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Old 12-05-2020, 07:03 PM   #1
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Norcold refrigerator

Hi Guy we have a Norcold absorption ref, I thought summer heat was the bad, Question, we are in Indiana the nite time temps have been in the 20's day in the 30-40's. we have been plugged in to 30m amp service, the RV is a 50 amp system. Have plans to go south for winter but winter came early, too early. So in line with plans left ref running, heat not on in MH. went out today to start up heat and noticed Ref was not running, no power would not come on LP or EC? Any thoughts would be appreciated. Want to leave in 10 days
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Old 12-05-2020, 09:10 PM   #2
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Fuses in the board, (cover in the outside access) no 12v power is why you have nothing. Probably a fuse in the coach itself as well.
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Old 12-05-2020, 09:33 PM   #3
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Cold Night time temps...cold MH
Fridge coolant gravity flow was less then normal due to cold temps
Fridge OVERHEATED
Fridge High Temp Switch on burner stack tripped OR Recall Box Tripped (RED LIGHT ON)
When either trips...NO DC to fridge controls

Actual Model of fridge would be helpful
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Old 12-05-2020, 09:42 PM   #4
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If the red light is on move a strong magnetic around on the black box. It will reset it.
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Old 12-05-2020, 09:45 PM   #5
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Was there an error code on the LCD?
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Old 12-06-2020, 02:10 PM   #6
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Norcold ref

Shootist: I figured the fuse on the board outside, its becoming regular task had to do the same thing a few months back but was due to heat and possible rain.On the inside it has a breaker in the panel. Not sure about an inside fuse. Thanks
Old Biscuit: Guess I thought they would run in the cold, had issues with the heat a few months back. Actually considered adding fans to keep it cool. You say high temp switch on burner Stack, is that the box with the red light? Also "recall box" I assume that is the one with the red light.
Oh and no red light on. There is no power to fridg. no lights inside.
Sorry I know model helps, the book says it is a 120X-IMXX.
I did have a new cooling unit, 2 fans and a thermostat put in in 2013. There is a sticker that says the model no. is a 1200LRIM not sure if that was after rebuild or before.
Cassy: No red light have done the magnetic thing before.
Arch: the LCD on the front of Fridg is blank and power will not turn on.

I do have a light bulb back there now hope warming it up might do something and by miracle maybe it will start back up, wont hold my breath though. Guess lesson learned Shut the darn thing off when it is too Hot or Cold . Would just like to get it running now. heading to Florida in 10 days.
Thanks all
Jack
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Old 12-06-2020, 02:55 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J-N-Lham View Post
Shootist: I figured the fuse on the board outside, its becoming regular task had to do the same thing a few months back but was due to heat and possible rain.On the inside it has a breaker in the panel. Not sure about an inside fuse. Thanks
Old Biscuit: Guess I thought they would run in the cold, had issues with the heat a few months back. Actually considered adding fans to keep it cool. You say high temp switch on burner Stack, is that the box with the red light? Also "recall box" I assume that is the one with the red light.
Oh and no red light on. There is no power to fridg. no lights inside.
Sorry I know model helps, the book says it is a 120X-IMXX.
I did have a new cooling unit, 2 fans and a thermostat put in in 2013. There is a sticker that says the model no. is a 1200LRIM not sure if that was after rebuild or before.
Cassy: No red light have done the magnetic thing before.
Arch: the LCD on the front of Fridg is blank and power will not turn on.

I do have a light bulb back there now hope warming it up might do something and by miracle maybe it will start back up, wont hold my breath though. Guess lesson learned Shut the darn thing off when it is too Hot or Cold . Would just like to get it running now. heading to Florida in 10 days.
Thanks all
Jack
So you have a Recall Box (1200 Series Fridge) but no RED Light.
Then Overheat temp switch has NOT tripped

Then it is either the Source DC Fuse
*Check for 12V DC at the terminal block on backside of fridge

OR it is the DC Fuse ON the Lower Circuit Board
*could be a 3A , TWO 3A or a 5A Blade Type Fuse (S/N Dependent)

Source DC Fuse protects DC Wiring to Fridge
DC Fuse on Circuit Board protects Circuit board, controls/display, propane components.

Service Manual...Pg 9 NO DC
https://www.thetford.com/wp-content/...68C_022707.pdf
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Old 12-06-2020, 03:23 PM   #8
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Norcold ref

Old Biscuit Thanks for the manual got some reading to do. Sad I have had that control board box apart so many times you would think it would be old school. I just dont understand why they had to bury it behind so many wires, pipes, tubes....... Guess they dont want it to be easy. Oh well I guess I know where it is and where the screws are. So here we go again. Thank You Sir
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Old 12-06-2020, 09:04 PM   #9
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My control board is now covered with an improvised piece of cardboard after I had to do a reset on it.

