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Old 06-13-2021, 03:16 AM   #1
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Norcold Refrigerator error no-ac

We have a 2005 Monaco Diplomat and 9 months ago we purchased and had anew Norcold refrigerator installed in our motorhome. Unfortunately, two days ago we got an error message “no-ac”. We can run the refrigerator on LP but not the generator our the house batteries. We have checked the outlet, gfi and fuse and they are fine. We contacted Campersworld to see if we can get it serviced under the warranty but they are booking a month out. Any recommendations or suggestions would be helpful.
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Old 06-13-2021, 04:40 AM   #2
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Just to double check, you took a meter to the 120v outlet the frig is plugged into and you have power there. You took the black cover off the back of the frig and check the two fuses on the control board.

I would call a mobile tech to come and look at it. Sometimes getting things fixed is more important than fixed under warrenty
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Old 06-13-2021, 05:00 AM   #3
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Just to double check, you took a meter to the 120v outlet the frig is plugged into and you have power there. You took the black cover off the back of the frig and check the two fuses on the control board.

I would call a mobile tech to come and look at it. Sometimes getting things fixed is more important than fixed under warrenty
If the a/c outlet is good, maybe the 110v fuse on the circuit board. If not that, maybe the ac heater quit. You can bypass the circuit board and jumper the ac heater direct to ac power to see if the the problem is the circuit board or not.

Our Norcold started having intermittent problems and a circuit board change solved it.
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Old 06-13-2021, 05:03 AM   #4
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I hated my Norcold fridge in my 07 Ellipse.
If I ran it on auto, it would beep until I switched it to gas or Electric.
Never got cool enough.
I just hated it

My old 2004 Southwind had a smaller Dometic and it was really cold all the time.

My Samsung residential in my 2020 is truly amazing.
Never going back to absorption fridge.
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Old 06-13-2021, 11:58 AM   #5
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I am going to take the black panel off and according to the owners manual there are two fuses, one is 5 amp and one is 8 amps. Are they the fuses you are referring too...
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Old 06-13-2021, 12:18 PM   #6
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I am going to take the black panel off and according to the owners manual there are two fuses, one is 5 amp and one is 8 amps. Are they the fuses you are referring too...
Yes. The plug in one is 12v and the clear glass round one is 110v, i don’t recall the average of the 110v fuse but 8 amp sounds close. The 12v one is 5 amp I seem to remember.
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Old 06-13-2021, 02:59 PM   #7
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Yes. The plug in one is 12v and the clear glass round one is 110v, i don’t recall the average of the 110v fuse but 8 amp sounds close. The 12v one is 5 amp I seem to remember.
It was a bad fuse, the round clear glass fuse was blown. No for another issue. The igniter will not light the gas I suspect there is air in the line. Any recommendations on how to bleed the line? Rich
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Old 06-13-2021, 03:35 PM   #8
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It was a bad fuse, the round clear glass fuse was blown. No for another issue. The igniter will not light the gas I suspect there is air in the line. Any recommendations on how to bleed the line? Rich
We turn on a burner and let it go for a bit then try fridge.
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Old 06-13-2021, 04:59 PM   #9
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We turn on a burner and let it go for a bit then try fridge.
We turned on all the burners on the stove plus the furnace and then the refrigerator and it did not light.
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Old 06-13-2021, 10:21 PM   #10
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We turned on all the burners on the stove plus the furnace and then the refrigerator and it did not light.
Might have to try it several times in order to get full pressure/flow at the gas valve for fridge

Course that is IF the Spark Electrode Is Firing...CLICK, CLICK, CLICK


the 8A Glass Fuse is just for the AC Circuit/Heater Elements
The 5A Blade Fuse is for the DC circuits...circuit board/controls/display/interior light and triggers the AC Relay for the elements
**5A Blade fuse has to be good otherwise NO fridge functions period
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Old 06-14-2021, 07:47 AM   #11
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Might have to try it several times in order to get full pressure/flow at the gas valve for fridge

Course that is IF the Spark Electrode Is Firing...CLICK, CLICK, CLICK


the 8A Glass Fuse is just for the AC Circuit/Heater Elements
The 5A Blade Fuse is for the DC circuits...circuit board/controls/display/interior light and triggers the AC Relay for the elements
**5A Blade fuse has to be good otherwise NO fridge functions period
We replaced both fuses and we are operational for ac and gen. We are still trying to get the LP to fire up and I can see the spark electrode is firing but not lightening the propane. We will continue to bleed the line with the stove.
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Old 06-14-2021, 11:29 AM   #12
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We replaced both fuses and we are operational for ac and gen. We are still trying to get the LP to fire up and I can see the spark electrode is firing but not lightening the propane. We will continue to bleed the line with the stove.
Are you getting a 'No Fl' error?

Need to check that the gas valve solenoid is getting 12VDC at the same time spark electrode if firing
*and that the ground is clean tight for solenoid

Also check that the spark electrode is positioned directly over the burner slot and the gap is 1/8" - 3/16"

You can use a BBQ Lighter to see if burner will light off....
Could be gas valve is opening but orifice/burner assembly are obstructed ---- spider webs will really mess up gas/air mixing


Suspect that from error code you have a Norcold 1200
See pg 10
https://www.thetford.com/wp-content/...68C_022707.pdf

If not 1200....post the correct model!
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Old 06-14-2021, 02:08 PM   #13
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Are you getting a 'No Fl' error?

Need to check that the gas valve solenoid is getting 12VDC at the same time spark electrode if firing
*and that the ground is clean tight for solenoid

Also check that the spark electrode is positioned directly over the burner slot and the gap is 1/8" - 3/16"

You can use a BBQ Lighter to see if burner will light off....
Could be gas valve is opening but orifice/burner assembly are obstructed ---- spider webs will really mess up gas/air mixing


Suspect that from error code you have a Norcold 1200
See pg 10
https://www.thetford.com/wp-content/...68C_022707.pdf

If not 1200....post the correct model!
We have a Norcold 1210M model. It is on AC no error code but will not get cold. I have checked the burner area for dirt and spider webs and then used an air compressor and blew out the area. This is getting worse.
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Old 06-14-2021, 02:34 PM   #14
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We have a Norcold 1210M model. It is on AC no error code but will not get cold. I have checked the burner area for dirt and spider webs and then used an air compressor and blew out the area. This is getting worse.
Your symptoms are similar to what we had a few years ago. We blew the 12v fuse which I wondered about since fuses do not normally blow for no reason, would not get cold sometimes, sometimes hard to get lit on propane, sometimes not. I checked the inside thermistor and it was good. Finally put in a new circuit board and that fix it. Can’t guarantee that is your problem but if the thermistor checks good and all else looks good, might be worth a shot. Amazon had ours cheaper than anyone else
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