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Old 07-09-2014, 05:40 PM   #15
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Beuller, Beuller ??

What happened to Newmar ? Can a brother get some love ?
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Old 07-13-2014, 06:06 AM   #16
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Hehe.. sorry.. vacation called!

Ok... loosen/remove the control board and pull it out of the way without unwiring anything. Behind there you'll find a bridge rectifier. It's square, has AC marked on 2 leads and a + - marked on the other. This creates some DC power from AC that the unit is producing for the control circuitry.

Using your volt/ohmmeter set to OHMS auto-ranging...

(1) Write down or mark where EACH of these 4 wires plugged onto the bridge rectifier!!

(2) Remove the two wires marked AC and the two marked positive (+) and negative (-) leads from the rectifier terminals.

(3) Touch either one of your meter leads to either one of the AC terminals and the other meter lead to the positive (+) terminal. Write down/record the ohms reading.

(4) Now reverse the leads using the very same two points on the rectifier. Record the ohms.

(5) Now repeat the test using the negative (-) terminal to either one of the AC terminals on the rectifier.

A good rectifier will have a higher reading in one direction. If both readings are the same on either AC terminal then the rectifier is bad/failed.

Post your results...
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Old 07-13-2014, 03:35 PM   #17
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AWESOME !!! I assume the fuse makes no difference at this point ? I'll have to pick up some 5 amp slow-blow tomorrow. Hopefully, it'll stop raining so I can get out and check this thing.
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Old 07-13-2014, 04:00 PM   #18
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No, you can do all the checks above without the fuse in it. You're unwiring the bridge rectifier anyhow.
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Old 07-13-2014, 06:02 PM   #19
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Ok, it stopped raining 10 minutes for me to check this. Meters + lead on AC(1) w/ - lead on positive term = 3.93, reversed the leads = OL. Meters + lead on AC(2) w/ - lead on negative term= 3.04, reversed the leads = OL. Is that how it's supposed to read ?

I did notice that the butt connector on one of the AC terminals was very loose, and possibly not connected. When i pulled the wire off, the connector's crimps just broke off. I did not get a chance to replace it, because it started to rain, but I didn't have any 5 amp fuses anyway. So I'll pick some up tomorrow, and replace that connector.
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Old 07-14-2014, 04:23 AM   #20
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Yes, that bridge rectifier is ok based upon your readings - So, fix the wire you think was off/loose/bad, new 5amp slo blow and see if that takes care of your issue.
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Old 07-19-2014, 07:47 PM   #21
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Work is killing me. I just got around to fixing the wire today. Still no joy. It spins 4-5 times, then the fuse blows. What can I check next ? Could it be as simple as the control board ?

Thx !!!
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Old 07-20-2014, 04:45 AM   #22
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Yes it's possible a diode or other component has failed on the board itself but there are no (easy) tests.
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Old 07-20-2014, 05:37 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tekrsq View Post
This weekend we turned on our Onan Emerald 1 genny while boondocking. When it started, it seemed to "search" with either no load, or a light load (fans, etc) running. I got it to smooth out by adjusting the idle linkage up a little bit. It ran for about 2 hours, then shut off. It would not restart, no click, no nothing. I checked the 5a fuse on the control panel, and it was blown. I replaced it, and the genny would then crank about 3 times and blow the fuse again. It did this a few times. I've checked the wiring I can see, and everything looks ok, but obviously there is a short somewhere.

Is this indicative of a bad control panel, or should I be looking somewhere else ? Is there a way to test the control panel before I waist money on a control panel ?

Thanks
You used the word it seems to search if that means speeding up and slowing down I had one to do that and the float was sticking I just backed off the needle valve and screwed it back good as new and adjusting the linkage to make it run faster would be a big no no just a guess.
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Old 07-20-2014, 06:04 AM   #24
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You used the word it seems to search if that means speeding up and slowing down I had one to do that and the float was sticking I just backed off the needle valve and screwed it back good as new and adjusting the linkage to make it run faster would be a big no no just a guess.
Whaaa? Now we know why punctuation is necessary...

Tim
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Old 07-20-2014, 08:16 AM   #25
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Whaaa? Now we know why punctuation is necessary...

Tim
I never understood why people make fun of stroke victims or the mentally disable but hey.
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Old 07-21-2014, 03:58 AM   #26
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Yes it's possible a diode or other component has failed on the board itself but there are no (easy) tests.
Suggestions ?? You think it's worth replacing the board to see what happens ? I just don't want to waist money replacing the board just to have it blown again if something else is wrong.
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Old 07-21-2014, 04:14 AM   #27
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I think we have one of these in the our storage area at work. Let me test a couple of things on it today before you order a new board.
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Old 07-22-2014, 04:12 AM   #28
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i think we have one of these in the our storage area at work. Let me test a couple of things on it today before you order a new board.
thank you !!!!!
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