Power keeps cutting off then coming back on - no tripped circuits

[RichK]

Hi Everyone - this has been stressful, and I think I may know the solution, but I'd like to know if anyone has had a similar situation before I do anything.

Details - My rig is 30amp, and I'm plugged into 30amp power at an RV park. The park circuit breakers aren't tripping, so the issue is in my rig (I assume).

I have an EMS (Progressive Industries) installed with readout, so I can see how many amps I'm pulling and how many volts the park is supplying (120 - 124 solid).

Issue: Periodically - not always - while using more than 15amps of power, all the power in the RV shuts off and then tries to come back on almost instantly. When coming back on, it struggles a bit - I can hear the power trying to come back almost with a 'click' 'click' and then after a minute it will come back on.

Running the Heat Pump has made this happen, running the electric water heater, and using the microwave/convection has made this happen. At no time am I approaching 30amps. Also, none of the circuit breakers on the coach trip.

If I'm not running a high-load appliance, the power doesn't cut off.

Also, this happens even if I turn the EMS off, so I don't think the EMS is doing it - although the EMS still acts as a surge protector when off (I don't think this would do anything).

Possible Culprit: My house batteries are 36 months old, and are standard lead acid batteries. I've been told that's a long time to make lead acids last, and I've taken very good care of them. I fill them regularly and keep them fully charged regularly.

I've been told that the house batteries/converter-charger could cause the issue I'm having. I'm planning to get new batteries, but just wanted to check - does that sound like it would cause the issue to anyone else? I'd think a circuit breaker would trip?

Thanks for your help!

["007"]

You may want to check your load center, transfer switch wiring connection for loose screw wire terminals also check for possible burnt wiring.
If some thing is loose and heating up its possible you may have your conditions.
If everything is normal monitor the transfer switch dirty contacts on relay could be the problem.
House batteries should not be causing problem its your 120v power wiring through the transfer switch.
Do you also have a Surge Protector in your coach power wiring for it should be checked.

[Dr4Film]

The Click-Clicking you are hearing is most likely your transfer switch acting up and that would interrupt power to the coach.

Plus whoever told you that lead-acid batteries have a life-span of 36 months has no clue about lead-acid batteries.

I had one set of House batteries last me over 7 years with absolutely terrible maintenance and abuse. My Chassis battery was over 11 years and the only reason I had it replaced was I was feeling guilty it was lasting so long plus I was in Alaska where there is no sales tax and didn't want to have any problems while getting back to the lower 48.

Dr4Film ----- Richard

[RichK]

Ah - so if it's the transfer switch how would I monitor the 'dirty contacts on relay' and check the 'load center' etc..??

I'm not sure what to look for. I know where the transfer switch is, and it's not easy to access - my power cord is in the box, and the transfer switch is against the back wall with about an 8" square opening. I can get in there, but it's not easy.

Is there anything I can check on the inside?

I don't have a surge protector in coach - and my house batteries show plenty of power, so I didn't think they were the issue.

Thanks for your help guys, I really appreciate it.

[focker]

I agree with 007 on both counts, there is almost no way the batteries would cause a problem with shore power nor should they be "old" at 36 months.

I also concur on checking your transfer switch.
You should unplug all shore power, open the box and check all connections that your wires are screwed into, they do become loose. I had a problem where I wasn't loosing power but was making an occasional loud clicking noise and after a call to tech support at Progressive Dynamics it was diagnosed that the unit was going bad so I replaced it.

["007"]

You will have to cut off the power to coach place the fridge on LP gas and the control works off the 12v anyhow,
The screws in the load center you will see when you remove the cover most of the wiring is solid conductor just check the screws for tightness and tighten if necessary
In the transfer switch your going to find the solid wires from load center and the Gen & shore power cables and these wires will be stranded and stranded wires under screws will flatten over time and become loose from vibration and changes in heat and cold.
Dependent on what type of TS you have the relay contacts will be on both sides of relay coil and you can carefully run a dollar bill through the contacts while gently pushing the armature closed and the bill will clean the contacts as you draw the bill through the contacts.
In this link you will find info on TS units your doing maintenance that some of us will do periodically you have a house on wheels and things will loosen up over time on some of the good roads we have. You will find links of different TS switch's and wiring diagrams to help you in link provided.
If you do not feel comfortable checking these locations ask a friend or may need to go to dealer but chech him out as he does work.

[RichK]

Thanks OO7! I feel pretty comfortable doing such things - I installed the EMS myself, etc.. I've never taken the transfer switch apart, but figure it's straightforward as most electronics are, so I'll go do so now. We did drive over VERY bumpy roads getting here - the stretch between New Orleans and Houston on i10 could use a lot of work - so I'm sure something must have come loose. I'll let you guys know what I find, and thanks again for your help. You saved me $200+ in batteries (not to mention replacing perfectly good batteries), and I appreciate that immensely!

["007"]

You may have to remove the large 50 amp circuit breaker in load center to get the screws behind it.

[Dr4Film]

RichK,

I'd like to know what brand of transfer switch you now have.

There are some good ones BUT more important there is also one specific brand that is an accident waiting to happen. Monaco had issued a recall on those back some years ago.

What other coach makers did is another story.

Dr4Film ----- Richard

[RichK]

Originally Posted by "007"

You may have to remove the large 50 amp circuit breaker in load center to get the screws behind it.

You mean on the main circuit breaker panel? I can get in behind it by removing a drawer on the wall that's 90 degrees to the breaker panel to check that everything is tight.

[RichK]

Originally Posted by Dr4Film

RichK,

I'd like to know what brand of transfer switch you now have.

There are some good ones BUT more important there is also one specific brand that is an accident waiting to happen. Monaco had issued a recall on those back some years ago.

What other coach makers did is another story.

Dr4Film ----- Richard

It's a Parallax Power Supply model ATS-301. I believe that's a good unit?

[RichK]

Ok - I checked the transfer switch - no burned wiring, and everything looked good EXCEPT one of the wires - the white wire coming in from the shore power/plug side - wasn't tight. It wasn't loose exactly, but definitely not making as good a connection as it could have been. I checked all the wires - literally pulled them and made sure they were all centered and tight - then re-tightened everything, so hopefully that was the culprit. Beyond that, I'll check the circuit board and make sure those are all tight as well. At least I know what to look for in the future, and thanks for your help everyone!

[Dr4Film]

Regardless of whether that was the problem, a loose neutral wire can be very problematic and costly. Consider it a blessing in disguise that you found and tighten it up.

The brand of your transfer switch is a good one so no worries there.

Dr4Film ----- Richard

[Tom-NC]

Hi,

I agree with everything said however I would check the 30 amp receptacle on the post and make sure it is not broken or burnt and then check your own 30 amp plug that it is not tarnished or burnt and that it looks tight.