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08-03-2021, 01:53 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 28
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Norcold fridge flame roaring
Hi all,I have a norcold fridge n811r in my Damon Astoria and the gas flame is rawing loud sounding like there’s to much pressure the cooker gas rings are fine,any ideas?
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08-03-2021, 02:27 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Santa Clarita, CA.
Posts: 2,639
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prento
Hi all,I have a norcold fridge n811r in my Damon Astoria and the gas flame is rawing loud sounding like there’s to much pressure the cooker gas rings are fine,any ideas?
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“Rawing”?
Assume you mean ROARING?
I have no idea about that burner but Norcold changed the 1200 burner several years ago without notice nor part# change. They added an extra vent hole that causes the 1200’s to backfire, or “pop”. The only way to fix is fashion a vent restrictor to quiet it down. And of course Norcold doesn’t know anything and will only say they reserve the right to make changes, bla, bla
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Jeff - WA6EQU
'06 Itasca Meridian 34H, CAT C7/350
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08-03-2021, 04:59 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: NY State
Posts: 3,089
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCVJeff
“Rawing”?
Assume you mean ROARING?
I have no idea about that burner but Norcold changed the 1200 burner several years ago without notice nor part# change. They added an extra vent hole that causes the 1200’s to backfire, or “pop”. The only way to fix is fashion a vent restrictor to quiet it down. And of course Norcold doesn’t know anything and will only say they reserve the right to make changes, bla, bla
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Actually, they know all about the popping. But they won't ship the restrictor to one of the Great Unwashed (i.e., a customer!) under warranty, only to a dealer. The nearest one who will take it? 100+ miles away. 200+ miles round trip, twice, once to drop it off and once to pick it up. 85 bucks worth of diesel, give or take, plus another 20-25 bucks in gas. I'll get right on that. Thanks *so* much to Norcold. Grrr....
I made one out of SS (I am lucky enough to own a shear and roller, so it didn't take long). It works great and has plenty of spring tension to keep it in place. I just moved it over a bit at a time until the popping stopped. One could also use a hose clamp.
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John
1976 Southwind 28', '96 Winnie 34WK,
2006 Tiffin Allegro Bus 40QDP
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08-03-2021, 05:56 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Kamloops, BC, 60 miles from the Center of the Universe according to the Rinpoche, of the SF monks.
Posts: 7,305
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n2zon
I made one out of SS (I am lucky enough to own a shear and roller, so it didn't take long). It works great and has plenty of spring tension to keep it in place. I just moved it over a bit at a time until the popping stopped. One could also use a hose clamp.
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I don't have much of a pop coming from our 1211, but if you could post a picture of your fix, it may help others.
Thanks in advance.
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Happy Glamping, Norman & Elna. 2008 Winnebago Adventurer 38J, W24, dozens of small thirsty ponies. Retired after 40 years wrenching on trucks! 2010 Ford Ranger toad with bicycles or KLR 650 in the back. Easy to spot an RVer, they always walk around with a screwdriver or wrench in one hand!
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08-05-2021, 09:31 AM
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#5
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: West Palm Beach, FL. USA
Posts: 27,519
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I don't think prento's problem is a "pop". Hard to mistake a roar for a pop. Also hard for that little flame to roar, though.
I suggest cleaning the burner chamber under the boiler - there is likely an insect nest or rust flakes interfering with the gas & air flow to the burner.
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Gary Brinck
Former owner of 2004 American Tradition and several other RVs
Home is West Palm Beach, FL
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08-05-2021, 11:12 AM
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#6
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Senior Member/RVM #90
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Columbus, MS
Posts: 54,578
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Back some time ago I was having trouble with my Norcold 1200 cooling on propane. I called my friend David Force at RV Cooling Unit Warehouse, from whom I bought the cooling unit. He told me that I should be able to hear a definite "roar" standing outside next to the fridge access cover. I could hear the flame but it was not a roar for sure! He told me to remove the burner/orifice, soak it in 91% alcohol for four hours, then blow it out with LOW-PRESSURE air, cautioning me that high-pressure air could damage the orifice.
I did that and couldn't believe the difference! There was a definite roar when standing next to the access door, and it cooled great!
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Joe & Annette
Sometimes I sits and thinks, sometimes I just sits.....
