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88Shasta · 10-14-2013, 04:12 PM

I have an older Norcold refer and I was wondering how long it will take to get to it's optimal cooling temperature? Starting at around 85 degrees F.
Also, is it true that these older refers need to be initially cooling using either the AC or LP systems and that regular DC will not cool it down?
And lastly, after it gets to the optimal temp, what amount of time can it stay DC system?
Thanks a bunch smart people!

Doggy Daddy · 10-14-2013, 05:26 PM

Besides the outside temperature being a factor, also is the temperature of the items when you put them in the refrigerator.
It is always recommended you place pre-frozen items in the freezer if possible and also pre-chilled items in the refrigerator.
Sometimes I place frozen water bottles in the refer to speedup its cooling when loading it with food and drink.

Papa_Jim · 10-14-2013, 05:46 PM

We had an older Norcold fridge. It wasn't the same model as yours. I think it was model 682 or 683. It was a three way fridge: LP, AC, DC.

I assume our experience will be relevant.

When we had the Norcold fridge, we would turn it on the day before we wanted to start to load food into it. We tried to pre-cool our food in our house fridge, but that wasn't always possible. After loading the fridge, it would usually take another day to reach optimal temperature.

We found that the fridge cooled OK on AC. It seemed to have extra cooling power for getting warm food cooled down a little quicker on LP.

We found the cooling power was quite weak on DC. It was adequate for maintaining the fridge temperature when we were driving, but not when we were opening and closing the fridge door, or if we added warm food. For those reasons, we only used DC to try to maintain the temperature while we were driving. In hot weather, sometimes the DC wasn't powerful enough, and we'd keep the fridge on LP while we were driving. When we stopped, we switched to LP, or AC if available.

We only knew our fridge as an old fridge. We have no idea if it cooled better when it was new. While it seemed to work properly, in no way could its cooling capabilities be considered comparable to our house fridge.

Jim

BFlinn181 · 10-14-2013, 06:34 PM

The fridge requires 12 v for control and ignition, but it also sounds like you have one of the older 3 way models that actually cools on 12 v. I couldn't find any info on a Norcold 8286 model. It usually takes at least 24 hrs. for an RV fridge to cool down using 120 v or LP. As others said, chill all items in home refrigerator first before putting in RV fridge. !2 v cooling is not as good as LP or 120 v, but it helps maintain temp on the road. Using 12 v to heat the ammonia and start the cooling cycle is very draining of your 12 v batteries, it's better to use LP gas if you can. Their inefficiency on 12 v is why I don't think they don't make 3 way refrigerators anymore.

88Shasta · 10-14-2013, 07:33 PM

Thank you for the replies.

It seems that my fridge is not working properly.
I have not been able to get the LP to ignite yet. I'm thinking it might need a new gas valve shown in the picture below. Note the pictures below show the improperly hooked up. I have since then switch the pipes back to their correct location. I did this to bypass the gas valve which did not work.
The heating element does get hot when it's on AC power, but didn't not seem to cool the inside of the fridge down that much if any (in approx. 25-30 minutes)
Also, the cooling system makes a little ticking noise.

jesilvas · 10-14-2013, 08:58 PM

25-30 mins is NOT enough time. 24hrs or so is enough.

Also, what tests have you done to determine a bad gas valve? Not a bad thermocouple, ignitor, or board?

BFlinn181 · 10-14-2013, 09:21 PM

A dirty orifice or a bad thermocouple would be first top two on list of issues that can happen to a gas valve. I'd dismantle the ignition chamber and blow it out with air. (Don't poke anything into the orifice or you can ruin it) Once it is clean, test gas valve and circuitry by using a torch on the thermocouple and see if the electric valve and ignitor operate. If they do, you know to replace the thermocouple.

88Shasta · 10-14-2013, 09:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jesilvas

25-30 mins is NOT enough time. 24hrs or so is enough.

Also, what tests have you done to determine a bad gas valve? Not a bad thermocouple, ignitor, or board?

Well it seems that there is not any gas going through to the heater.

Doesn't the ignitor turn on when the gas gets to the burner orifice?

What should I test and how?

BFlinn181 · 10-14-2013, 09:57 PM

Does your stove work? LP tank has a manual valve and probably an electric valve that shuts off if the LP gas detector isn't sending a signal to open. (By the way if the LP detector is more than 5 years old it should be replaced) If you have gas at the stove, you should have it at the fridge. You could check by loosening the fitting before the valve to smell gas. In your first picture it also looks like the black knob on the 90º elbow might be turned off.

Tmalin · 10-14-2013, 11:12 PM

I always lite my stove to make sure I have gas flow before I try to start refer. Then I still usually have to cycle power on the refer a couple of times to clear the air out of the lines. The refers will only try to fire three times ad then shutdown for safety reasons. By lite the stove which has more flow than the refer you get the air out faster.

88Shasta · 10-15-2013, 12:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BFlinn181

Does your stove work? LP tank has a manual valve and probably an electric valve that shuts off if the LP gas detector isn't sending a signal to open. (By the way if the LP detector is more than 5 years old it should be replaced) If you have gas at the stove, you should have it at the fridge. You could check by loosening the fitting before the valve to smell gas. In your first picture it also looks like the black knob on the 90º elbow might be turned off.

Stove works and so does the water heater.
yes there is both a manual and electrical valve behind the refer panel.
What is the LP detector? On the refer panel? Where is it?
That black knob on the 90º elbow was off in the picture, but I definitely turned it on.
Gas is not going pass the electric gas valve as if it's stuck closed.

jesilvas · 10-15-2013, 05:45 AM

Is 12V getting to the refr gas valve? What is the resistance reading of the solenoids on the gas valve?

BFlinn181 · 10-15-2013, 08:58 AM

An LP gas detector is required in all RV's equipped with LP system. It sets off alarm when leaking gas fumes are sensed in RV. It is usually powered by 12 v and installed near floor of RV in aisle or cabinet base.

Safe T Alert RV Propane Detector and LP Detector

You'll need to put multimeter on the leads to the valve, unplug 120 v shore cord and turn fridge on to LP source. The multimeter should show current at the valve. By unplugging shore cord you are preventing fridge from defaulting to 120 v heat source, but switching from 'Auto' on control panel should also do that.

88Shasta · 10-15-2013, 12:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BFlinn181

An LP gas detector is required in all RV's equipped with LP system. It sets off alarm when leaking gas fumes are sensed in RV. It is usually powered by 12 v and installed near floor of RV in aisle or cabinet base.

Safe T Alert RV Propane Detector and LP Detector

You'll need to put multimeter on the leads to the valve, unplug 120 v shore cord and turn fridge on to LP source. The multimeter should show current at the valve. By unplugging shore cord you are preventing fridge from defaulting to 120 v heat source, but switching from 'Auto' on control panel should also do that.

The gas valve is not getting 12V. It's only getting 5VDC and the resistance between the two terminals on the gas valve is around 80~85 Ohms.

Bad power supply? Bad board? Bad valve?