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Old 05-07-2021, 08:29 AM   #1
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Norcold N7LX

Works on fine propane but not AC. On AC the heater gets hot (2.2 amps at 118.6 VAC), the distillation column gets hot, but the fridge never gets cold on AC. Never get any kind of error message either. Would expect a NO CO after awhile. Ordered a new controller board.
Don’t know why it would be the board if it works fine on propane. If the controller does not fix it I will order a new heater. But I cannot find info on replacing the heater. Does it just pull out of the column easily and slide back in?
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Old 05-07-2021, 09:13 AM   #2
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First off, Welcome to IRV2!

How long are you waiting to see if the unit is cooling? On our Norccold, it might take 24 hours for it to cool down. If the column is getting hot the heater is working. You may have two heating elements and one could be out. Normally they just slip into a tube attached to the column, but they could be corroded in place and hard to remove.

There are others on here that are more expert that I (Old Biscuit) that may chime in and give you more advice.
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Old 05-07-2021, 09:58 AM   #3
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Your fridge uses one electric heater
120VAC---300W----48ohms----2.8A

Fridge has to be pulled forward in order to access the heater
It slides in/out of holder welded to boiler tube
Can be tough to remove...rock it back/forth to break any rust then pull it UP/Out of holder
New one goes back into holder until bead on element make contact with top of holder
***yours is close to specs but may not be generating sufficient heat
New element is Norcold 638374

There is 'no co' error on your model
Fault Codes for yor model start on pg 39

Diagnostic Modes for your model start on pg 50


Working on LP but not on AC
Circuit board has separate control circuits for gas and for electric
Not unusual for one to work and other not.

https://norcold.com/wp-content/uploa...r_N7N8-1EN.pdf
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Old 05-07-2021, 12:15 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit View Post
Your fridge uses one electric heater
120VAC---300W----48ohms----2.8A

Fridge has to be pulled forward in order to access the heater
It slides in/out of holder welded to boiler tube
Can be tough to remove...rock it back/forth to break any rust then pull it UP/Out of holder
New one goes back into holder until bead on element make contact with top of holder
***yours is close to specs but may not be generating sufficient heat
New element is Norcold 638374



There is 'no co' error on your model
Fault Codes for yor model start on pg 39

Diagnostic Modes for your model start on pg 50



Working on LP but not on AC
Circuit board has separate control circuits for gas and for electric
Not unusual for one to work and other not.

https://norcold.com/wp-content/uploa...r_N7N8-1EN.pdf
The heater is not frozen in place. I can wiggle it around. Canít I just lift it straight up and out without moving the fridge? The heater gets hot but after 6 hours there was no cooling detected at the fins. Is there a circuit on the controller that inhibits the flow through the column even though it allows the heater to get hot? That doesnít make sense. I was thinking that the angle of our driveway was too steep. But it worked on propane. The driveway drops about nine inches between the front and back axles. I raised the back axle about four inches- no difference in operation.
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Old 05-07-2021, 12:24 PM   #5
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I have one heater. I waited over night one time and 6 hours the second time. Thought the steep angle if the driveway was a problem but propane worked fine. There is about a 9 inch drop front to back between the axles. So I raised the back four inches, but no change in results. where I am is hard to get level.
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Old 05-07-2021, 01:14 PM   #6
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You might find some of Darren's RV refrigerator troubleshooting videos to be helpful ....
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...Pb02ayS5H1sKbB

Let us know what you discover.
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Old 05-07-2021, 06:18 PM   #7
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OFF level operation is KILLING your cooling unit

Coolant flows via heat and gravity
Heat boils the liquid ammonia into a HOT Vapor
Hot vapor then cools into liquid as it flows thru the condenser
That liquid flashes into super cold when it reacts with the hydrogen gas
Gravity then allows the coolant to flow back down thru absorber tubes/tank and back to boiler

Off level inhibits the gravity flow....causes coolant to overheat
Overheating causes the sodium chromate to crystalize which plates out onto inside of tubing....causes obstructions which causes more overheating/more crystals/more plating out....until cooling unit is blocked
Plating out is Permanent

Do NOT operate fridge unless LEVEL

No wonder it isn't cooling down on electric and surprised it did on LP
*LP does provide a slight higher heat transfer
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Old 05-07-2021, 07:50 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit View Post
OFF level operation is KILLING your cooling unit

Coolant flows via heat and gravity
Heat boils the liquid ammonia into a HOT Vapor
Hot vapor then cools into liquid as it flows thru the condenser
That liquid flashes into super cold when it reacts with the hydrogen gas
Gravity then allows the coolant to flow back down thru absorber tubes/tank and back to boiler

Off level inhibits the gravity flow....causes coolant to overheat
Overheating causes the sodium chromate to crystalize which plates out onto inside of tubing....causes obstructions which causes more overheating/more crystals/more plating out....until cooling unit is blocked
Plating out is Permanent

Do NOT operate fridge unless LEVEL

No wonder it isn't cooling down on electric and surprised it did on LP
*LP does provide a slight higher heat transfer
Now I feel sick. But thanks for clueing me in. I donít have access to the RV for a week or so. Iíll be sweating it out until I can try it on level ground. With my luck I ruined it. 😩
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Old 05-28-2021, 08:32 PM   #9
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A-OK

with the rv level the absorption fridge works fine on propane or 120vac. Thank goodness I did not ruin the fridge by trying to run it off level. one would think that the manufacturer would prevent off level operations if it ruins the fridge!!!!! I did not know off level operation was a no no. Who would?
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Old 05-28-2021, 09:16 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by rsockey View Post
with the rv level the absorption fridge works fine on propane or 120vac. Thank goodness I did not ruin the fridge by trying to run it off level. one would think that the manufacturer would prevent off level operations if it ruins the fridge!!!!! I did not know off level operation was a no no. Who would?
Any body that will read their RV Fridge Manual

Glad to hear fridge is working on AC & Propane
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Old 05-29-2021, 10:52 AM   #11
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Yes! I should gave read the fridge manual the day we bought the rv. Along with the other 30 manuals that were included. As newbie rv owners we were uninformed. SORRY OLD BIS!
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Old 05-29-2021, 11:42 AM   #12
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It's surprising what information can be gleamed from those manuals.
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Old 05-29-2021, 06:54 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rsockey View Post
Yes! I should gave read the fridge manual the day we bought the rv. Along with the other 30 manuals that were included. As newbie rv owners we were uninformed. SORRY OLD BIS!
I didn't read my Norcold fridge manual the 1st day, because my beer was plenty cold But I did get around to it. I have managed to leisurely fit in different parts of the coach based on how I use as a priority to understand it better. Reading this cite will exponentially increase your learning curve.

There are other things off the top of my head that are similar to this issue that you may wish to read upon .

Thing One - When to use and not use the leveling jacks (if you have) If on an incline you need to orient your coach properly and not over extend on steep slope.

Thing Two - when traveling to high altitude areas, 3,000 feet and above, there are certain processes in the manuals for Generator, Furnace and Fridge that may use propane
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