2002 Monaco Windsor 40PBT, 2013 Honda CRV AWD
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08-05-2021, 11:34 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 26,642
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Should have a 'slight' roar but NOT a ROAR.....
Clean up the burner assembly
Orifice....soak in alcohol then air dry...not air compressor or poke anything thru it
Burner ....clean the slots/wire brush then blow it out using air compressor
****if burner slots are rusted out,,,replace
Spark electrode....clean using emery cloth to remove soot/carbon, clena up the high voltage wire connections and the mounting screw (ground source)
Bang on flue and blow some air up into opening (to really clean need to access top of flue/pull baffle --wire brush it/12 ga shotgun brush to sweep flue tube)
Dirty burner assembly will cause fuel/air mixture issues resulting in bad flame
Stove top burners and fridge flame can not be compared....
Stove top/oven has its OWN LP Reg to control stove/oven LP to 10"WC
Fridge is fed directly off Main LP System which S/B 11"WC
If after cleaning you still have a ROAR from fridge flame then you need to 'adjust' Main LP System REG....manometer/test fittings---OR buy new LP Regulator for that 2007 Damian and be done
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Dodge 3500 w/Tractor Motor
US NAVY---USS Decatur DDG-31
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08-05-2021, 06:13 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: NY State
Posts: 3,089
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unplanned Tourist
I don't have much of a pop coming from our 1211, but if you could post a picture of your fix, it may help others.
Thanks in advance.
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If I take it apart again...and remember...I'll take a pic to post. At present, I have no plans to do that (sorry). It's not that hard to get to, but it would take at least 30 minutes and I have to work in an awkward spot.
But it's just a round piece of sheet SS (.075" IIRC) that fits snugly over the tube. It has enough spring tension to stay put. It's really got to be rolled round. There's not a good way to form it without a roller IMO. It's perhaps half an inch wide, but much less than that overlaps the air ports in the tube. It blocks...I don't know...15% or so of the air ports, maybe a bit less, maybe a bit more?
I can measure the thickness of the SS stock (I have more of that) if anyone would find it helpful, but my lay (non-engineer) opinion is that a relatively wide range of thicknesses would work fine.
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John
1976 Southwind 28', '96 Winnie 34WK,
2006 Tiffin Allegro Bus 40QDP
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08-07-2021, 02:13 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Santa Clarita, CA.
Posts: 2,639
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary RVRoamer
I don't think prento's problem is a "pop". Hard to mistake a roar for a pop. Also hard for that little flame to roar, though.
I suggest cleaning the burner chamber under the boiler - there is likely an insect nest or rust flakes interfering with the gas & air flow to the burner.
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They are actually one in the same. The new burner is so well “vented” that it occasionally backfires into the tube. Sounds strange but thats what it does. I’ve seen it.. I went down the road of cleaning it endlessly until i discovered they added a 4th mix hole. You don’t need to play games with shears and fancy custom mix shrouds. The immediate fix is to install a very small stainless hose clamp around the burner tube and set it as you would any other fridge mix vent and problem solved. Mine is completely quiet and makes enough enough heat that i can maintain 33/0 temps in the fridge with 103 temps outside. I’m doing it right now.
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Jeff - WA6EQU
'06 Itasca Meridian 34H, CAT C7/350
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08-07-2021, 04:26 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 5,345
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May be a different setup than our 611 but I think I remember having the slightly louder roar on ours when the burner rusted out some years ago. It wasn't cooling as well, I believe because the flame wasn't being directed up the flue correctly. I bought and installed a new burner to get it back up to par.
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03 Itasca Sunova, Workhorse P32 with the 8.1 and 4L85-E
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08-07-2021, 05:34 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 26,642
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OP has a Norcold N811....extra air mixture hole is not the issue
(nor do any of the N600/N800 series)
Norcold 1200....use to have just 3 air mixture holes then somewhere along the line 4th hole was added.
Then Popping/backfiring...Over firing issues
Air is drawn in thru those holes via venturi affect of gas flowing thru orifice
Controlling the amount of air will correct fuel/rich or air rich mixture
*Hose clamp works ---
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Dodge 3500 w/Tractor Motor
US NAVY---USS Decatur DDG-31
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