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Old 06-14-2021, 03:41 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by georgelesley View Post
Your symptoms are similar to what we had a few years ago. We blew the 12v fuse which I wondered about since fuses do not normally blow for no reason, would not get cold sometimes, sometimes hard to get lit on propane, sometimes not. I checked the inside thermistor and it was good. Finally put in a new circuit board and that fix it. Can’t guarantee that is your problem but if the thermistor checks good and all else looks good, might be worth a shot. Amazon had ours cheaper than anyone else
Our refrigerator is under warranty so our next step is to take it to an authorized Norcold service center. Thank you very much for all your assistance.
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Old 06-14-2021, 07:38 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by RBOC77 View Post
We have a Norcold 1210M model. It is on AC no error code but will not get cold. I have checked the burner area for dirt and spider webs and then used an air compressor and blew out the area. This is getting worse.

This morning you were on AC and working Fine....
Now not cooling on AC either?

Both heat sources having issues.....AC working/not cooling
Can't get GAS to light off

Sounds like circuit board issue.

Definitely Warranty ......good luck!
Hopefully just a bad board and Not the cooling unit already

Are the external fans coming on?
Are both AC elements getting energized?
*both have to work for proper heating

Did you get the LP to ignite?
Try the BBQ Lighter?

Here is 1210 manual
http://www.rvrefrigeratorrepair.com/...d-Service-1210
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Old 06-15-2021, 03:50 AM   #17
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So in summary we are experiencing two problems with our almost new ( purchased and installed July 30 2020) refrigerator. (1) Propane will not light and (2) the refrigerator will not cool. This morning I checked the refrigerator after it was on for 9 hours with no error codes and the temperature in the refrigerator was 68 degrees and in the freezer it was 28 degrees. Yesterday I tried using a bbq lighter to see if was the igniter, and there is no sign of propane to ignite. That leads me to possibly a regulator issue. Bottom line, I am not sure why the 8 amp fuse blew on the control panel and that leads me to believe we may have a bad circuit. But why is the freezer getting cold and not the refrigerator?
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Old 06-15-2021, 11:24 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by RBOC77 View Post
So in summary we are experiencing two problems with our almost new ( purchased and installed July 30 2020) refrigerator. (1) Propane will not light and (2) the refrigerator will not cool. This morning I checked the refrigerator after it was on for 9 hours with no error codes and the temperature in the refrigerator was 68 degrees and in the freezer it was 28 degrees. Yesterday I tried using a bbq lighter to see if was the igniter, and there is no sign of propane to ignite. That leads me to possibly a regulator issue. Bottom line, I am not sure why the 8 amp fuse blew on the control panel and that leads me to believe we may have a bad circuit. But why is the freezer getting cold and not the refrigerator?

Freezer is FIRST in the cooling process...until it is COLD they is not much absorption available for cooling of food compartment
Freezer needs to get to10*F before food compartment can effectively cool down

Blowing the 8A AC Fuse....short in AC circuit/element
With 2 elements BOTH have to work for fridge to cool
One bad one....blew fuse...now only one is working

Gas valve....
When switch to LP can you feel the gas valve solenoid get warm? Hear it CLICK? Measure 12VDC at it?
Bad solenoid...no gas flow
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Old 06-16-2021, 04:10 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit View Post
Freezer is FIRST in the cooling process...until it is COLD they is not much absorption available for cooling of food compartment
Freezer needs to get to10*F before food compartment can effectively cool down

Blowing the 8A AC Fuse....short in AC circuit/element
With 2 elements BOTH have to work for fridge to cool
One bad one....blew fuse...now only one is working

Gas valve....
When switch to LP can you feel the gas valve solenoid get warm? Hear it CLICK? Measure 12VDC at it?
Bad solenoid...no gas flow
I can hear the solenoid click when we switch to LP. I will check the to see if the solenoid is getting 12 volts. We have had the refrigerator on for 16 hours without opening the door.
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