Community Forums

new2RVn · 05-14-2012, 06:39 PM

Add my Norcold issue to the growing list. It works great on AC but won't work on LP. The pilot lights but extinguishes after 30 seconds and displays "F" in the window. I cleaned and polished the burner, no help. Next I did the diagnostic test and the codes said the board needed to be replaced. I thought I would pick the minds of a few experts before ordering the new Dinasaur board. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

SUMDALUS · 05-15-2012, 04:47 AM

new2RVn,

Did you perform the diagnostic procedure shown below to arrive at the "Replace Power Board" decision?? If you did, then I certainly recommend the replacement board from Dinosaur Electronics - part number 6212XX applies.

Hope this helps.

new2RVn · 05-15-2012, 02:55 PM

Yes Dale, I did. Got the same result. I guess I was hoping for a different answer but expecting the worst. Thanks for your reply. I have heard good reviews for the Dinasaur boards. Word is they are better and more reliable than OEM from the manufactorer. Now off to order. Thanks again.

madman34 · 05-16-2012, 11:34 PM

First of all You are probably right about the board being bad but it makes me wonder what signal the sensor sends, voltage, resistance change, to tell the board that the flame is present or not. The flame seems to be there but the board says it is not and triggers the alarm and shuts it off. I had a Norcold in my old motorhome that would not recognize AC power and went to propane even though AC was there and getting to the board. I found a bad resistor on the board and replaced it myself instead of paying for a new board. I bet the flame signal could be analyzed, traced to the board component, and be replaced. I would look but my fridge burned up last saturday and I have nothing to test. I have heard of Your issue in many refers and furnaces and am sure it is an easy fix.

RV Wizard · 05-17-2012, 03:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by madman34

First of all You are probably right about the board being bad but it makes me wonder what signal the sensor sends, voltage, resistance change, to tell the board that the flame is present or not. The flame seems to be there but the board says it is not and triggers the alarm and shuts it off. I had a Norcold in my old motorhome that would not recognize AC power and went to propane even though AC was there and getting to the board. I found a bad resistor on the board and replaced it myself instead of paying for a new board. I bet the flame signal could be analyzed, traced to the board component, and be replaced. I would look but my fridge burned up last saturday and I have nothing to test. I have heard of Your issue in many refers and furnaces and am sure it is an easy fix.

You may want to start here: iRV2 Forums - Files - Flame Rectification Sensing

madman34 · 05-18-2012, 05:18 PM

Thanks for the data, I have always wondered how ther detected flame in these. I do have a meter that will read that but it does the poster no good if he does not, but if so then i would sure do that very easy test because it could be the sensor alignment or a simple to replace part.

mooseschulze · 07-02-2012, 11:11 PM

I Had the same problem. Cleaned the burner, replaced the sensor and tried adjusting the sensor. No luck. I have an electronics repair backround so faced with the prospect of spending $200 on a new board I removed the PC board, checked components and soldered connections in the sensor area of the board. No luck. After several tries I was finally able to determine what the problem was with my board and what I believe is probably wrong in most cases of this type of board failure. The problem is the ground return for the flame sensor circuit. The ground connection from the PC board to refridgerator chassis ground is accomplished by the metal lug nearest the spark generator coil (There are 2 lugs, one is not connected to any circuitry). This lug is rivetted to the PC board and over time and miles resistance builds up at this joint and there is no longer a return path for the sensor current. Hence the ignitor keeps trying to light the flame. To repair it I soldered a piece of wire to the lug and the PCB traces. I Also added an additional ground wire from the PCB to one of the other screws holding the board assembly in place. Do not simply run solder around the lug and PCB because over time it will probably seperate again. My unit is working perfectly and senses the flame in less than a second.