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Old 10-06-2019, 07:35 PM   #1
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Norcold Fridge AC Heater Replacement

Fridge started throwing no AC fault, works good on LP, F3 5a fuse blows repeatedly, 10a fuse tried and blew too. Ohmed the heaters; one ohmed at 64, the other at 23. Manual says it should be 64, so I reconnected that heater and F3 fuse held, fridge works on AC again.

Did the F3 fuse blow because the one heater ohmed at 23? Or did the new fuse not blow because it only has one heater? How does one change the AC heater? That is not in the manual I have.

Yes, I should put in a residential, or an Omish, or a cooler, or something else, but lets leave that discussion for later cause that ain't happening right now. Right now, I'm fixing a Norcold.

Thanks for your help, you folks are great!
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Old 10-06-2019, 09:33 PM   #2
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BOTH elements must work in order to generate the required amount of heat to boil sufficient ammonia into vapor for proper cooling.
One element only will NOT do it.


In order to replace elements (replace both at same time) you have to pull fridge out of cabinet enough to be able to reach the elements.
Unplug leads from circuit board
Open canister cover
Pull elements UP out of the holders...make take some wiggling even tapping upward depending on how stuck they are in the holders


Swap inside of holders with sand paper wrapped around a wooden dowel to clean any rust
Then push elements in until you hit the 'stop'
Plug leads back onto circuit board...clean/tight connection
Push fridge back in..secure and done




Above based on Norcold 1200.........????
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Old 10-06-2019, 09:36 PM   #3
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Unplug frig from 120VAC first!

Unplug heater elements. Remove sheet metal/tin from side of stack, gently separate insulation. wriggle element up out of the tube-shaped holder, element is pencil shaped. Insert new element, replace all insulation-completely, replaced tin.
If the element was shorted to the chimney, inspect for further damage.
Heating element:
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Old 10-11-2019, 05:05 PM   #4
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Ditto on the heater replacement.


The 23 ohm Hot to Neutral is way out of spec, and likely not a reliable unchanging situation. There likely was a short to the casing, Hot to Ground. Which should be checked too. Based on your ohm measurements I calculate 7 amps at 120v, but you blew a 10 amp fuse. So short to ground is high probability.
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