Community Forums

tekrsq · 06-23-2014, 04:40 PM

This weekend we turned on our Onan Emerald 1 genny while boondocking. When it started, it seemed to "search" with either no load, or a light load (fans, etc) running. I got it to smooth out by adjusting the idle linkage up a little bit. It ran for about 2 hours, then shut off. It would not restart, no click, no nothing. I checked the 5a fuse on the control panel, and it was blown. I replaced it, and the genny would then crank about 3 times and blow the fuse again. It did this a few times. I've checked the wiring I can see, and everything looks ok, but obviously there is a short somewhere.

Is this indicative of a bad control panel, or should I be looking somewhere else ? Is there a way to test the control panel before I waist money on a control panel ?

Thanks

94-Newmar · 06-23-2014, 06:45 PM

Can you post your full model number? Some SPEC units choke and fuel pump were fused there. I can verify this with the full model number. Since it just 'shut off' earlier, I suspect your issue could also lie in either of these.

tekrsq · 06-24-2014, 04:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 94-Newmar

Can you post your full model number? Some SPEC units choke and fuel pump were fused there. I can verify this with the full model number. Since it just 'shut off' earlier, I suspect your issue could also lie in either of these.

Thanks for the help !! It is a model 4.0BGE-1R/26100C

94-Newmar · 06-24-2014, 05:19 PM

Ah! Good ole SPEC C points and condenser type of iginition! Oldie.. but a goodie!

Do you have any other switches that start/stop the genset?
Does it start then blow the fuse regardless of which start/stop button you're using?
Unplug the long harness, right side of the control box - that merely disconnects any other switches that may be used to start/stop the unit. Try starting again from front of the generator. Does it still blow fuses?

If so, there are numerous other tests we can do, starting with the voltage regulator

tekrsq · 06-24-2014, 05:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 94-Newmar

Ah! Good ole SPEC C points and condenser type of iginition! Oldie.. but a goodie! Do you have any other switches that start/stop the genset?

Yes. There is remote switch in the cabin.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 94-Newmar

Does it start then blow the fuse regardless of which start/stop button you're using?

Yes

Quote:

Originally Posted by 94-Newmar

Unplug the long harness, right side of the control box - that merely disconnects any other switches that may be used to start/stop the unit. Try starting again from front of the generator. Does it still blow fuses?

Yes

Quote:

Originally Posted by 94-Newmar

If so, there are numerous other tests we can do, starting with the voltage regulator

It cranks 3-4 times and then when it seems like the engine "catches" and is beginning to run, it immediately blows the fuse and shuts down. Does that description make sense ? lol

94-Newmar · 06-24-2014, 06:07 PM

How handy are you with a volt/ohm meter? Do you want to tackle checking the voltage regulator? I think this is the next logical step troubleshooting this.....

tekrsq · 06-25-2014, 04:54 AM

I know how to use a volt/ohm meter, and I'm pretty good following direction. I just don't have a clue where to check on this thing or the values I'm looking for.

94-Newmar · 06-25-2014, 05:01 AM

Ok.. let me paste this from the service manual....

TESTING VOLTAGE REGULATOR VR1
Use a meter with a diode checking function to perform the following
tests:

1. Disconnect the negative (-) battery cable.
2. Remove the generator control box cover
3. Disengage the wiring connector and remove the voltage regulator.
4. With the meter on “Diode Check”, test between connector terminal pairs as follows:

5-9
7-9
10-9
11-9
12-9
10-5
5-11
5-12
5-3.

It is important that the positive lead of the meter be connected
to the first terminal of each pair.

Replace the voltage regulator if any reading indicates “short” or “open“,
except for pair 10-5, which should indicate “open”.

tekrsq · 06-25-2014, 01:58 PM

I don't think my meter has a diode check feature. I know my old one did, but think this one just has the basic ohm meter. I'll check when I get home.

Or am I simply looking for an open circuit ? I should be able to do that with a simple ohm meter.

94-Newmar · 06-25-2014, 04:21 PM

No, you need it to be in diode check mode - otherwise every reading you get is going to be erroneous.

tekrsq · 06-25-2014, 05:06 PM

Ok. I'll have to see if a friend has one. It'll be a few days. I just found out I have to leave early tomorrow to go out of town for a few days.

tekrsq · 06-26-2014, 04:54 AM

I just ordered a meter with a diode check feature from Amazon. Hopefully it'll be here by the time I get back Monday.

tekrsq · 06-30-2014, 06:44 AM

Ok, out bright and early to work on this thing. Got a stupid question. Where is the voltage regulator ? I've pulled the control board cover out, and I don't see anything that looks any type of voltage regulator I'm familiar with.

There is nothing in the control box with 12 pins.

tekrsq · 06-30-2014, 08:16 AM

Apparently I do not have a traditional voltage regulator. Apparently I have a "transformer" mounted on the rear of the engine which I am going to have to pull the genny to get to if it needs replacing. Is there a way to check that thing without pulling it out ? I found a service manual for the genny, and it has all sorts of wiring schematics, etc in it, but I have no clue how to interpret them, or what to test.