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Old 05-14-2021, 11:21 AM   #1
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Norcold fridge not cooling

well i'm back with my fridge again. back in january you folks helped me troubleshoot my problem. turned out the door was out of alignment. it has worked great until now. lost my temps. the leveling chamber is not warm to the touch. i hot wired the 2 leads from the heating rod. the alarm on the fridge activated- says no AC. is this because i bypassed the circuit board? can anyone tell me what my next step should be? thanks
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Old 05-14-2021, 11:22 AM   #2
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n 1095 fridge in my slide
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Old 05-14-2021, 11:29 AM   #3
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Yes, if you removed the normal AC connection and put it straight to the heating element then the control would show no AC.
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Old 05-14-2021, 11:36 AM   #4
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Did you try unplugging thermistor and checking if fridge would cool down?
Does it cool down using propane?

YES the Alarm is because you bypassed the circuit board

When you directly wire the AC Element it is energized continuously
Run it that way for 12HRS........if cooling unit is capable of cooling the food compartment should get cold enough to freeze food items (careful if you have canned sodas/beer etc)

IF fridge cools down then either the thermistor (temp sensor) is bad or the circuit board is bad

Make sure the external fan(s) are running
*thermostat for fan is connected to far right FIN on condenser unit at top of fridge (accessible via top sidewall vent cover)
thermostat closes at 130*F FIN temp to aid in airflow/draft across condenser. Opens at 115*F
If not running could be part of issue also

Service manual
https://norcold.com/wp-content/uploa...52C_091407.pdf
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Old 05-14-2021, 11:40 AM   #5
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started the force cool this morning. will monitor it for the next 12 hours. thermistor is about 4 months old. while i am force cooling, should i disconnect the thermistor? thanks again
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Old 05-14-2021, 11:43 AM   #6
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Does it cool running on propane??
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Old 05-14-2021, 12:15 PM   #7
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haven't tried it on propane yet. so do i run it on propane before the force cooling?
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Old 05-14-2021, 12:29 PM   #8
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With 'force cooling....everything is bypassed---circuit board, thermistor, thermostat etc

External fan should run if thermostat on condenser fin is working

IF force cooling since this AM you should feel freezer plate getting cold and FIN in food compartment cooling down
Absorber tube bundle should be warm

No propane.....can't force cool using propane only the electric element
*when not cooling on one heat source you should always try the other heat source to see if it cools or have same not cooling issue
Better troubleshooting to help eliminate source of problem

BUT you are already force cooling so leave it be and check after 12HRS
**Force Cooling is last step in troubleshooting

Preliminary steps
Visually inspect for signs of cooling tube leaks...smell of ammonia/yellowish residue
Fridge level
No obstructions in ventilation
External fan(s) operate

Then
1st step ---try cooling on other heat source
2nd step...if cools on other heat source then need to troubleshoot the heat source that is NOT cooling
3rd step....if both heat sources do not cool then unplug thermistor and run w/o that temp sensing and check cooling capability
4th step....force cool via AC element directly plugged into 120VAC outlet
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Old 05-14-2021, 12:48 PM   #9
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got it-thanks
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Old 05-14-2021, 07:32 PM   #10
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well- the temps in the fridge and freezer did not cool down. the absorber tube bundle is cool. no obstructions for ventilation, fridge is level, no evidence of ammonia leakage. so i rewired back to the original setup. i will run it on propane overnite.
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Old 05-14-2021, 09:43 PM   #11
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Did the 'stack' get warm/hot???
Did element get hot?

If fridge didn't cool down from forced cooling with a working element....cooling unit is toast

Hopefully the propane will cool down and element is bad
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Old 05-15-2021, 10:17 AM   #12
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morning- well it did not cool down overnite. the stack is warm. 87 degrees. sounds like i'm gonna be in the market for another cooling unit unless there are any more troubleshooting ideas. any opinions on the difference of the amish cooling unit opposed to the norcold?
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Old 05-15-2021, 10:28 AM   #13
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Try it on propane before concluding that the cooling unit is bad.


Said another way, you have NOT proven the heating element is working properly/sufficient BTU's of heat produced to cool the refrigerator.


So, connect everything as it should be and try it on propane. Run it for 12+ hours.



Then evaluate performance.


Absolutely, if you smell ammonia or see any yellow powder turn off all heat sources and indeed look for a new cooling unit, new refrigerator or perhaps a residential refrigerator (depends on budget and how you use the RV).
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Old 05-15-2021, 10:38 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfe10 View Post
Try it on propane before concluding that the cooling unit is bad.


Said another way, you have NOT proven the heating element is working properly/sufficient BTU's of heat produced to cool the refrigerator.


So, connect everything as it should be and try it on propane. Run it for 12+ hours.



Then evaluate performance.


Absolutely, if you smell ammonia or see any yellow powder turn off all heat sources and indeed look for a new cooling unit, new refrigerator or perhaps a residential refrigerator (depends on budget and how you use the RV).
OP just posted propane results.........no cooling
this was after forced cooling using element...no cooling

OP
Cooling unit is toast

Amish replacement units have good reviews....heavier tubing/double absorber tubing bundle, install dual exterior fans above absorber tubing etc

Best of luck
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