Norcold fridge issue

[6ft5TB]

Hi, I'm new to this forum. I just bought a used 2001 Holiday Rambler Endeavor 36ft gas with a Nor Cold 1200LRim 4 door fridge. In the process of trip prep I am unable to get the fridge to run on AC. When on LP it cools very slowly. Does anyone have any suggestions?
I have leveled the rig, DC batteries are in good shape, breakers checked, I'm plugged in via 50amp service, gas is on because stove burners work. Fridge panel shows no Err codes.
Any help would be much appreciated.

[Old-Biscuit]

Norcold 1200
Is it in AUTO Mode?
*Auto selects AC when available or swaps to GAS when NO AC is detected
If you select AC Manual Mode...what happens?

Verify that the Outlet Fridge Power Cord plugs into is energized...120VAC
*No AC check Circuit Breaker for Fridge/Receptacles --- turn OFF then Hard back ON

Got AC at outlet then you need to remove cover on Fridge Lower Circuit Board -----5A GLASS Fuse is for the AC Circuit/Heaters
Verify you have 120VAC on both sides of fuse (check it vs look at it)
Got 120VAC
Then need to check if the Heater Elements (TWO) are functioning
BOTH have to work for AC to properly heat and cooling unit to work

As for Propane/........slow to cool
Should do a thorough cleaning of burner and flue
*Orifice...unscrew and soak in alcohol then air dry **No Poking/High Air Pressure are you will damage the metered hole
*Burner...remove and clean out using small bottle brush
*Spark electrode...clean electrode with emerny cloth to remove any soot/carbon
*Flue...SHOULD remove baffle and chimney sweep the flue *That requires access to top of flue
(Otherwise bang on flue tube and clean up any rust that falls down

See Pg 26, 27, 28 for burner/flue cleaning
See Pg 30 for AC Element info
See Pg 40 for Lower Circuit Board info
See Pg 41 thru 44 for Operation Modes

1200 Service Manual
http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/ncold1200.pdf

[Goodspike]

Originally Posted by 6ft5TB

Hi, I'm new to this forum. I just bought a used 2001 Holiday Rambler Endeavor 36ft gas with a Nor Cold 1200LRim 4 door fridge. In the process of trip prep I am unable to get the fridge to run on AC. When on LP it cools very slowly. .

What do you mean by that? Cools from being room temperature? I always allow mine 24 hours to cool before using.

[NXR]

The absolute first thing you need to do, if you haven't already, is check to assure the recall was done. Norcold fridge's built between roughly 1997 and 2010 had a major problem where they would catch fire and burn the RV to the ground within minutes. Numerous RV's burned to the ground because of this defect. This is one of the recall pages:

https://norcold.com/recall-informati...-dec8f104-b62d

I'd find the serial number and call the 800 number ASAP and not use the fridge at all until you know if the recall was done.

The recall installed a high temperature probe and a small box with a red LED on it. If an overtemp condition is detected, it shuts the fridge off. I think the overtemp is 700 degrees, which is darn high.

There is a third-party product that does a much better job of detecting overheat conditions than the recall does: https://www.arprv.com/

Good luck,

Ray

[6ft5TB]

Thanks for all the info. So far what I have figured out is that my coach batteries are toast. I have replaced them. I also found out that the coach batteries are not charging on a shore line 50 amp service. Is this normal? They appear to charge while chassis is running or geny is running only. This seams counter intuitive to me.
Anyway the old Batts died which killed the DC to the fridge which is required for the control circuit whether running on AC or LP.

[Ernie Ekberg]

Your batteries should charge either on shore or generator

[6ft5TB]

The owners manual says they charge on chassis running and geny but doesn't say anything about shore line charging.

[Old-Biscuit]

Originally Posted by 6ft5TB

The owners manual says they charge on chassis running and geny but doesn't say anything about shore line charging.

Engine running would charge via the Alternator

Gen & Shore power feed the Main AC Panel and one of the Individual Circuit Breakers would be for AC to your Converter
With AC Power Converter/Charger would maintain/charge batteries

Check that the AC CB for Receptacles/Converter is not tripped...turn OFF the HARD back ON

Got AC to converter...then need to check converter DC Output at DC Dist Panel AND at Batteries.

[6ft5TB]

Can the converter output be checked with load disconnected? Voltage on pack doesn't change whether shore line is connected or not. Have AC at converter when shore line is plugged in. Getting only 3VDC on output of converter with Batts disconnected. Pretty sure converter is toast. Do converters require being connected to a load to check output? (Load sensing)

[Ray,IN]

Originally Posted by 6ft5TB

Can the converter output be checked with load disconnected? Voltage on pack doesn't change whether shore line is connected or not. Have AC at converter when shore line is plugged in. Getting only 3VDC on output of converter with Batts disconnected. Pretty sure converter is toast. Do converters require being connected to a load to check output? (Load sensing)

Help get this straight. A convertor converts 120VAC to 12VDC, an inverter changes 12VDC to 120VAC, the battery charge portion of the inverter is a separate unit within the inverter.
Both should charge 12V battery system.
So no a converter does not need to be connected to a 12V load to sense output. An inverter, yes, it must sense a call for 120VAC wattage. Otherwise it stays in "sleep" mode until it either turned off or senses a current/wattage draw.

[Old-Biscuit]

Your 50A converter/charger is DEAD

Before replacing check the Reverse Polarity Fuses
2 Large AMP fuses (probably 40A)
Especially since you just installed new batteries.....
Hook them up backwards even for a second (or less) and those Reverse Polarity Fuses BLOW to protect Converter

When blown...no Converter DC Output

[6ft5TB]

This is a converter not an inverter. Its not the original unit that was in the coach so it has been replaced once already. The previous owner replaced the 55 amp with a 30 amp. When I replaced the Batts I doubled the amp hour of the pack. So I ordered a 60 amp. The fuses on the old one were fine. The unit was just toast. Is there an aftermarket upgrade to autostart the gene when Batts are low available out there?

Thanks for all your help guys. Its much appreciated.

[HarryStone]

Originally Posted by 6ft5TB

This is a converter not an inverter. Its not the original unit that was in the coach so it has been replaced once already. The previous owner replaced the 55 amp with a 30 amp. When I replaced the Batts I doubled the amp hour of the pack. So I ordered a 60 amp. The fuses on the old one were fine. The unit was just toast. Is there an aftermarket upgrade to autostart the gene when Batts are low available out there?

Thanks for all your help guys. Its much appreciated.

Magnum makes a auto generator start. I installed one on my rig.

https://smile.amazon.com/MAGNUM-MAGN...%2C191&sr=8-12

[NXR]

An inverter, yes, it must sense a call for 120VAC wattage. Otherwise it stays in "sleep" mode until it either turned off or senses a current/wattage draw.

Are you sure? That would mean there is no way to test it without a load. I've fixed dozens of non-RV inverters in my career and none behaved like that. If there's no load you still had 120 VAC but the inverter pulled almost no current from the 12 VDC side.

Ray