Norcold fridge problem

[bwanna2016]

i am not getting good temps in my norcold n1095 fridge. i've replaced the thermistor. it's attached to the 10th fin from the right. my diagnostics show that fin at 81 degrees. with my laser thermometer, it reads 38 degrees. i checked the back of the unit thru the vent covers and there are no obstructions. the fan is located in the new location position at the top. i am on shore power and i haven't heard the fan run for several days. does it only run when i am on propane?
old biscuit had mentioned back in may of this year that i could test the cooling unit by plugging the fridge leads directly into a 120 outlet. can someone explain to me where i find these leads? again-- this is a 2 door n1095 norcold with ice maker installed in my slide out. i would appreciate some guidance on this problem because i'm getting frustrated with this problem. i would like to check out all my options before i just throw in the towel and buy another unit. thanks for the help

[US1]

Originally Posted by bwanna2016

old biscuit had mentioned back in may of this year that i could test the cooling unit by plugging the fridge leads directly into a 120 outlet. can someone explain to me where i find these leads?

These are the 2 leads that come from the heating rod that are plugged onto the circuit board on the back of the fridge. Simply unplug them and connect those leads directly to a plug. I just used a cheap 3' extension cord (can use a 2 wire appliance cord, ground wire not used) and cut the recepticle end off and connected the heater rod wires to those leads. You are bypassing the whole fridge circuit board this way.

[Old-Biscuit]

Norcold N1095 Service Manual
See Pg 40
https://norcold.com/wp-content/uploa...52C_091407.pdf

[bwanna2016]

i run the leads tomorrow--thanks for the help

[Old-Biscuit]

Originally Posted by bwanna2016

i run the leads tomorrow--thanks for the help

Did you force cool it with leads direct???

Did it get cold/cool down in BOTH freezer and food compartments??

Any update to share...........

[bwanna2016]

the weather has turned cold. i'm waiting for a warm spell so i can see if there is a definite change in temps. i'll let everyone know the results.- thanks again

[RVThere]

You can also buy two small fans and a multiplug from Walmart. Plug fans and refrig into multiplug and direct fans to blow up to cool the fins.

I use this all the time in very hot outdoor temps to get better cooling.

PS - AC plug may be turned off during propane operation so may only work on generator or shore power.

[bwanna2016]

another ?dumb? question -- do i leave the fridge plugged into the circuit board while i am bypassing the board?. looks like i'll have a 2-3 day window for warmer temps.

[US1]

Originally Posted by bwanna2016

another ?dumb? question -- do i leave the fridge plugged into the circuit board while i am bypassing the board?. looks like i'll have a 2-3 day window for warmer temps.

The circuit board will have absolutely zero effect on the heating rod whether the board is powered or not when the heating rod is wired direct to a 120V outlet.

Just leave it unplugged or turned off

[bwanna2016]

hey-- thanks again

[Old-Biscuit]

FIN temp displayed is a function of resistance thru the thermistor----- 81*F indicates low resistance roughly 9000 ohms
38*F would be roughly 38,000 ohms
Suspect thermistor is bad, wiring/harness is bad or plugin connection is bad

*Fin Temp in food compartment is roughly 10*F LOWER then the air temp would be
FIN should be roughly 25*F to 30*F
***Laser thermometer (infrared) is not good way to measure fin temp due to the shiny metal surface)
Temps should be done with a thermometer placed inside a jar of water and set on shelf undisturbed for 12 hrs

External Fan....thermostat control
T-stat is attached to Condenser Fin (top of fridge) far right
T-stat Closes when FIN temp reaches 130*F turning Fan ON
T-stat Opens when FIN temp drops to 115*F turning Fan OFF
***Sounds like your T-stat is not working


120VAC Element Leads
That come from the element installed in tube on stack above the burner area
Leads go to the Circuit Board and are plugged onto it at the 'AC_HT_LO' terminal and the 'AC_HT_HI' terminal....left side under/3A AC Glass Fuse
**Will have to remove cover to access the Leads

Freezer gets COLD but Food compartment...not so
Fridge is LEVEL ---correct
External Fan MUST be operational to help enhance airglow (draft) in order to remove Heat.....Condenser FINS are critical to proper cooling
HOT Ammonia Vapor from boiler flows thru condenser section where the Fins remove the heat. That 'condenses' the HO Ammonia Vapor into a cool liquid. The more heat removed the more cool liquid is condensed. Cool Liquid becomes supercooled when it mixes with the Hydrogen gas...that super-cooled liquid removes heat from freezer FIRST and then from food compartment so freezer needs to get down to 10*F in order for that cold liquid to have capacity to absorb heat from food compartment

Airflow/Draft is critical to removal of heat
Proper clearances, baffles, fan, no dead air spaces...ALL are required for good heat absorption

Not only are there baffles on backside of cooling unit (if clearances are too wide) there is a Vertical Baffle on the FLUE Stack that directs the HOT Flue Away from the Condenser Fins. If not installed Hot Flue will blow onto the condenser fins ----adding MORE heat

Top of Flue should also have a 'Deflector' that directs heat away




Pg. 16 Thermistor Information
Pg. 21/22 Installation in slide out and necessary baffles
Pg. 25 Flue Heat Deflector Info
Pg. 30 External Fan/T-stat Info
Pg. 32 Vertical Flue Baffle info
Pg. 40 Circuit Board Components & Removal Info

https://norcold.com/wp-content/uploa...52C_091407.pdf