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10-08-2020, 07:14 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 12
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Norcold refrigerator clicking noise from relay on circuit board
This one gets weird.
Plugged into shore power the control board 628661 in the norcold will start clicking repeatedly when on automatic. When switched to 12V and Propane it will continue to click just long enough for the igniter to trigger and then click again. Now remove shore power and the unit will work perfect set on auto or gas. Obviously running on gas and 12v.
Spent quite some time troubleshooting and now it is dark outside. I plugged into shore power again and the clicking begins on schedule with the switch set on auto. When I enter the rig and turn on a light, bingo, the clicking stops and the fridge starts working. Switch the fridge to gas and wala, no clicking. Now turn off the light and click, click, click.
Looking back the board was replaced about a year ago for a clicking but apparently that was not the issue.
The cooling fan in the inverter stopped working, I replaced it but perhaps there is another issue with that? Just so odd that one light fixture 12v is enough to change the issue.
If anyone has encountered this I would appreciate some feedback. Checked 120v is good.
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10-08-2020, 09:18 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 26,810
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AC Voltage checked...but have you checked the DC Voltage?
With and w/o lighting loads on?
Fridge uses DC for switching relays on circuit board.
__________________
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Dodge 3500 w/Tractor Motor
US NAVY---USS Decatur DDG-31
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10-09-2020, 07:44 AM
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#3
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit
AC Voltage checked...but have you checked the DC Voltage?
With and w/o lighting loads on?
Fridge uses DC for switching relays on circuit board.
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Thank you for your response.
I checked the DC coming out of the inverter at the battery connections and I see 13.4 DC no matter what. (Plugged into shore power or not) I thought next I should disconnect the battery from the inverter and see what it is putting out with the batteries disconnected. The batteries could be "conditioning" the output. It does appear that the coach batteries are being recharged as they have not gone dead.
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10-09-2020, 09:51 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 26,810
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Inverter......
Has DC Voltage INPUT from Batteries and 'inverts' that DC into an AC OUTPUT for the 120VAC system
Charger on inverter will maintain batteries when connected to AC Source
Batteries provide the DC System
__________________
I took my Medication today. HAVE YOU?
Dodge 3500 w/Tractor Motor
US NAVY---USS Decatur DDG-31
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12-11-2020, 05:37 PM
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#5
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2020
Posts: 3
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Ever get this figured out? I have been searching around and found this thread. I have a Norcold doing the exact same thing. Clicking on shore power when there is no other load. As soon as I turn on anything the clicking stops.
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12-12-2020, 10:39 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 26,810
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AC Ripple (above 6VAC) on DC System will cause chattering of relays on circuit boards
__________________
I took my Medication today. HAVE YOU?
Dodge 3500 w/Tractor Motor
US NAVY---USS Decatur DDG-31
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12-12-2020, 11:03 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Clovis, CA, USA
Posts: 13,138
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What model Norcold?
__________________
2004 Monaco La Palma 36DBD, W22, 8.1, 7.1 MPG
2000 LEXUS RX300 FWD 22MPG 4020 LBS
Criticism is easier than Craftsmanship
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12-13-2020, 11:36 AM
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#8
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2020
Posts: 3
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My norcold is an N821
I think Old-Biscuit might be right. The converter is the original MagneTek that also makes some electrical noise when under low load.
I will test the AC ripple and see what I can figure out.
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12-15-2020, 08:56 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 26,810
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seventh7of7
My norcold is an N821
I think Old-Biscuit might be right. The converter is the original MagneTek that also makes some electrical noise when under low load.
I will test the AC ripple and see what I can figure out.
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Magnetek
**your OLD Fuse board has Unfilter section (fuses 1-6) and Filtered Section (Fuses 7, 8, 9) Only 3 circuits filtered!
If it is a 6300 Series I would go with the 45A KIT for the 6300 Series
Replacement converter/charger unit, new DC Fuse board, built-in 3-stage charging and 100% filtered DC output
New fuse board...all 9 are Filtered......removes the AC Ripple
45 Amp Kit For 6300 Series
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I took my Medication today. HAVE YOU?
Dodge 3500 w/Tractor Motor
US NAVY---USS Decatur DDG-31
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12-15-2020, 10:51 PM
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#10
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2020
Posts: 3
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I was thinking about updating the converter with a 4645VL but I guess I need to check what model I have as it might need the 6300 I guess.
The site does not clarify well but I am guessing the two are different sized and I just need to see what my unit is. I took the RV back to have the roof repaired so I can't check which model is currently in there.
I see the 6300 is cheaper than the 4645 you would think the higher model number would be more expensive
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12-16-2020, 05:45 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2020
Posts: 1,852
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I believe, as I am currently doing the same swap.......
6300 is the series number of your now obsolete unit. If it’s a 45A unit, then it’ll be a MagneTek 6345.
The 4645VL will be the ‘upgrade kit’ from Progressive Dynamics to fit inside your existing MagneTek housing. You will remove the guts, (converter/charger and DC fuse circuit board) and replace with the PD 4645 kit. The AC side of your unit will be retain, as is the housing and front cover. I did this same swap a few yrs ago in my sisters horse trailer. Literally a simple 30 min swap. Bolts directly in old housing. Thus upgrade kit allows us to not have to do any cabinet modifications, nor mess with the AC side.
__________________
2017 Fleetwood Bounder 36Y
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12-16-2020, 08:14 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 26,810
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Difference between the 2 kits
45A Kit for 6300 series....3 stage charger
PD4645V ......4 stage charger (PD has optional remote $15 that allows you to monitor the status/mode of your charger and manually select or override the automatic charge mode)
I revoke my previous recommendation and would opt for the PD model
($20 for more unit!!)
__________________
I took my Medication today. HAVE YOU?
Dodge 3500 w/Tractor Motor
US NAVY---USS Decatur DDG-31
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12-17-2020, 04:08 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2020
Posts: 1,852
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Quote:
Originally Posted by US1
I believe, as I am currently doing the same swap.......
6300 is the series number of your now obsolete unit. If it’s a 45A unit, then it’ll be a MagneTek 6345.
The 4645VL will be the ‘upgrade kit’ from Progressive Dynamics to fit inside your existing MagneTek housing. You will remove the guts, (converter/charger and DC fuse circuit board) and replace with the PD 4645 kit. The AC side of your unit will be retain, as is the housing and front cover. I did this same swap a few yrs ago in my sisters horse trailer. Literally a simple 30 min swap. Bolts directly in old housing. Thus upgrade kit allows us to not have to do any cabinet modifications, nor mess with the AC side.
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Please disregard my above post. I misunderstood a previous post and responded which included an error (past the edit time) which will create some confusion. My apologies
__________________
2017 Fleetwood Bounder 36Y
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12-17-2020, 09:19 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 26,810
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Quote:
Originally Posted by US1
Please disregard my above post. I misunderstood a previous post and responded which included an error (past the edit time) which will create some confusion. My apologies
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WHY?
Information is correct
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I took my Medication today. HAVE YOU?
Dodge 3500 w/Tractor Motor
US NAVY---USS Decatur DDG-31
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