Norcold/NotCold when travelling??

[RonNBama]

I noticed when holding my hand over the uncovered top vent, the front section seemed to have more flow than the rear. Might be one fan has cratered.

Thanks for the panel setting suggestion. We usually run 2-4 but with this problem, I had kicked it up to 7 and I think the inside temp is actually about 5-degrees higher (ambient) than previously with a 3-setting!!!

Will do the LED light test/look-see at earliest opportunity.

lyledavid, I will look for your results also. Here in East TX, hot water is not a problem! The flow directly from the park's system is just about right for a luke-warm shower.

[krivanj]

I am in Texas. The Norcold 1200 warms up as we go down the highway on gas, until it is in the 50s. The air temp here is in the 90s. I can hear the outside fans running but not tell whether there are one or two running. Once we get to a campground and stop, the refrigerator temp starts going down and in the morning is in the low to middle 30s.
Before we left Florida two days ago I tested the fridge for a week under both gas and electric. I too found that the fan wires were reversed causing the fans not to run. Without moving the RV (did not think of that), after I found the fans were not coming on, it stayed in the 30s all day in 90+ heat there. I thought it was fixed.
I added a fan to the bottom of the back of the fridge but found I cooled the evaporation so much it never go hot and the whole thing shut down. Does this make sense?
I wrote this mostly to keep up with this thread to see what I can learn. Thanks everyone!

[MandG-Fun]

Interesting... I hadn't gotten around yet to post but having this exact issue too. And, I installed a new top vent this spring. I've got a smaller 841 Norcold which did not have outside fans. I installed them a few weeks ago after a few trips and the lack of fridge cooling while on the road. We just arrived on the east coast and I was thinking that the new vent may be the issue. My plan was to create a baffle at the front of the vent in case air was rushing down from the top. Not sure yet exactly how I will accomplish this. We will be on this trip for a few more weeks. Thinking to just use gaffers tape for now to see if there is any difference. Curious to hear what you other guys find.

[Dr4Film]

Folks,

Absorption RV fridges work on the physics of heat absorption first and then transfer. Therefore it is VERY important to have a perfect airtight seal between the cooling unit and the fridge body plus the proper amount of mastic where the tubes meet the fridge body.

Then it is critical to remove the heat quickly and efficiently from the cooling tubes in the rear so the process can work over again. If the heat from the food isn't transferred and removed then it will NEVER get cold.

I put in two sets of fans on the inside to circulate the cold air, replaced the thermistor twice, installed four rooftop box fans and tried not to open the doors very much but nothing helped.

I dealt with all of that for many years before I was fed up with dealing with barely frozen food, having a huge block of ice cubes that melted together and thousands of dollars of spoiled food that had to be thrown away.

Needless to say the NotSoCold is gone as of April 12 2012.

No regrets.

Dr4Film ----- Richard

[RonNBama]

I have a little more background to add here. Previous owner of this coach had the Norcold 1200IM double door replaced in 2005. His records show that he received the recall notice and applied for reimbursement in 2009. So, this is apparently a 2005 model unit.

That said, krivanj, where/how did you access the wiring to determine it was reversed? I assume you could see that the fans were not turning from some vantage point? I am beginning to wonder if there is a solution here. I could live with temps in the mid-40s for a couple of hours, but this 55-60 range makes me want to give up and go residential (which is a whole-nuther bag of snakes if I read correctly).

Maybe all this will become clear once I can pull the unit out far enough to get a visual. Sorry for the long-winded questions. Thanks again for all the advise. I have two more weeks to stew over the problem before I can stop long enough to tackle the repair.

[RonNBama]

I was typing while you were posting Dr4Film. My comment relative to the residential unit relates to the problem of getting the larger(?) residential into the RV. Sounds like a real struggle from other posts that I read somewhere.

Is the "lower vent" referred to in the installation manual that grill on the exterior of the coach? Duh? A complete set of how-too directions with not a single picture or diagram! Grrrr!

[Sammie]

Originally Posted by RonNBama

I was typing while you were posting Dr4Film. My comment relative to the residential unit relates to the problem of getting the larger(?) residential into the RV. Sounds like a real struggle from other posts that I read somewhere.

