Community Forums

Gparham · 12-15-2015, 10:04 AM

I have a Dometic 1350 brand spanking new 2016 in a slide out its been running a month total the freezer on 5 29 degrees max the fridge it might get to 46 and if you avoid at all costs of opening the door it might keep 49-50 average. I read it with a refrigeration thermometer as well as the factory digital. At least that is pretty much accurate for the most part ... Well anyone with insulin knows 45 degrees is the majic number. But I can't get it anywhere near that. I contacted Dometic and because I travel ( full timer) we have to pay the service trips and if it isn't warranty or manufacture related we are stuck with that as well ,, I loved the keystone Montana we just bought it's beautiful but after a month it's obvious that the manufacture has some issues of quality for instance the shower doors installed backwards the drains go to the floor instead of the shower side duh""" the toilet lol that's a beast in itself the gasket doesn't even sit on the flush ball
But besides that back to my issue if anyone has a fix I would appreciate it. I need minimum 45 degrees ref ridge temp

sysman · 04-10-2016, 04:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gparham

I have a Dometic 1350 brand spanking new 2016 in a slide out its been running a month total the freezer on 5 29 degrees max the fridge it might get to 46 and if you avoid at all costs of opening the door it might keep 49-50 average. I read it with a refrigeration thermometer as well as the factory digital. At least that is pretty much accurate for the most part ... Well anyone with insulin knows 45 degrees is the majic number. But I can't get it anywhere near that. I contacted Dometic and because I travel ( full timer) we have to pay the service trips and if it isn't warranty or manufacture related we are stuck with that as well ,, I loved the keystone Montana we just bought it's beautiful but after a month it's obvious that the manufacture has some issues of quality for instance the shower doors installed backwards the drains go to the floor instead of the shower side duh""" the toilet lol that's a beast in itself the gasket doesn't even sit on the flush ball
But besides that back to my issue if anyone has a fix I would appreciate it. I need minimum 45 degrees ref ridge temp

The problem with refrigerators in slideouts is the hot air has to make a 90 degree turn without a fan to exit. I am able to get my Dometic refrigerator to cool as low as 33 degrees and sustain temperatures less than 40 degrees with moderate opening and closing of the door for less than $40 in parts.

The solution is to mount fans at the top of the baffle in the refrigerator compartment and on the heat exchanger. I also have a adjustable fan that runs on 9 volt D size batteries in the bottom of the refrigerator. The attached PDF file contains a part list, installation instructions and pictures. This should help solve your problem.

Tightwadted · 05-12-2016, 07:51 AM

We bought a 2015 KZ Durango, and now I am reading about the Norcold problems. Our fridge is a model N811FLT. Is this one of the problem N8 series?

schrod · 04-22-2017, 03:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sysman

The problem with refrigerators in slideouts is the hot air has to make a 90 degree turn without a fan to exit. I am able to get my Dometic refrigerator to cool as low as 33 degrees and sustain temperatures less than 40 degrees with moderate opening and closing of the door for less than $40 in parts.

The solution is to mount fans at the top of the baffle in the refrigerator compartment and on the heat exchanger. I also have a adjustable fan that runs on 9 volt D size batteries in the bottom of the refrigerator. The attached PDF file contains a part list, installation instructions and pictures. This should help solve your problem.

My Dometic 1350 has fans on the back to move air through the heat exchanger. My problem was that the mfr. did not provide enough baffling on the sides of the heat exchanger so the air would be forced to travel through it. I added insulation to the sides and this has greatly improved my situation. My biggest problem is the digital readout is off by 5 degrees. Is there any way to calibrate it? Thx

mikenmary · 05-30-2017, 09:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sysman

The problem with refrigerators in slideouts is the hot air has to make a 90 degree turn without a fan to exit. I am able to get my Dometic refrigerator to cool as low as 33 degrees and sustain temperatures less than 40 degrees with moderate opening and closing of the door for less than $40 in parts.

The solution is to mount fans at the top of the baffle in the refrigerator compartment and on the heat exchanger. I also have a adjustable fan that runs on 9 volt D size batteries in the bottom of the refrigerator. The attached PDF file contains a part list, installation instructions and pictures. This should help solve your problem.

Thanks for the great info here. I just wanted a little clarification on the airflow on the fans. On the three fans up top, I am guessing you want them to blow "outside," sucking air from the fins and exhausting. As to fan four, you want that one to blow on the heat exchanger, sucking air from the outside in. Correct?

