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brendanf · 01-10-2023, 08:42 AM

First time taking our used 2020 KZ Connect 261RB out for an extended period, I am living in it for work. Our fridge is not cooling, we thought maybe it was just taking a long time to cool down with a few things in it, but neither the fridge or freezer are working. It's been on for 42 hours now and still not cold.

It has power, I believe it is only 12v and no propane. I can adjust settings/lights come on/etc. I can hear refrigerant running through the freezer walls, and I can 'hear' the fridge running, but not super loud.

Norcolds only advice is "Take it to a service center" and none of the manuals I have go past any trouble shooting more than that of "turning it off and on again or making sure there's no airflow obstructions."

I haven't seen any error codes on the main control board display - also I haven't been able to see any thermistors, but I haven't taken anything apart yet. We thought it was cooling before we bought groceries with just the one item in it, but let the groceries sit in there for 12+ hours and they had gotten warmer. Again, freezer and fridge are not full or being blocked by air flow.

Really hoping I can give it a once over before paying a mobile RV tech.
I am handy and can fix most things myself, so long as I have a tutorial/guide to follow. I'm just not the kind to KNOW what to check outside of - does it have power. I haven't pulled it out of its cubby yet - I was hoping I could get to the compressor from the exterior but it doesn't look that way.

MrMark52 · 01-10-2023, 09:10 AM

Yours is a direct expansion unit with a compressor.

If it’s not cooling but the compressor is for sure running and you hear refrigerant gurgling, particularly in the freezer area, then the system very likely has a refrigerant leak.

It’s possible (but unlikely) you could have a failed door seal.

Generally in a DX system, a refrigerant leak can be found by looking for traces of oil at any refrigeration system assembly point - copper/copper welds, copper/aluminum epoxy joints, and any where refrigerant tubing penetrates a metal endplate, such as the ends of the cooling coils.

Repairs are generally not easy to make without a good vacuum pump, bottle of dry nitrogen, a torch, silfoss (assuming copper/copper joints), and a means to measure ounces (and I mean ounces) of refrigerant, and a new filter/drier.

brendanf · 01-10-2023, 09:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MrMark52

Yours is a direct expansion unit with a compressor.

If it’s not cooling but the compressor is for sure running and you hear refrigerant gurgling, particularly in the freezer area, then the system very likely has a refrigerant leak.

It’s possible (but unlikely) you could have a failed door seal.

Generally in a DX system, a refrigerant leak can be found by looking for traces of oil at any refrigeration system assembly point - copper/copper welds, copper/aluminum epoxy joints, and any where refrigerant tubing penetrates a metal endplate, such as the ends of the cooling coils.

Repairs are generally not easy to make without a good vacuum pump, bottle of dry nitrogen, a torch, silfoss (assuming copper/copper joints), and a means to measure ounces (and I mean ounces) of refrigerant, and a new filter/drier.

Thank you! I am at work right now but will pull it out later - I do construction management so I'm familiar with MEP systems - but the details of troubleshooting is where my knowledge stops and I rely on my trade partners to do their magic lol

If its a leak I would have no issue calling a repair tech to come braze, purge, and refill the system. I should hopefully be able to find one if its there. I can check the door seals and make sure nothing looks out of whack.

Aside from pulling it out and physically getting near the compressor, I can't say for certain right now its running, I just know I could hear the fridge itself from the front face. I will try and run home at lunch and mess around with it.

Old-Biscuit · 01-10-2023, 11:42 AM

Installation Manual so you have an idea on how it was put in
https://norcold.com/wp-content/uploa...G_20220511.pdf

Owners Manual....troubleshooting starts on pg 9/10
Not very detailed other then basics
https://norcold.com/wp-content/uploa...F_20230109.pdf

Parts List should you need something
https://norcold.com/wp-content/uploa...8_20230109.pdf

brendanf · 01-11-2023, 10:05 AM

Haven't spoke directly to him yet, but it sounds like the repair tech said it's most likely a "bad cooling unit" he got no readings from his diagnostics run, found no refrigerant leaks, etc.

His opinion was to just go and find a regular residential fridge that will fit and stay away from the RV fridges - unless it was the control board on the back side, he says you usually just replace the whole thing, with how difficult it is to get parts.

Edit - obviously the big issue is 12v DC vs a 120VAC application.

my camper is 50amp, with the ability to add a second AC unit. Could I just add a new 15-20amp breaker and run new wires to 1. put a receptacle in for the residential fridge. 2. hard wire a new residential fridge?

I will be honest I don't know enough about the 12v appliances to know whether or not I can use the existing wiring setup, but I'm assuming no.