Please help to check the Solar setup

[hclarkx]

Originally Posted by tina2

Thank you, hclarkx
(Nice trip to the Sequoia NP. )

After reading your explanations and watching some videos, now I get that about the capacitor pre-charge thing. And I went back to read your previous post about the bridge resistor. That totally makes sense to me now.
Thanks for the great tip.
So I do the pre-charge every time I power on the Inverter, right?
(I guess we will keep the inverter breaker open and power off the inverter most of the time. And only close the breaker and power on the inverter when we need it.)

Since you said mounting Class T fuses is kinda hard and the Terminal Fuse Block seems very easy to me. So can I just use this as a backup plan?
(https://tinyurl.com/2p9fvdm3 200A)

Please see my updated sketch.
I'm so happy I have almost finished the design.

I'm a bit late to this one. The terminal fuse is a good idea. It won't interrupt a high current like a Class T but getting such a high current would be unusual. Also, some research I've been doing into the short-circuit current that LiFePO4 batteries can deliver suggests it's not as high as people say. Folks that use the battery internal resistance are calculating a number that is way higher than actual.

[hclarkx]

Originally Posted by tina2

Hi everybody,
Need your help again!
I finished my solar panels project, here is my final configuration.
I use "Renogy 3000W inverter" & 3 x Ampere Time 12V 100Ah Lithium batteries. But when I tried to run the air conditioner, it drew about 1.7kw (reading from the battery monitor). It lasted about 1 minute then the inverter beeped and reset automatically. Same thing happened when I use the Microwave (about 1.4kw). At first, I used 6AWG to parallel connect the batteries (by the battery manual), I thought maybe the cable couldn't afford the load, but today I switch to #2/0 to parallel connect the batteries, but still not working.

Can anyone give me some advice?

Thanks!!!

Sorry about the delay replying. Anything new to report?

My thoughts based on the above.

Nothing else is running when you fire up the microwave or A/C, right? I.e., the water heater is turned off at the water heater or its breaker is open (if it's on its own breaker). Etc.

With three batteries, you should be good for 300 amps. The Renogy 3 kW inverter can draw up to about 280 amps, but only if it has 3 kW of load on it. You have the batteries connected for proper current balance, so the 200 amps or so from a microwave or A/C should not cause a battery BMS to "open." If one were to open, the others would overload and also open quickly. A "weak" BMS might open prematurely triggering the others to also open. Seems unlikely but can't be ruled out from what we know so far.

There's nothing but #2/0 from the batteries to the inverter on both negative and positive routes, right?

Do you feel any heat in the #2/0 connections after the trip?

Can you watch the DC voltage with the monitor when you switch on the microwave or A/C (I'd use just the microwave for testing for now).

What is the monitor showing in the way of load/current on the batteries just before you switch on the microwave?

If you want, you can call me. I'll post my number in a pm. Best to call since I don't get on-line every day and am preparing for an excursion.