KML · 08-10-2017, 11:17 PM

Hi there sorry if I am in the wrong thread! New and stressed fir time. I have a fridge issue and am wondering how you access the back of the fridge in this van. There is a window where the back of the fridge sits, how do you get it off to access the guts of the fridge system??? Van isminty don't want to bust anything. Thanks much!

Smittydos · 01-30-2018, 06:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KML

Hi there sorry if I am in the wrong thread! New and stressed fir time. I have a fridge issue and am wondering how you access the back of the fridge in this van. There is a window where the back of the fridge sits, how do you get it off to access the guts of the fridge system??? Van isminty don't want to bust anything. Thanks much!

What kind of refer. Is it gas & electric or straight electric? Maybe the mfg name, the model # and I assume it is an under counter refrigerator.

Smittydos · 01-30-2018, 06:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KML

Hi there sorry if I am in the wrong thread! New and stressed fir time. I have a fridge issue and am wondering how you access the back of the fridge in this van. There is a window where the back of the fridge sits, how do you get it off to access the guts of the fridge system??? Van isminty don't want to bust anything. Thanks much!

Also who made the van conversion?

Judster · 05-26-2018, 09:25 AM

Fridge works on gas not emectric

RayChez1 · 07-28-2018, 10:52 PM

I got my second installment from Norcold on my 1200 LRIM about three weeks ago.

OffGridDave · 08-09-2018, 07:56 AM

Hey folks, I am a new owner of an Alfa SeeYa 2002, it has been meticulously maintained and we are very excited. We do have a small (I hope) problem, in that the refer does not cool using LP. It cools fine with AC, it has a nice clear blue flame on LP, I have cleaned the Chimney and baffle and I have installed some cooling fans on the top of the coach above the Refer to exhaust the heat. The insulated chimney tin is quite warm, but the refrigerant tubes are not getting even a little warm except at the very bottom near the gas flame area. It works fine in AC mode, cools quite well and the refrigerant tubes get hot and all is good. Does any one in this astute assemblage have any ideas of what I am not seeing? Of what is going on? I'm at a bit of a loss.
Thanks,
OffGridDave

Old-Biscuit · 08-09-2018, 12:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OffGridDave

Hey folks, I am a new owner of an Alfa SeeYa 2002, it has been meticulously maintained and we are very excited. We do have a small (I hope) problem, in that the refer does not cool using LP. It cools fine with AC, it has a nice clear blue flame on LP, I have cleaned the Chimney and baffle and I have installed some cooling fans on the top of the coach above the Refer to exhaust the heat. The insulated chimney tin is quite warm, but the refrigerant tubes are not getting even a little warm except at the very bottom near the gas flame area. It works fine in AC mode, cools quite well and the refrigerant tubes get hot and all is good. Does any one in this astute assemblage have any ideas of what I am not seeing? Of what is going on? I'm at a bit of a loss.
Thanks,
OffGridDave

WELCOME!

Sent you a PM

Should have this posted in 'RV Systems & Appliances' section for better exposure

Need to check LP System Pressure

Correct pressure is critical for propane heat.....flame height/temperature of flame etc

Read my PM

Travellers · 10-08-2018, 07:59 AM

Hello, can anyone tell me if a Dinosaur Electronics circuit board works properly in our fridge. I was told that these replacement board do not communicate properly with the display board?
Thanks, John

IC2 · 04-10-2019, 06:54 AM

Many of us have read of the disaster tir1000 had when his MH with a Norcold 1200 series fridge set fire to his property. With that thread I've gotten a little apprehensive about the 1210 Norcold in our 5th wheel. Evidently there are several different recalls, of which, after spending some time looking, have no clue if ours has been done, or if so, which version. Or does it even matter as it's the current 'improved' model!

Our 5er is a 2014, early build in 2013 (May). I believe that after looking several places that 2012-2013 was a so-called transiotion year but have nothing 'official' to corroborate that. Norcold's latest web version recall has no issue date or version designation though it does have fridge and cooling unit S/Ns listed as the only indicator - but there are no tags on the cooling unit saying what has been done.

I am going to install an ARP device along with an added pair of temp switch controlled fans as a couple bandaids and maybe a Halon extiguisher ( if my ship comes in with some treasure ). Sigh. Things like this take some of the fun out of RVing