Norcold fridge does not turn on

[Dr4Film]

Originally Posted by Muddypaws

I wonder if anybody has added a removable panel outside to allow for easier access to the fans and the back of the refer?

Clearly the RV industry is not thinking of 'ease of service' when they throw things together. They'll put an access door on the side with a TV or a kitchen in it, why not the same kind of door behind the refer? That might be a good idea for residential refers as well.

Not that I know of but that's a GREAT idea not only for accessing the rear of any RV Absorption fridge but for accessing a residential in case a compressor needs replacing. Unfortunately the door would be rather large. I guess they figure that most people would remove the entire unit if work needed to be done on the rear side other than working on the control board and LPG burner.

I've built hundreds of custom computers and have never had a 'name brand' fan fail. I wonder where Norcold gets them?

Cheapest supplier no doubt.

They get from the same place where they buy their cheap cooling units!

Dr4Film ----- Richard

[jaminman]

Which would be best for a fan a 120v or a 12volt fan for cooling? If it triggers again will the magnet do the trick again. I spent about 3 hours yesterday working on this only to find a magnet would be the fix. I keep telling myself, "just gained more knowledge" lol. They do not make these MH for easy access, it took me about 90 minutes to get the panel off to gain access to the main board. I had to disconnect the ice maker unit, remove all wiring to get at the screws on the side that were hidden. At a shop charging around $100.00 hr. that would have been an expensive fuse to check. Ending up getting a wrench that works around corners,

[Muddypaws]

12 volt fans (more than 1) sucking air out the upper vent seems to be the best way to move air through these things.

If it trips again it's time to take it to a shop and have the boiler checked out by a professional and/or get the bad sensor replaced.

[Heber Eason]

Great idea.

[Jeff753]

Did it happen to get wet when it tripped. Either by a heavy rain storm or while washing the coach? The magnet will reset it but if it wasn't water you should probably gave if looked at.
I have an 01 Dynasty and the fridge ran fine but it was 13 years old. I just got this instead. Amish cooling unit.


Jeff

[jaminman]

Ok, I am still not sure what the issue is here. First off, when I originally had the problem with the fridge not turning on the recall box was not lit. When I tried the off/on button on the fridge it did not come on. Checked the power going into the black recall box and there was power. Fuse was ok on the main Monaco fuse board as well as on the fridge board, no on/off function or interior lights.

After messing around doing all this the light on the black recall box then came on? Did the magnet thing and it went out. I assumed that was the problem. Now when I remove the 5amp fuse for the fridge on the Monaco fuse panel there is still power to the black recall box, so from that I assume when the fridge did not initially work it may not have been the black box, but eventually the light did come on though? Any one have any ideas? I hope I explained this clearly, Peter

[racersedge]

Always interesting watching both sides in the norcold debate.I will say Iam on my third Diesel pusher and all had the 1200/10 series with the ice makers and all three have worked flawlessly. As far as one poster asking about access panels? All of mine have had them and and my current one has one at bottom and one at the top. The 1200/10 series have 2 fans mounted on the upper condenser >I added 2 more at the bottom and works great.One thing I have found that greatly aids cooling is don't park where the direct sunlite shines on the back of fridge .I think the FEDS should have MADE NORCOLD replace all defective cooling units on this 1200/10 fridge for free with no time limitations

[racersedge]

Originally Posted by Muddypaws

12 volt fans (more than 1) sucking air out the upper vent seems to be the best way to move air through these things.

If it trips again it's time to take it to a shop and have the boiler checked out by a professional and/or get the bad sensor replaced.

they have two factory installed fan that do this as it stands.If the boiler was bad it would never cool properly.If its cooling as per normal the boiler is fine.there has been a lot of the shut down sensors go bad.READ on yours if its d or E it should be ok if its A B or C have it replaced

[myshaggydog]

Just passing on our experiences. After a very bumpy ride on Route 288 going out of Richmond, VA our Norcold fridge started acting up. First 120V stopped working then propane stopped as well. So we stopped using fridge until we got up to Syracuse, NY from Crystal River, FL. We started smelling ammonia from the fridge, so I immediately unplugged and shut off the propane. I was pretty sure the cooling unit was shot. Took it to Camping World, Syracuse and the cooling unit was cracked. Got the Ok from Good Sam'e warranty to fix and we are just waiting for the part to arrive.

So when your fridge starts acting up be sure to have it checked by your dealer or authorized repair person after you have checked all the basics like fuses, unit plugged in, etc.

Best of luck.

[cdrprn]

We purchased our 2014 Itasca 32h almost two weeks ago. It has the 4-door NorCold in it. We are on our maiden voyage and just woke up to a 56 degree warm refrigerator. Having lost all our our food we bought a cooler and ice at WalMart and are headed home and I have scheduled a warranty check up on the 22nd. I'm not optimistic about repairs on this refrigerator. The prospect of a leak and fire are even worse though. It took all our resources to buy this RV so replacing the NorCold with a residential is not a option for us. I wrote to Winnebago and am hoping for something. Maybe it will take a class action lawsuit for people to stand behind their products when it's obvious they were poorly designed and dangerous. I guess it's why people prefer Toyota to GM these days.

[jaminman]

I checked the recall box and it says "revision E". So I assume that is a good one. Date is year 2013. What else would cause the on/off not to work and no interior light? Like I said before it did not come on before the black box light came on. Could it still be a defective box? From my understanding, the light comes on because the overheat sensor detected an over heat. How could it overheat if you can not turn the fridge on and it was off?

[jaminman]

I am shocked that they are still making them with the same flawed design? I hope things work out for you.

[racersedge]

Originally Posted by cdrprn

We purchased our 2014 Itasca 32h almost two weeks ago. It has the 4-door NorCold in it. We are on our maiden voyage and just woke up to a 56 degree warm refrigerator. Having lost all our our food we bought a cooler and ice at WalMart and are headed home and I have scheduled a warranty check up on the 22nd. I'm not optimistic about repairs on this refrigerator. The prospect of a leak and fire are even worse though. It took all our resources to buy this RV so replacing the NorCold with a residential is not a option for us. I wrote to Winnebago and am hoping for something. Maybe it will take a class action lawsuit for people to stand behind their products when it's obvious they were poorly designed and dangerous. I guess it's why people prefer Toyota to GM these days.

if its a 2014 its a new design and they have no known cracking cooling units so I suspect you have a failed board most likely or could be as simple as blown fuse etc

[336muffin]

Originally Posted by racersedge

they have two factory installed fan that do this as it stands.If the boiler was bad it would never cool properly.If its cooling as per normal the boiler is fine.there has been a lot of the shut down sensors go bad.READ on yours if its d or E it should be ok if its A B or C have it replaced

Sorry, but where is the fuse located for these 12v fans?