Free 7 Day Trial RV GPS App RV Trip Planner Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Free 7 Day Trial ×
RV Trip Planning Discussions

Go Back   iRV2 Forums > RV SYSTEMS AND TECHNOLOGIES FORUMS > RV Systems & Appliances
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 01-24-2014, 11:47 AM   #1
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 65
Question about battery bank system and length of wire to purchase

Attached is a diagram of the wiring that the RV place going to install along with my batteries and inverter.

Question I have, is the length of positive and negative wire. I'll be using 1 ott wire and am buying the wire, batteries, and inverter from the Inverstore.com.

My drawing shows the positive wire being really short and the negative wire being really long. They said it's better if the lead wires are close to the same length.

How would I draw the wiring so the lead wires would be around the same length.
Can move the negative wire from battery #1 to battery #8 so both leads are around the same length or will that mess up the wiring.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	24v system jpeg.jpg
Views:	110
Size:	269.1 KB
ID:	54569  
Jasper7821 is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 01-24-2014, 12:49 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
Old Bounder's Avatar
 
Fleetwood Owners Club
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,636
You could move the negative to battery #5 but not to #8. Your distances aren't so long that it will matter much.

Out of curiosity, why did you choose 24V as your system? Seems to me you could get the same, or better, efficiency from a 12V arrangement, and still maintain some compatibility with your existing 12V requirements.

By the way, it doesn't matter how you draw the diagram, if you want the cables to be the same length, just MAKE them the same length.
__________________
'97 Bounder 34V, F53 7.5L-460
Old Bounder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2014, 01:14 PM   #3
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 65
Quote:
Originally Posted by loulong View Post
You could move the negative to battery #5 but not to #8. Your distances aren't so long that it will matter much.

Out of curiosity, why did you choose 24V as your system? Seems to me you could get the same, or better, efficiency from a 12V arrangement, and still maintain some compatibility with your existing 12V requirements.

By the way, it doesn't matter how you draw the diagram, if you want the cables to be the same length, just MAKE them the same length.
Thanks,
I was told by the RV place and the inverter store that a 24v system would be more efficient and can also use thinner wire so it would be less. I have no clue on battery/inverter systems so I just went with what they told me to do.

And your last sentence says if I want the lead cables the same length then just make them that. But you said the negative cable cannot go to battery #8 which is the only way the lead cable length can be close to the same.
So I don't fully understand your last sentence.
Thanks
Jasper7821 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2014, 01:17 PM   #4
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 188
What you have there will work, the length of the cable's will be fine. BUT, I would strongly recommend making a change.

I would not have the jumper between battery's 4 & 8 (positive) and jumper between 1 & 5 (negative)

In turn I would have the cross jumper (12v to 24v) between battery 4 & 5. Negitive would come off of battery 1, & Positive would come off of battery 8. If your needing ANY 12v then a battery equalizer will be needed.

The way your drawing is, you wont be discharging or recharging the bank properly as you've given current 2 ways to flow.

If you need help let me know, I've designed many 24v systems, and any time you can go 24v it's always better as long as it's wired correctly.

Jim Lewis
Infinity Coach
InfinityJim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2014, 01:26 PM   #5
Senior Member
 
jimbo2013's Avatar
 
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 1,708
But then if you build it 24V unless you change everything inside to 24V don't you have to convert it back to 12V.

Doing that isn't there a loss of power?

Or are you suggesting a 24V battery bank with a 24V input to the inverter and the inverter outputs 12v

??????
__________________
Newmar Ventana 3933 | Miata close behind
1,060 Watts of Solar | 8 T-105 RE Batteries | Outback controls
HR 38 Endeavor
jimbo2013 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2014, 01:38 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
Old Bounder's Avatar
 
Fleetwood Owners Club
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,636
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jasper7821 View Post
Thanks,
I was told by the RV place and the inverter store that a 24v system would be more efficient and can also use thinner wire so it would be less. I have no clue on battery/inverter systems so I just went with what they told me to do.

