Power Line Filter

My TT Dometic refrigerator started acting erratic. Could not be trusted unwatched all night. Status lights would be odd combinations. Flipping the vent fan switch could give it fits. It was glitching the control board.
So whats up? Well it's a long way to the battery. The Dometic control board has very little capacitance on it's power input.

My fan upgrade contributed to the problem. A pair of IP67 PWM 140mm and a PWM control board which has 100uf cap on it's input. That's not much, but the turn-on charge surge enough to glitch down the power line.

I fixed it by wiring a car audio power line filter to the control board and fans.
Do not wire it to the DC heater, the difference in wire gauge should be a clue.
The power line filters typically have 1000-2200uf caps and a ferrite choke rated 8-12amps. Open it up and read the capacitor voltage. You want 25V or higher. 16V is not high enough for RV charger doing an "Equalization Charge".

Noctua NF-A14 iPPC-2000 IP67 PWM, 140mm 4-Pin Heavy Duty Cooling Fan with 2000RPM and IP67 (Black)

ELEGIANT DC 12V PWM PC CPU Temperature Controller Board - 4 Wires Fan Speed Controller with High-Temp Alarm. Comment for 2 fans a standard splitter cable is needed. NO LINK: Other Amazon vendors carry same thing.

Noise Filter BOSS Audio B15N for Car Audio Systems. Comment: Easy to mount but I felt compelled to replace the 16V cap with a 25v one.

Asdomo DC 12V Pre-wired Black Plastic Audio Power Jacks Noise Filter Ground Loop Isolator Suppressor for Car. Comment: Crack it open, cement it back together. No mounting ears.
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2010 Chalet XL1930 A-Frame SOLD
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Old 05-17-2019, 04:16 PM   #88
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Power Line Filter II

Many control boards are not easy to filter. The DC heater and the control circuits share a power connection on board. This could exceed the current rating of the audio power line filter.
I am sure a Techie could do a great work around.

There is a simple thing to try. Connect a large CAP between Power and Ground at or near the control board. 1000uf to 2500uf rated at 25v or higher. These CAPS are polarized and marked either + or - on one end. Get the Polarity Right. Or POW, CAP stuffing in your face or the compartment.
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2010 Chalet XL1930 A-Frame SOLD
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Old 05-28-2019, 01:30 AM   #89
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Bad Connection Ghosts

My old A-Frame (2010) model had a ghost of a bad connection. I recently pulled out the Grounds large wires nuts and added a Ground bus for the dozen ++ wires. Also pulled the +12v large wire nut and simplified things.
What has this to do with the Frig? The bad connection may have glitched the control board with a sudden voltage drop. Odd isn't it that the Frig problems and Older TT, RV, are mentioned together.
IMHO: The Frig control board could be built safer. A Low Voltage reset device could have been used. The MCU could have a runaway code resets: on an Illegal (unassigned) instruction code , or failure to periodically ping a Watch Dog Timer.
I consider the power line filters mentioned in previous posts to be good insurance.
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Old 07-18-2019, 04:41 PM   #90
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Most if what I've read is about the 1200s having problems with fridge cooling but I'm having the same problem with a 2118x 4 door. Have a 2019 Fusion toyhauler so I don't thing "age" is a factor. First week we had the unit fridge went from working to non-working. Fix from Norcold was to just bypass the new thermistor they added up in the upper part of the fridge. Thought that fixed the problem but now it is starting again. Freezer seems fine, just fridge. I've checked the high temp led and it shows fine, added a small extra fan in the outside lower access to move more air. The factory 3-4 inch whisper fan is a bad joke. Every time I call Norcold all I get is the answer machine and no answer back. Any suggestions short of lawyers?
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