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Notayurt · 12-05-2016, 07:01 PM

Please forgive me for posting about my RV refrigerator fix. I know, I know—there are many other posts that describe this exact same solution to propane problems with RV refrigerators. But post this I will, as I can't believe how simple the problem was to fix, and I may help others who are having a similar problem.

Our RV refrigerator never worked great in our used coach. It would do OK, not great, on shore power but would fault out with a “check” light after only a few minutes when running on propane.

When the refrigerator finally breathed its last on A/C power, we had a new dinosaur board installed which fixed the A/C operation like no one's business. But the propane side still had problems. It would light up, burning for a few minutes and then go into “check” mode.

What to do? If it works on A/C, it should work on a flame! Checking forums and youtube suggested a thorough cleaning. Can something so simple be he answer? So, what to lose? I had to take the surrounding outer bezel off the side of the coach along with the access cover to get enough room to get to the refrigerator's flame stack and burner tube.

Getting it apart, it didn't look too cruddy. I banged on the stack, discharging some rusty particles, but nothing that seemed like enough to cause the refrigerator to fail to operate.

Wrong. While it didn't seem like the crud that was in the stack and around the burner tube was all that bad, it was enough to cause the refrigerator to go into “check” mode and shut down the burner. Cleaning it up fixed the problem. So simple. I didn't want to believe it, but I was just plain wrong.

So, if your refrigerator isn't working well (or not at all) on propane, it may be just dirty. Hard to believe, but a few rust particles or soot buildup is enough to shut down the propane side of the operation. Hope this helps those of you with a similar problem.

tinstar 1114 · 12-05-2016, 09:25 PM

I had the exact problem with my new to me coach. Worked fine on elec. but just wouldn't work on propane. I wasn't as reluctant that being the problem as you so I took my air chuck and blew out the burner. Viola, it worked fine first try afterward.

ModestMonk · 12-06-2016, 06:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Notayurt

Please forgive me for posting about my RV refrigerator fix. I know, I know—there are many other posts that describe this exact same solution to propane problems with RV refrigerators. But post this I will, as I can't believe how simple the problem was to fix, and I may help others who are having a similar problem.

Our RV refrigerator never worked great in our used coach. It would do OK, not great, on shore power but would fault out with a “check” light after only a few minutes when running on propane.

When the refrigerator finally breathed its last on A/C power, we had a new dinosaur board installed which fixed the A/C operation like no one's business. But the propane side still had problems. It would light up, burning for a few minutes and then go into “check” mode.

What to do? If it works on A/C, it should work on a flame! Checking forums and youtube suggested a thorough cleaning. Can something so simple be he answer? So, what to lose? I had to take the surrounding outer bezel off the side of the coach along with the access cover to get enough room to get to the refrigerator's flame stack and burner tube.

Getting it apart, it didn't look too cruddy. I banged on the stack, discharging some rusty particles, but nothing that seemed like enough to cause the refrigerator to fail to operate.

Wrong. While it didn't seem like the crud that was in the stack and around the burner tube was all that bad, it was enough to cause the refrigerator to go into “check” mode and shut down the burner. Cleaning it up fixed the problem. So simple. I didn't want to believe it, but I was just plain wrong.

So, if your refrigerator isn't working well (or not at all) on propane, it may be just dirty. Hard to believe, but a few rust particles or soot buildup is enough to shut down the propane side of the operation. Hope this helps those of you with a similar problem.

Was there any way to perceive or understand how the crud was built up? Was it dust was it rust, was it moisture laden air being burned in the proximity? If it wasn't something obvious it sounds like a routine maintenance schedule needs to be made. Any recommendations?

macnut · 12-06-2016, 07:14 AM

I have always had the burner blown out each year and have never had problems with the frig. Glad to hear it makes a difference! :-)

Polyian · 12-06-2016, 07:25 AM

Surface rust in the chimney stack is common in the Pacific North West due to the damp climate. Years ago I had a problem with the gas burner not operating and a local RV technician told me to buy a can of keyboard air and blow out the burner orifice. Apparently the rust builds up as the RV sits in the damp and then shakes loose when the rig gets moved. Never had another problem since I have been blowing out the burner area occasionally. Just another preventative maintenance item.

MSHappyCampers · 12-06-2016, 12:44 PM

I had a problem with mine not getting hot enough on LPG. I called Dave Force with RV Cooling Unit Warehouse. I told him that the blue flame looked OK, but he said that didn't mean much. He asked how loud the sound was when it was burning. He said I should hear a pretty loud roar. He advised me to remove the orifice, soak it in 90% alcohol for four hours, then blow it out with compressed air. I did that, and you would not believe the crud that came out!

I reinstalled it and then I knew what he meant by "roar". I could hear it roaring from several feet away! After that, the fridge cooled on LP just as good as on AC!