Is the "lower vent" referred to in the installation manual that grill on the exterior of the coach? Duh? A complete set of how-too directions with not a single picture or diagram! Grrrr!

Yes, the lower vent is the exterior plastic vent grill that you can see from the outside of your coach. If the fans are working, you should be able to hear them and also check the airflow by holding a Kleenex tissue near the lower vent and see if it is being sucked in towards the refrigerator.

Vent cover should look like this.




Sammie

[MandG-Fun]

Richard, I agree that there are benefits to a residential fridge over a Norcold, but there are also considerations to take into account before just heading to BestBuy with wallet in hand. I do believe it is possible to have a good running Norcold and we are just about there. I installed the Amish CU last year and added 2 external fans and 2 internal circulation fans. When we are stationary the fridge works fantastic. It is over 90 degrees and 90% humidity outside this week and we keep the fridge set to 3 or 4, freezer is low teens and fridge is 34-36. The only issue now is the problem RonNBama has with maintaining the temp on the road. I am sure its the new roof vent so just a matter of correcting the airflow.

A good working absorption fridge has a lot of benefits for those who dry camp a lot, like we do, or that are not full time that don't want to put a bunch of time and money into the conversion (which in most cases is more than simply buying a residential fridge).

Those of us who have conquered the problem and have a well behaved and operating absorption fridge should start a thread "How to make your Norcold cold and safe" to build a knowledge base and not just give the idea that the only solution is to trash the thing and buy a residential.

[MandG-Fun]

Originally Posted by RonNBama

That said, krivanj, where/how did you access the wiring to determine it was reversed? I assume you could see that the fans were not turning from some vantage point?

RonNBama,
You may just need to slide the fridge part way out and use an inspection mirror to see if your fans are running. You may even want to consider just replacing the fans and temperature sensor switch and adding an additional fan. It is bit of a pain to pull the fridge out and you'll need 2 people but its not a real big deal.

You can go the total DIY route on the fans and source them on Ebay or Amazon but Dave Force at RV Cooling Unit Warehouse has the parts at good prices and lots of knowledge that he is happy to share. Here is a link to the page with replacement fan kits and other accessories. Cooling Performance Enhancing Items - RV Cooling Unit Warehouse.

Glenn

[RonNBama]

Ambient temp is around 78 this morning. Fridge temp is hovering just above 32! So, we will start the drive with a nice cool compartment. Not enough airflow through the lower vent to be detectable though.

We shall see if my chants and incantations have had any effect (affect?) on the operation in a couple of hours.

[krivanj]

RonnBama, the fan wires come out of the circuit board with slide on lugs near the center bottom of the back of the refrigerator. On every one I've seen, one is white and one is black, white on left and black on right. You can see the wires through the access panel pictured above. They are labeled FLP DC HEAT and DC HT GND.
I am also in contact with a friend Who had this problem under gas and his gas regulator was putting out a low pressure.

[336muffin]

Subscribed

[Dr4Film]

Originally Posted by MandG-Fun

I am sure its the new roof vent so just a matter of correcting the airflow.

A good working absorption fridge has a lot of benefits for those who dry camp a lot, like we do, or that are not full time that don't want to put a bunch of time and money into the conversion (which in most cases is more than simply buying a residential fridge).

Those of us who have conquered the problem and have a well behaved and operating absorption fridge should start a thread "How to make your Norcold cold and safe" to build a knowledge base and not just give the idea that the only solution is to trash the thing and buy a residential.

Glenn,

That's a great idea regarding your thread about making a NotSoCold "Cold and Safe".

For me personally after putting hundreds of dollars and years of work into doing just that, I finally got to my breaking point while in Florida for the winter of 2012.

Regarding your roof-top vent, if it was replaced with the exact same style vent cover in the same location and everything else is identical to the old one, then chances are the new vent cover is not the cause.

Hopefully by following this thread you will find your answer.

Remember, heat is your enemy with absorption fridges.

Dr4Film ----- Richard

[RonNBama]

Cannot say if removing the dobber screens had an effect or not. Temp stayed in mid-40s today during our 4-hour trip to Eisenhower SP but ambient temp was 10-15 degrees lower with cloudy skies and some rain.

Thanks Dr. I will be checking the fans at first opportunity.