And your last sentence says if I want the lead cables the same length then just make them that. But you said the negative cable cannot go to battery #8 which is the only way the lead cable length can be close to the same.
So I don't fully understand your last sentence.
Thanks
Your diagram depicts two strings of 6V batteries in a 24V configuration. One string on top and one string on the bottom. Your positive lead MUST hook to the POS terminal on batteries #4 or #8, and your negative lead on the neg terminal of batteries #1 or #5. Anything else and you would not get the desired result.

Your "RV place" is correct that smaller wires are required in a 24V system, because the currents are lower in a higher voltage circuit. However, since you still require 12V in many places in your RV, you either need additional batteries with a second charging system, or a different cabling arrangement of the batteries, as stated by InfinityJim.

I would bet that any money you save in smaller cables will be needed to pay for the 24V Inverter/Charger and the solution to your 12V needs. JMHO

Cables can be made any length. If they are the same physical length, they will be the same electrical length, even if the actual distance from point A to point B is different. Pretty simple.
__________________
'97 Bounder 34V, F53 7.5L-460
Old Bounder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2014, 02:14 PM   #7
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 65
Sorry I didn't explain better in the original post.
I'm having a 14ft concession trailer built and everything operates on 110v.
And the 12v inverter/charger is the same price as the 24v inverter/charger.
I planned on getting a pure sine wave like these. As you can see the 4kw one in 24v is the same price as 12v. Also the inverter store said that its better to go from 24v to 110v than 12v to 110v. And with the 24v I can use 1 ott wre and they said with the 12v system I would need to use 4 ott wire which is way larger diameter.
Pure Sine Inverter | The Inverter Store
Jasper7821 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2014, 02:26 PM   #8
Senior Member
 
jackfish's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Rural Independence, OR
Posts: 951
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jasper7821 View Post
Sorry I didn't explain better in the original post.
I'm having a 14ft concession trailer built and everything operates on 110v.
And the 12v inverter/charger is the same price as the 24v inverter/charger.
I planned on getting a pure sine wave like these. As you can see the 4kw one in 24v is the same price as 12v. Also the inverter store said that its better to go from 24v to 110v than 12v to 110v. And with the 24v I can use 1 ott wre and they said with the 12v system I would need to use 4 ott wire which is way larger diameter.
Pure Sine Inverter | The Inverter Store
There you go!
__________________
2013 Leisure Travel Vans Unity U24MB, 635 watts solar, 440 AH batteries, 2000 watt inverter, Koni struts and shocks, Hellwig rear anti-swaybar, SumoSprings front and back, 2012 Hyundai Accent SE, Blue Ox baseplates, Aladdin towbar and Patriot
jackfish is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2014, 02:31 PM   #9
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 164
Thanks to "Handybob", here is 1 way to do it (note the heat shrink color code):

__________________
1998 Kit 23' TT, 210 AH, PM4B-45, RV-30S PWM, 280w solar, Trimetric, Wave 3, Samlex PST-150w
2004 Nissan Titan 4x4 with Tow, Hellwig helper springs, Banks Catback
BendOR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2014, 02:48 PM   #10
Senior Member
 
Old Bounder's Avatar
 
Fleetwood Owners Club
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,636
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jasper7821 View Post
Sorry I didn't explain better in the original post.
I'm having a 14ft concession trailer built and everything operates on 110v.
And the 12v inverter/charger is the same price as the 24v inverter/charger.
I planned on getting a pure sine wave like these. As you can see the 4kw one in 24v is the same price as 12v. Also the inverter store said that its better to go from 24v to 110v than 12v to 110v. And with the 24v I can use 1 ott wre and they said with the 12v system I would need to use 4 ott wire which is way larger diameter.
Pure Sine Inverter | The Inverter Store
Having all the facts sure makes a big difference. Sounds like you are well on your way.
__________________
'97 Bounder 34V, F53 7.5L-460
Old Bounder is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
battery, purchase



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
ORIGINAL Part #1 & #2 "QUICK TIPS" & "EASY MODS" "007" Newmar Owner's Forum 113 03-25-2018 06:51 PM
Damon Coach battery issue ohsomanytoys Class A Motorhome Discussions 8 01-25-2014 03:58 PM
Water Filter Cartridge FLSteve Newmar Owner's Forum 43 09-25-2013 11:19 AM

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:57 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.