Not fun getting to it first time but now it's a piece of cake.
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Old 12-08-2020, 09:52 PM   #10
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Norcold

Well turned cold again have not got the chance to break into that black box and check the fuse. Been busy trying to clean out S&B, sell what I can and haul to donate and some to storage. Hopefully house will be finished by the 15th and will have sunshine in my eyes!
Do have a couple more questions, Old Biscuit you expressed cold temps probably caused coolant to overheat thus i assume blowing the fuse. I did express I put a bulb behind fridge to attempt to warm up the refrigerant needless to say did not work. Just wishful thinking. Would it be a good idea to warm the back of unit after replacing fuse? Would hate for it to go again. Man I hate taking that box apart, i can see where one miss-move could cause a more serious issue. As I say very tight work space.


Arch, you mentioned an "improvised piece of cardboard. I find that idea intriguing, better than removing that plastic cover and all that is in front of it. I assume it has to be sealed somehow to keep the moisture/dirt out. Tips would be greatly appreciated.
I have to wonder why everything has to happen at once especially when you have lots more going on. I am getting closer although the clock is ticking.

Oh and to beat all have a Doctor appt. tomorrow (Wed) got a call, my Doc is sick, not sure with what or when/if he will be back he is a one man show, they will call to reschedule, just hope he is ok, I wouldn't want his job.
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Old 12-08-2020, 10:06 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J-N-Lham View Post
Well turned cold again have not got the chance to break into that black box and check the fuse. Been busy trying to clean out S&B, sell what I can and haul to donate and some to storage. Hopefully house will be finished by the 15th and will have sunshine in my eyes!
Do have a couple more questions, Old Biscuit you expressed cold temps probably caused coolant to overheat thus i assume blowing the fuse. I did express I put a bulb behind fridge to attempt to warm up the refrigerant needless to say did not work. Just wishful thinking. Would it be a good idea to warm the back of unit after replacing fuse? Would hate for it to go again. Man I hate taking that box apart, i can see where one miss-move could cause a more serious issue. As I say very tight work space.


Arch, you mentioned an "improvised piece of cardboard. I find that idea intriguing, better than removing that plastic cover and all that is in front of it. I assume it has to be sealed somehow to keep the moisture/dirt out. Tips would be greatly appreciated.
I have to wonder why everything has to happen at once especially when you have lots more going on. I am getting closer although the clock is ticking.

Oh and to beat all have a Doctor appt. tomorrow (Wed) got a call, my Doc is sick, not sure with what or when/if he will be back he is a one man show, they will call to reschedule, just hope he is ok, I wouldn't want his job.
Cold Temps can slow coolant gravity flow and cause the COOLANT to overheat...that would cause the Recall BOX to trip DC...RED Light ON'

No RED Light....NOT your issue

Light bulb in rear compartment of fridge WILL help keeps things moving/flowing.


You need to 1st CHECK that you have DC Voltage TO fridge
POS to 12VDC terminal and NEG to GND1 terminal
Got DC to fridge then check the DC Fuse on circuit board
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Old 12-08-2020, 11:04 PM   #12
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My "Improvised cardboard" is simply a large piece of cardboard big enough to completely cover the board from any water that may blow through the external cover of the refrigerator compartment.

I figured I'd do more damage reinstalling and them removing the plastic cover should I need to do a reset again.

The reason I had to do a reset on my Norcold 1200 series was that I turned it on before a trip and it was 115 degrees inside the coach. The Norcold wants to see a certain drop in degrees after X amount of time.

Because it was so hot it failed to drop enough so it shut down twice and wouldn't come back on until I did a reset on the main board.

I actually left a wire attached to the board in case I had to do another reset.

These are the instructions for a reset.

https://www.arprv.com/no-co-norcold.php
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Old 12-13-2020, 06:25 PM   #13
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Norcold Final Chapter

Got a couple 50 degree days so got out and checked it out. Turned out to be the 5amp blade fuse. Worse part had to remove that cover again. Best part fridg is working again. Might have messed up a heavy brown wire going close to the exhaust stack. If it moves the power will click off/red light on move a little more and will start up again.

Thanks to all for the suggestions, manuals and improv.
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Old 12-13-2020, 06:47 PM   #14
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Thanks for the update....I bet you are starting to know more about that refrigerator than you ever wanted to know.
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